Cb360 Reassembly Help

Exhaust kit is a decent price. Diameter is a bit big but will work on 360. You may need a larger secondary main jet, 117.5~122.5. Don't know what happened to sync screw spring, was OK when fitted. I still don't have definitive angles for operating arms, you may need a small round file to modify the opening depth as I found they do not always line up even close, around 1mm or more different length. The pictures Trek posted above show arms pretty much parallel. I don't know if the production variations are causing problem? Be very careful if you try and bend arms, the shafts are brass and can easily break. I support the flat plate with a small channel lock when adjusting angles
 
The spring I think was just old? The bottom piece broke when it binded (don't think that is a word), but its not a big deal at all. The one from fastenal's spring stiffness was a bit to much, made turning the screw difficult so I opted for the tractor part. Works pretty much perfectly. I am enjoying ironing out all the small issues on this thing, I see why you guys do it so much.

Hey advco, thank you for that link. Do you guys have any particular type of steel that would be best? Is cb360 exhaust a 1.25" od? I measured mine, maybe I just don't remember correctly.
 
Also... stainless or just plain aluminized?
My welding skills are sub par, but thats what practice is for. And I only have the mig set up for my miller multimatic, Is welding stainless with mig an acceptable thing?
 
cb360j said:
The spring I think was just old? The bottom piece broke when it binded (don't think that is a word), but its not a big deal at all. The one from fastenal's spring stiffness was a bit to much, made turning the screw difficult so I opted for the tractor part. Works pretty much perfectly. I am enjoying ironing out all the small issues on this thing, I see why you guys do it so much.

Hey advco, thank you for that link. Do you guys have any particular type of steel that would be best? Is cb360 exhaust a 1.25" od? I measured mine, maybe I just don't remember correctly.
Click to expand...

I can't remember, I think its all 1.5" tube. I used mild steel and painted it on the 2-into-1 I made.
 
Mild steel uncoated is easiest to weld. Aluminised will remove oxegen as it's heated. I've used it but don't reallylike it (unless it's free from dumpster ;) )
 
Based on this photo do you guys think I would benefit by going to a more rear positioned shifter and brake pedal? When riding at first for a few minutes I will get some cramps in my hips, then I stretch my legs out and they go away. Sitting back on the seat relieves this pretty well, but I think this brat seat is just so low it is inevitable, sorta like sitting on a big harley with mid controls type of cramps. The only concern with rear sets, is I ride on back roads pretty much predominantly... a lot of gravel which means I can go a little sideways in turns fairly easily cause I like to imagine I am a cool flat track racer, and that makes me drop a foot when needed. Would rear sets be harder to recover from when I start drifting like this? I am 6'1" for reference.
 

Attachments

  • Junk 1.jpg
    Junk 1.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 454
Leaned over with rear sets is a less stable position. You benefit on terrain like that from being more upright. Dirt bike seats are long and have that front horn for moving back and forth on the seat as needed for balance and grip. Move your ass back to get weight shifted to the rear wheel on an incline, move your ass forward to load up the front, etc. Being good and upright and able to squeeze the tank with your thighs is a good, stable way to take twisties. You'll probably benefit from dropping your pegs to accommodate your height.
 
Would getting a set of higher bars help as well? Higher and wider more specifically.
 
I think so. The wider your handlebars, the "slower" your turning since you are lengthening your turning radius. But, you are more stable. When I raced mountain bikes, I tended to cut a couple of inches off the ends of my bars to give me quicker steering on trails at higher speeds. The downfall was much less stable steering on roadways and straightaways, especially at high speeds. You might want to consider an ATV bar, which has a taller rise than the MX bars.

bars2.jpg
 
Word, thank you very much. I have a few sets of bars I am going to try before I order some new ones.
If I get the chance today, I am going to try and draw up a set of foot pegs that would mount in the same location, but go lower than stock position. Then have them made on the rapid prototype(if 6 hours is considered rapid) to test fitment.
 
If your riding mainly dirt roads slightly lower rearward footrests will be a good idea in view of your height. I managed to get a set of CB400f footrest hangers (took a while, they are pretty rare, one from Canada, forget where other came from either USA or Britain?) Your a couple of inches taller than me and I find 360 bit low in the seat for off road. A taller thicker seat would be a real good idea but of course it would ruin look when parked. Moving footrests slightly further back will make it easier to control front end when 'drifting' (looks and feels great when it works, sucks when you high-side off a pothole ;) ) As for changing bars, best way I've found for height and position is to block bike upright, sit on it in 'best' position, raise arms above your head, close eyes and lower hands/arms to where they feel right. You'll need helper to measure width and height from top yoke. It won't be perfect but is a good starting point., being centralised on a 'real' dirtbike makes life simpler, you can always adjust for riding style after basic set up, generally tilt bars slightly is enough
 
I have those Pro Taper ATV High rise bars on my KLR - absolutely love them. I have a different ride than you, sure, but I'm a similar height and never liked the lower, narrower Moose bars I had on there before. I feel stable, planted and totally comfortable.
 
Do those pro taper bars actually have a taper? As in, are they thicker at the grips than at the mounting points?


And just because I may not have expressed it enough, to anyone that has chimed in and given advice or helped in anyway id like to say thank you. Yall are some cool dudes.
 
My bars are from the SE range (SE = Seven Eighths, the thickness of the bar). No contour, but the SE range seems to have the widest selection of bends, and the only one I could find with the ATV High bend. They also make contoured bars (the EVO and Contour, maybe others) which are thicker (1⅛" at the clamp) but tapered to the grip. Good luck man, choosing bars can be a bit of a ballache!
 
Jimbonaut said:
My bars are from the SE range (SE = Seven Eighths, the thickness of the bar). No contour, but the SE range seems to have the widest selection of bends, and the only one I could find with the ATV High bend. They also make contoured bars (the EVO and Contour, maybe others) which are thicker (1⅛" at the clamp) but tapered to the grip. Good luck man, choosing bars can be a bit of a ballache!
Click to expand...

Yeah it kinda is proving to be. I hate all the bars I currently have (all stock). And I don't want to order something and then not like it lol
 
Here's an eyeball on how the ATV High bend looks on my ride -

ZbZzCGe.jpg


uW6o6Sg.jpg


Next time I'm in the garage I can take a measurement of the end to end. They're wide, I know that. I'm fairly broad shouldered and felt too cramped with the Moose bars I had on there before, and these things are nice and high too without being ludicrous. They're good mate.
 
In the mean time of waiting for parts to arrive, I decided I wanted to make a leather tool roll. Just for the essentials when I break down on this machine, cause I Will.
 

Attachments

  • BBCF8DDC-EE77-421B-B033-34D89182E615.jpeg
    BBCF8DDC-EE77-421B-B033-34D89182E615.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 160
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom