Engine rebuild quote UPDATE

no need to remove the head to check for a bent valve . a compression test willl determine a bent valve . . you can also simply put it on tdc fire position and spray carb cleaner in the ports . if it does not quickly drain out the valves are not bent.
 
Definitely take the head back off. I have my fingers crossed for you. Hopefully no damage.

Next time it goes back together, be sure to gently rotate the engine by using a wrench on the end of the crankshaft. I usually do several full rotations just to make sure nothing is binding. If you feel any serious resistance, STOP. A fresh engine is usually pretty easy to turn over.
 
barnett468 said:
no need to remove the head to check for a bent valve . a compression test willl determine a bent valve . . you can also simply put it on tdc fire position and spray carb cleaner in the ports . if it does not quickly drain out the valves are not bent.
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Piston to valve contact does not always result in a bent valve. Any contact is bad and the only way to verify this for sure is the pull the head. Continuing with a compression test at this point may cause additional damage. Do it right and pull the head.
 
CaferacerMO said:
That's where it lands each time I kick it over
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that means nothing because a bike will rarely if ever land on tdc or with the cam lined up . .. you need to put it on tdc fire stroke and look at the cam timing
 
barnett468 said:
that means nothing because a bike will rarely if ever land on tdc or with the cam lined up . .. you need to put it on tdc fire stroke and look at the cam timing
Click to expand...

+1
 
turrn the engine over until the t on the flywheel is lined up with the mark and the valves are loose on the lft hand cylinder then look at the gear
 
Halfway into pulling the head I get called into work, I'll report later whenever im off.
No metal in the oil so im praying for the best.. Pray for my college tuition.
 
What engine is this again? Shit i cant remember. One foolproof way to be sure you are on the correct stroke before you check the cam timing is to watch the intake rocker go down, come back up, and stop moving. Continue to rotate the flyweel until the timing marks line up. This isnt always easy because once at TDCC the crank will want to continue to rotate past the timing marks. Have the spark plug(s) removed when doing this to avoid cylinder pressure that will want to push the piston back down. Often i will use something to put a little pressure on the flywheel so it doesnt over rotate. If you pass the timing marks on tdcc, dont rotate the engine backwards. Continue around and attempt the procedure again.

The cam rotates once to every 2 crank rotations.

Theres some indication here that you might not fully understand how a four stroke engine works. Please ask for clarification any time something isnt crystal clear to you.
 
Stroke doesn't matter too much so long as the cam and the crank are lined up. TDC is TDC. It's usually easier to do the on the compression stroke with the plug removed, though. Then the rocker arms aren't fighting you.

I believe this is a KZ200.

Also, +1 on the asking part. This is the point in the game where mistakes are very expensive and thoroughly checking and double-checking yourself is absolutely necessary.
 
Oh im clueless.
I'm not afraid to admit that!
I've never actually dug this deep into a motor.
So I'm trying to soak all of this in like a sponge.
I'm going to pull off everything and just start over and following the procedures you guys are giving me.

So as soon as I get home, I'm pulling the head.
Then what?
 
Look over the piston. Check for any damage. Do the same with the valves.

With the valve springs in place, tilt the head on it's side so that the exhaust port is pointing up in the air. Put a tablespoon of acetone (or gasoline) into the port and wait five minutes. You should see zero moisture leaking into the combustion chamber area. Repeat with the intake side.

While you have everything apart, it would be good to check the valve guides. I didn't see if you covered this or not. Remove the valve springs and with the valves open about half an inch, give them a little wiggle. There should be no play in them. If you have a split ball gauge and a micrometer, you can measure and be 100% sure. A good machinist will have these tools if you do not. Specs are in the service manual.

Also... was it you or your friend who installed the new piston? Did you end up with the .5mm over? Did the piston come with new rings?
 
I took my cylinder and piston to the local bike guy, he measured it and honed the cylinder and installed the new rings.
 
CaferacerMO said:
I took my cylinder and piston to the local bike guy, he measured it and honed the cylinder and installed the new rings.
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OK. We'll assume that's good for now. We can check it later if you're still having problems after the rest of the engine goes back together.
 
I have to lifeguard until 9 tonight, I'll run those tests and report back.
Thank you for all of your guys knowledge and insight!
Soaking this all up.
 
To the o.p.

I recommend you start posting LOTS of pictures. Theres a lot of cross talk here. Pictures will help avoid that.

When I left, I was the only person in MMI history to score a perfect 100% across the board in the engine rebuild program. I doubt that has changed. People actually pay me to build their engines. I have more than just a small clue how this shit works
 
DohcBikes said:
To the o.p.

I recommend you start posting LOTS of pictures. Theres a lot of cross talk here. Pictures will help avoid that.

When I left, I was the only person in MMI history to score a perfect 100% across the board in the engine rebuild program. I doubt that has changed. People actually pay me to build their engines. I have more than just a small clue how this shit works
Click to expand...

Will do man.
Again, thank you for your input, Ill post plenty of pictures as I go!
 
No prob. Just keep in mind that most people here have only built one or two engines. Ive built dozens. Regardless of what even I say, you should take this all with a grain of salt and a factory Kawasaki Service Manual in front of you.
 
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