1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)

Since you have the plugs out, stick your finger over the hole. When it wants to blow your finger off the hole, you'll know you're on the compression stroke. Then, go to your mark.
 
Easiest and quickest way Ive found to adjust static timing.
1. set the gap on left point to open spec distance. I start at either .12 or .14. I think specs say 12-16.

2. next, use your light or I prefer to use meter. Rotate plate til Left opens on LF exactly. snug plate down & rotate engine counterclockwise

3. Then without using your feeler gauge. Simply, tweak right point gap until it opens exactly on L, it should "automatically" fall within .12-16 specs.

If right turns out to be more or less than 12-16, start over w step 1. This time set Left to open either .12 OR .16 gap...repeat steps 2 & 3.

If you adjust Left throughout the .12 -.16 range, opening exactly on LF and find you just cant get Right within spec opening on L, replace worn points.

If points are set less than .12 they will remain closed to long allowing the coil to heat up and fry. (not enough cool down time between charging cycles)

If open beyond .16 the coils will have less time to charge = weak spark.

Step 4, start bike put your strobe on it and adjust plate for proper operation. Recheck gaps. done.
 
rsjudka said:
I don't have anything to test the battery, but I'm going to take the battery the Auto Zone to get it tested. And if they say the battery is good, then I'll rent a tester and test on the bike.

So when the bike idles the ticking is gone, but with any pull on the throttle the ticking comes back. I've watched a few cb360 test ride videos on youtube and the ticking can sometimes be heard, is that normal?

For the timing adjustment, you first check left side on the compression stroke at the LF mark then rotate 180° to the F mark, or would you first rotate a whole revolution and then go to the F mark?


You can get a multi-meter that's good enough for checking electrics for about $5.00 so not having a tester is poor excuse. Load testing isn't really needed, if yu use electric starter about 4~5 times then it won't hold high enough voltage to crank and spark on 6~7 attempt, battery is shot. (takes around 60 amps to get motor started spinning then less than 40A to keep it spinning)

The crank turns twice for the cam to turn one full360 degree rotation. TDC comes up twice, onece with both valves closed, once with both valves slightly open (intake is opening exhaust is closing)

The best way to find actual TDC C (compression) is to watch intake valve go down then as it comes up your getting the correct position to do valve adjustment or ignition timing. It's quicker to just watch valve on each cylinder than messing around nd getting timing marks right but on wrong rotation
 
So I went a got a multimeter and at idle the test reads 12v and while revving the highest it went up to was ~12.6v

However, I was unable to start the bike using the electric starter, I had to kick start it.

Is it time for a battery replacement? Regulator/rectifier upgrade? Both?
 
Possibly both. I'd try the battery first. Sometimes a dead battery can suck a lot of juice out of your system, which causes an overall voltage drop.
 
So I re-did my timing adjustment because I don't feel like I did it right the first time based on what trek said. I'm pretty sure I've taken a step backwards because one of the mufflers is getting hot (and a clean spark plug) while the other one is staying cold (and a carbon fouled spark plug). Is there any way to know you set the timing "correctly"?

Because I re-did the timing, does that mean the carbs need to be resynced again? :'(

And on the topic of the battery, I can get the bike to start up about 3 times (bike only idles for about 5 seconds then dies) using the electric starter, then after that its dead. Is the battery done?
 
Not necessarily. Sounds like you're not running it very long before you start it the next time.
 
Also forgot to mention, after I did the timing adjustment I tested with the multi meter at idle and while revving and it was reading 11 and around 11.3 respectively
 
Voltages are low but battery may recover with a decent charge. Needs 48~72 hrs at a low amperage (1amp or slightly less)
Check various 'wall warts' you already have to see if any are 12v 6~800 milliamps then connect it up for a few days.
Batteries charge in two ways, surface charge where you have the surface of plates holding a voltage and deep charge where the entire 'body' of plate is holding voltage and full amperage. Battery should be around 13.2 volts when fully charged and stay at that voltage at least 24 hrs (may be slightly higher initially, up to 14V is OK)
It's always interesting to check cranking voltage. If battery is good it won't drop below 12v. If OK but on the way out, around 11~11.5
Lower than 10v cranking means battery is definitely on the way out although not using electric start could easily get you another year or so out of it.
You need a fully charged battery to be able to do proper charging checks (although I would check rectifier connections, in block and at unit).
 
Thanks for all the info about batteries PJ. So I was charging my battery and about 30 minutes into the charge my whole garage smelled like that rotten egg smell, so I'm just going to replace the battery to be on the safe side.

Before that, I did redo my points adjustment (3 times now) and synced my carbs.

It idles alot better now, also feel full power while idling.

However, when I take it out for a ride, anything past 1/2 throttle open has no power.
 
rsjudka said:
It idles alot better now, also feel full power while idling.

However, when I take it out for a ride, anything past 1/2 throttle open has no power.

CV carbs on the 360, so throttle position has little to no meaning.

At what rpm does it seem to lose power? between 2500 and 5000rpm?
 
Did you check timing w a strobe to ensure you get full advance at 3000rpm?
 
First get your electrical sorted and buttoned up. Then...

Pics From the workshop manual.

11494-150614084923-391856.jpeg

11494-150614084924-4001232.jpeg


As engine rpm increases the advancer (located behind points plate) will cause the ignition to advance, keeping sparkplugs firing when they need to. Otherwise it will overheat and/or lack power.

Around 3000 rpm, the timing mark on the stator should fall on or between the 2 advance marks. (no more, no less) As shown above.

If it doesnt you will need to service, repair or replace advancer.

11494-130714073507-4591987.jpeg


This can ONLY be checked using a stroboscopic timing light.
https://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html

Static timing is nothing more than a way to initially get the bike started and running. Then you MUST fine tune the timing w a strobe light in order to get it dialed in to running properly.
 
If its in the advancer. Most likely old sticky grease or worn springs. If its the springs (stretched and loose fitting), sometimes you can cut a coil out and bend the next coil to fit. Or just disassemble clean and re-grease.
 
So I set the timing gap with the strobe, but I don't understand how I would fine tune it for the advancer marks.

Am I doing this with the points cover and alternator cover off? And since the bike is on and revving, won't the stator be moving too fast for me to see it?

I'm assuming this whole procedure is in the manual?
 
trek97 said:
If its in the advancer. Most likely old sticky grease or worn springs. If its the springs (stretched and loose fitting), sometimes you can cut a coil out and bend the next coil to fit. Or just disassemble clean and re-grease.
Well I have inspected the advancer before when I replaced the seal behind it but it seemed in good condition and didn't seem stiff or worn
 
I think your confusing a 'timing light' (12v bulb with some clips) and a 'timing light' (12v strobe connected to ignition left or right depending on which cylinder your checking)
You need some way to have bike leaning to right or oil will run out when you remove generator cover (I put a piece of 1" thick wood under left leg of centre stand)
'Strobe' is connected to bike battery and 'thick lead' to spark plug.
The flash in sync with rotation allows you to see the timing marks on a running engine (same way a fluorescent tube can sometimes show spinning fan blades as stationary)
You use timing plate and points gap to get ignition timing 'spot on' and always check higher rpm by slowly opening throttle to see marks 'move' to full advance position.
Cheap timing light from Harbor Freight works as well as anything else out there, you don't need a 'professional' one (unless your going to start doing this 8 hrs a day?)
 
Actually the manual says very little about this procedure if memory serves.

A very important procedure, to make her run properly.
 
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