Possibly entering the 378 club!

Check valve tips are hard when you get them, guy over on Honda Twins has had 2 sets of intakes 'pocket' and break. Hasn't had issues with exhausts but still worth checking (just use an old file, if it cuts they are 'soft') I've never seen anything like it and without access to running motor can't be a lot of help as there is always a possibility her's doing something wrong?
 
Thanks for the valve tip PJ, will check when they arrive

In the meantime i’m thinking i should replace the chain tensioner, but i cannot remove it.

The spring loaded arm moves ok, can push it down with a big screwdriver and it springs back up smoothly.

But i cannot pull the tensioner out of the socket in the sprung arm. Photo attached shows what looks like a thread inside the curved end of the tensioner, is it bolted in place ?

Has anyone seen this before?

If it is bolted in place then i’ll have to split the cases if i want to renew the tensioner, how hard is this, looks simple in the manual?
 

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It's bolted in place. Looks like this:

Top part in the pic.
130610d1483572772-cb360-cam-chain-tensioner-holder-img_2821.jpg


Your tensioner is in backwards, which is why it's hanging up.
 
Thanks Irk, but the issue is at the bottom of the tensioner not the top.

Your picture is of the top fastener, mine was taken down the oblong chain hole of the bottom fixing.

From the exploded diagram ( attached) my challenge is getting the tensioner out of the end of the swing arm ( part 10/15)

In my photo there appears to be a thread inside part 10, through the loop in the end of the tensioner, thus preventing it lifting out??
 

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That pic of yours is sort of confusing. What I think I'm looking at in the pic is part 15 in part 10, with the tensioner (part 1) removed. Is this not correct?
 
Yes, You are looking at part 15 in part 10, but part 1 is stuck in and wont lift out.

You can see the tail of the loop on the bottom of part 1, and below that is what looks like a thread.

My problem is that part 1 will not lift out, i have pulled quite hard.....
 
Is that not the broke cam gear bolt stuck in the tensioner arm?

I fear you are going to have to split the case to resolve that.
If you need a spare tensioner arm I have a few.
 
That pic you posted is confusing as all get out.

It looks to me like someone has drilled the cup #10 and ran a bolt through the eye in bottom of the tensioner slide blade.

And also the tab on part #15 is bent downwards rather than up.

Its just weird looking all around.
 
I wonder if MiniatureNinja called it. The cam gear bolt. It makes sense that the chain dragged it down into the tensioner holder and just pounded it in place. Regardless, the tensioner is really hard to figure out by that pic. I'm not seeing the tensioner at all.
 
and BTW, what brand heavy duty clutch springs did you buy, that were lighter wire than the stock springs? :eek:

So, I can avoid buying those myself, later in life.
 
trek97 said:
That pic you posted is confusing as all get out.

It looks to me like someone has drilled the cup #10 and ran a bolt through the eye in bottom of the tensioner slide blade.

And also the tab on part #15 is bent downwards rather than up.

Its just weird looking all around.

that was my thinking but I dont know why the hell someone would do that, or how they would get it back together properly once done - looks like the left side there is a head there but it would rub on the case?
 
Thanks for the comments.

I think it is a bolt that someone has tapped into no10 to ‘secure’ the tensioner through its eye, i agree you can see a slim bolt head in the pics.
Its not the cam sprocket bolts as i have them, and the tensioner would not pull out before my mishap with the sprocket

The clutch springs were ‘walker’ brand from NZ, avoid those!

So.... how much of a job is it to split the cases?
Looks like both side covers off, engine out, undo all the bolts?

Are there any complexities?, i’d hate to have bolts shear or other unforseen problems but think i need to get to the bottom of the cam tensioner.
 
Its really no big deal to split the cases. Pull all the bolts.

Flip it upside down. Pull out the bolts on bottom, Remove bottom case.

Flip it rightside up. As you pull the transmission parts from upside down top case. Flip em and drop em right back in bottom case.

That way you wont get anything confused and turned around.

I didn't bother disassembling or removing kick start shaft from the top case. It will just stay where it needs to be.

If I recall I don't think I had to pull the rotor off the crank either. But the oil cup probably needs to come off. Its been a long time since I did it.

take good pics of the gear shift stuff around and behind the clutch basket.
 
Shouldn't you be able to leave the guts in the upside down top half of the case and just pull the bottom off and then when you fix the tensioner arm, put it back on and bolt together?
 
hmmm. I don't see why you couldn't do that.

But, its been a long time since I opened mine.
 
MiniatureNinja said:
Is that not the broke cam gear bolt stuck in the tensioner arm?

I fear you are going to have to split the case to resolve that.
If you need a spare tensioner arm I have a few.
Hey MiniatureNinja, you wouldnt happen to have a spare cam chain guide i could purchase off you?

Sent from my SM-G930F using DO THE TON mobile app
 
MiniatureNinja said:
Shouldn't you be able to leave the guts in the upside down top half of the case and just pull the bottom off and then when you fix the tensioner arm, put it back on and bolt together?

This will be my approach, minimise disruption and chance of putting it back together incorrectly!

What’s the liklihood of case bolts breaking when i undo them?
Should i reuse old bolts or buy new?
Anything else to worry about?

Steve
 
Sderbyshire said:
This will be my approach, minimise disruption and chance of putting it back together incorrectly!

What’s the liklihood of case bolts breaking when i undo them?
Should i reuse old bolts or buy new?
Anything else to worry about?

Steve

No reason they would break. I use a piece of cardboard and draw a basic outline of the cases as you're looking at it upside down, punch some holes and stick the bolts in so you know where they all go on reassembly.

You will want to take care as there are some retainer pins in a few of the journals that may come with the bottom end and have the possibility to fall out.
 
Unfortunately I do not have a spare guide, the ones I replaced in my current project were original and terrible. I bought the upgrade set from sparkmoto
 
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