I bought Kris's rearsets myself and they are excellent. I find the gear shifter toe peg a little too short because I'm still using the stock muffler and pipes on a CL350 scrambler, which force a wide left leg straddle (much further out than on a CB or even a CL with shorties). Kris is sending a spacer up so I can get the peg further out and hence avoid the uncomfortable ankle rotation to upshift.
I ended up using the original rear brake switch in a different location and made it work to light up. I find it important in city traffic to be able to use it. To accomplish this I drilled two holes in the metal of the tool holder (not quite level, but offset to allow the switch to be at an angle), then laced through a zip-tie. Then, after some experimentation, I dremeled a groove in the plastic housing of the switch to allow the zip tie to sit in it; this stops the whole assembly from sliding down even with very strong pedal force.
I also re-used the original brake control spring, attached at the top of the rearset tab (where it connects to the frame), so the brake pedal is always in the same initial position and doesn't flop around.
I ended up electing to have the brake arm at the drum close to its original position (i.e. down) rather than having to grind the splines and have it upright. It meant that I had to slightly bend the all-thread brake rod -- it's not a perfect pull (under load the rod can try to straighten a bit rather than transfer the force to the brake itself) but it still works fine and I can still lock up the rear if I choose to do so. Any more force than that isn't required.
Pics here:
http://www.flickr.com/honda_cl350k4
Cheers,
phaetn
