81' CM400 top end rebuild
Alrighty, I guess I'll do a write up as I go along so when some other dumbass (only insulting myself) is going back or doing this for the first time they have something to follow along with the factory service manual. Also, If I may not that this can all be done while the engine is in the frame. My bike just happens to be a drive away where it is stored so it's easier to bring it back so I can take my time and piece at it wherever I want.
CRITIQUES AND INPUT WELCOME.
Here is a link to a FREE Factory service manual (FSM)
http://www.mediafire.com/?cnkmdznfjgz
I started off by draining all of the oil and removing the oil filter ( filter was replaced recently, but for $7.00 I'll replace it while I'm doing all this) after I put the drain bolt back in and also the oil filter case .
Next, remove the two valve cover bolts. ( bad picture, sorry)
Then turn the flywheel to "T" which is top dead center to align the cam sprocket bolts horizontally once the rocker arms are removed.
Now remove the 8 head bolts and remove the 2 rocker arm assemblies.
**be sure to not misplace or lose the dowel sleeves **
Proceed in removing the first cam sprocket bolt; rotate 180 degrees with flywheel and remove the other.
Now wiggle, ever so gently on the sprocket forward away from the mount and from here you will slowly remove the cam. Now remove the sprocket and slide a piece of wire to hold the chain up and to keep it from dropping in the case. (All should and will be inspected upon reassembly)
Next to the back of the head to remove the tensioner adjust nut and washer and also the adjuster screw and washer.
Remove the head, head gasket and place the head somewhere safe on a shelf or anywhere where it won't be dropped. At this point the cam chain guide (exhaust side can be removed)
Stuff a shop towel in the center of the head and remove the cotter key from the rear tensioner and pin.
Remove tensioner hardware.
Now I got stuck here for a moment because the cylinder head wouldn't simply pull free like the manual displays. Longdistancerider on hondatwins pointed out the ridges under the bottom to use for gently prying. Below is a pic that he took for someone on another thread. He is pointing it out for you.
Now with the head free, gently remove it from the pistons and be sure to keep ahold of the cam chain. Set the cylinder head somewhere safe. Stuff rags around the rods to avoid foreign objects from entering the engine. I removed the top and middle piston rings and called it quits for today. Cylinder walls look good and will only need a hone from what I can see.(no pitting and no catching when I checked for smoothness).
So here are a few questions. My shotty' paint job is even worse now from the oil leak and am wondering if this part is going smoothly, should I do a full disassemble and have all the cases and heads soda blasted for a clean rebuild? Cause frankly I'm done with paint.
Also, thanks for reading. Hopefully when this thread is complete. It will help some others out someday.