Custom Rear Sets

Hey All!

I've put together rear sets much like these:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=7401.0
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=7970.15

and they're working great. The only issue is that, as my bike is a CX500, I need a way to change the direction of the force.

All is working great, except that the ball bearing on the linkage isn't holding the best. At first it popped off pretty easily when I was downshifting (just weakened over time), so I used jb-weld (kwik-weld) to build up a bit of a wall around it to stop it falling out. This held quite well until the bike almost took a spill, and my foot must have kicked it, and off it popped. SO, I'm trying to figure out a better way of seating the bearing, or a better way of setting up the linkage (to not put so much directional force). I can obviously use real jb-weld, but I'm still feeling that this isn't up to the task, and trying to figure out if there's an alternative.

I have spare aluminum stock (1/4" 6061), so I can make a different form of linkage, and I'm open to any ideas.

I know this is a noob question and there's probably a perfect thing built just for this purpose. Thank you all! My shitty picture of my current setup is below:

Eeep. Does the site hate imgur?

Here's the inspiration example:

Here's a horrible picture of the test setup for the current build

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Bump

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Hey! Anybody have any input on this? I could definitely use any advice you guys have!

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Going to need some better pics...

But I can see right off the bat that the angles are a bit off.

Get some better photos to show what's happening and we'll be able to help you more.

Thank you thank you thank you. I'll get some early in the morning

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Let me know if you need more!!!

IMHO, looks like way too much going on to work well. The length between where the shifter rotates and where the linkage is attached should be the same length as length between where the shift shaft rotates and where the linkage attaches. A direct route from the shifter to the shift shaft would be ideal.

Ah, completely agreed, but the angle has to change. On the CX the shift shaft is just straight up and down, rather than back/forward.

Honestly it's been workin great, the only issue is that the bearing doesn't stay seated. I need somethin a little sturdier.

ALSO, hello, fellow Seattlite. I'm shocked I haven't seen your beauty of a bike around. You go to backfire much?

Native Seattlite, but I'm back in Phoenix after 2.5 years in Boston and NYC. I go back to Seattle twice a year, and have a '75 550K up there parked at my dad's place that I've owned for 25 years that I zip around on. I know Todd and some of the Backfire guys, my trips have just never coincided with the right night. Maybe this summer -- gonna be up in June.

Hey All!

Just bumping this post - still having no luck solving this linkage issue, and the jb weld is definitely not cutting it. All it needs is some way to mount it on the rod that will allow it to spin. Ball bearing worked fantastically, but didn't stay seated in its housing.

I'm thinking there either has to be a type of ball bearing that has a way to be solidly mounted to the housing, rather than just inserted, OR there's something else that isn't a ball bearing, that has edges on each side, allowing the lever to rotate, but still keeping it secured upright.

I have bolt-on kits available for the CX now.

Also, if anyone tries to copy this set-up pictured, you'll find it binds while upshifting. I made some changes to the final design.

Here are some additional pictures. As you can see, I just need a way to keep the damned bearings in the lever. J-Rod, any advice on either an alternative method (maybe no bearing and something else for it to rotate around?) or a way to keep the damned bearing in there? I feel like I can't be the only one that has had issues of this sort. Also, J-Rod, those sets look amazing, and I know you did a great job on the CB350 sets. I'd totally pick them up if I hadn't already put so much time and heart and soul into mine. Also I'd assume your sets cost a pretty penny (as they should!) and my goal is to keep my CX as cheap as possible for now.

Would absolutely love your advice, though. I'm sure there's a way to do this, and I know that you of all people would be able to speak from experience!

Have you thought about sandwiching the bearing between bigger washers?

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I have, but I assumed that the housing would wobble around the bearing, and would end up with a ton of friction. Might be the next thing I try, though!

you are also going to have a lot of problem with leverage....your lower portion of the arm is WAY longer than the upper
reposition and make a new L-arm that is more equal length if that makes sense.
And you can have it ride on a bushing with just some retainer washers sandwiching it in place