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Some, just replaced that plug, just synced carbs without leaks. But Ill do a WD40 leak test in case.
Haven't looked at the valves though. Ya think a valve needing adjustment could cause a cylinder with a spark not to fire? I don't have experience working on the head admitibly. My garage is a sidewalk...
Haven't looked at the valves though. Ya think a valve needing adjustment could cause a cylinder with a spark not to fire? I don't have experience working on the head admitibly. My garage is a sidewalk...
Absolutely, if it's not scavenging then it's not sucking fuel/air into the chamber. Intake opening too late causes lower fuel/air mixture, too early causes reversion and big power loss. They may not be opening at all. They may be staying open all the time, which could explain the loss of vacuum. You could've bent a valve at high revs too, so maybe it's jammed or leaking beyond the seat.
Some, just replaced that plug, just synced carbs without leaks. But Ill do a WD40 leak test in case.
Haven't looked at the valves though. Ya think a valve needing adjustment could cause a cylinder with a spark not to fire? I don't have experience working on the head admitibly. My garage is a sidewalk...
if your valve adjustment is too tight [no clearance] it will not allow the valve to close . . this will cause lower compression . . if your compression is around 100, it wont run no matter how much spark and fuel you have in it.
if your valve adjustment is too tight [no clearance] it will not allow the valve to close . . this will cause lower compression . . if your compression is around 100, it wont run no matter how much spark and fuel you have in it.
Yes. It is entirely possible that jets or drilling in that carb are clogged. Pop them off and clean the jets and spray carb cleaner through the drillings - try to avoid breathing too much of that stuff though. It's not healthy..
if your valve adjustment is too tight [no clearance] it will not allow the valve to close . . this will cause lower compression . . if your compression is around 100, it wont run no matter how much spark and fuel you have in it.
Deviant mentioned intake leak, so I was referring to spraying the manifold boots with WD40 to check for vacuum leaks.
Makes sense about the valves... I'm going to do a wet/dry compression test before diving into the head for now. I need to grab a torque wrench first anyways. I'm also going to hook up the carb sync if compression is OK...
Yeah, I have an open garage lol. The busy streets of SoHo is no place to wrench, but in nice weather and no tourist questions, I can be productive. And the eye candy... Oh man.
BTW, shes not running as good as when I first posted this thread. When all four cylendars are back in working order again, I'll get back to the original issue. Sorry for the detour!
Yes. It is entirely possible that jets or drilling in that carb are clogged. Pop them off and clean the jets and spray carb cleaner through the drillings - try to avoid breathing too much of that stuff though. It's not healthy..
Yeah, I literally just guitar-stringed a clogged slow jet (f**ing pushed-in pilot jets) on my CB650 today, on the street, without unhooking the cables. Idles like a top now.
My 750 has the same carbs so I'm going to do the similar if my compression are OK.
I didn't have time to do a wet test, but I got in a compression test today to try to resolve my first cylinder not firing issue. It's exhaust is warm while other very hot. The plug is sparking BTW. The results are very confusing and I'm going to do it all over again because of it:
Yep. Being that I've been busy cleaning my 650's rack, and knew I had a clogged slow jet and no time to pull it, so I lazily dumped in some Seafoam last week, and as of a few days ago, blamo!! Running on all 4! I never believe in magic potions but damn that stuff can really surprise you! And make you lazy :/
Now that I'm running all 4, I can finally get back to the fact that my 750 is still my slowest CB. Even slower than my 500...
I notice that the warmer she gets the more typewriter sound effects I hear from the head. That sound means I may need a valve adjustment? Its kind of hard to hear, but listen: https://www.flickr.com/gp/125586034@N04/e8f811 It's not the sound of my cam chain though, been through that. Regardless, perhaps I need to get a torque wrench and cam removal tool and pop her head off?
Other tests piling up are 1) Recheck #2 pressure. (I agree with what ya said that it consistently underestimates it's readings) 2) Pop off the clutch cover and play sprocket dentistry.
hah, no. I don't know what brand the garage put in. I checked the bill and they didn't charge me for it either as it's not itemized. I can call em up when they open tomorrow and ask. Why are so many moto shops and garages closed on Mondays??
hah, no. I don't know what brand the garage put in. I checked the bill and they didn't charge me for it either as it's not itemized. I can call em up when they open tomorrow and ask.
Yeah, it wouldn't hurt to ask . . Shops often use "average" quality oil and there are some oils that don't loose viscosity [get thinner] when they get hot and this type will protect your engine better but they are more expensize then average oil.
Yeah, it wouldn't hurt to ask . . Shops often use "average" quality oil and there are some oils that don't loose viscosity [get thinner] when they get hot and this type will protect your engine better but they are more expensize then average oil.
Yeah, prob good to know! Haven't changed the oil myself on this bike.
Others have ran it and say it should be more ballsy, but could it be possible I'm not pushing it hard enough? I'd love to hear some other gear/rpm/mph reports to compare to mine: 5/4.5/55. It has pods/4-1 BTW.
Others have ran it and say it should be more ballsy, but could it be possible I'm not pushing it hard enough? I'd love to hear some other gear/rpm/mph reports to compare to mine: 5/4.5/55. It has pods/4-1 BTW.
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