CB360 Cafe

Was this thing in the ocean?

frogman: Yeah, I'll put in a call and see if I can't borrow a "master key" from an old coworker. I ended up tapping both of those brass fittings from the the inside of the carb out (wouldn't budge from the inside). I wasn't sure if they were pressed in somehow, so thank you for the info! I also got the diaphragms from a link you posted on hondatwins I believe, so thank you again. Awesome help.

cafematty: That's TMI... (Sorry... haha) Ugh, that sucks. I guess I lucked out with just being able to pull them out with pliers...

66replica: Dude, wth is that? There was just some ruddy buildup that came off with some carb spray and persuasion and it was mostly just in the bowls. How'd you clean them up? Read so many ways... Carb dip, lemon boil, dishwasher? I just did carb spray and toothbrush over and over rinsing in between, then a good few washes in Simple Green and toothbrush and lastly, a good water rinse and then a hose down with WD40 and wipe down with a paper towel. Came out pretty nice. A little Autosol on the brass bits and the rusty choke lever, a drop of oil on pivot points...

That's what happens when there is gas in the bowl since the early 80's. I put them in carb dip for 24 hours then began replacing all the parts. Unfortunately the inner passages were pitted so they were only good for scrap.

Pretty close to finishing up the carbs. Waiting on the new diaphragms and need to paint the covers. Will probably get Duplicolor Engine Enamel in an aluminum color for those and the screws. Everything cleaned up really well. Got everything back together, but I have a question about the throttle linkage. Just want to make sure I have it connected together properly. I'll post some pictures, but my concern is that the left throttle doesn't close all the way now that they are connected. It did just fine before they were linked, so I wanted to make sure I have it together correctly. It looks very adjustable, but I don't really know what to adjust and how.

Sorry my updates are so picture laden, but they always help me when I'm looking at others' builds/questions.

Lots of bugs made this their home








All back together again




Left carb not closing all the way, can see the light coming through...


Right one seems to close fine


Linkage

TheProspector said:

This shows the main nozzle on the right. Just leave it be?

Click to expand...

Nope, they need to come out to clean the cross drilled holes
Use a pencil or similar to push them out from 'top'
You did remove the fuel screws to clean out passage? (lower right in pic)
You also need to assemble the adjuster properly, the spring and one washer goes between the two link bar plates, the other washer is underneath

crazypj: Thank you so much for your help with this. I was hoping you'd stumble upon my build...

I was able to extract the main nozzle with the cross drilled holes. I was afraid to tap it out from the inside without knowing because it looked like it was press-fitted in there. I believe I took out every brass fitting and cleaned them all and installed new washers/rubber gaskets/seals where applicable.

I really appreciate the photo. Thanks to that, I believe I have it installed correctly. Also found a good pic of it on page 20 of the manual. After adjusting, both of the throttle "flaps" (I'm not sure the tech name) close in sync. Thank you!


Is the fuel screw the lower right in this pic? If so, yes.

Yep, adjuster looks correct to me 8)
Fuel screw is lower right, the top one is vacuum plug for syncing
You may need vacuum adapters if your not close to anyone who already bought some? (I'm the only person making them)
The 'flaps' are close enough, butterflies, throttle butterflies or throttle plates are more common term though.
The other side are choke flaps though, don't know why the name changes?

crazypj: Ah, thanks mate.

Just got back from mysta2's house to actually get my hands a little dirty helping him take the motor out of his LoudBike and swap some parts onto another 360 motor he had. Was very cool to help however I could and to be able to see firsthand what everything looks like. It's really nice to have people like him and the other TX guys around, as well as everyone in this forum, so thank you all for your help and patience with my questions.

No new real updates. Waiting on parts and am planning to get the engine out hopefully this week. I did have the compression tested (not 1st hand, but by a shop last Fall) and was told it was low... Also was told by them that the starter made lots of noise, which from reading sounds like a possible starter clutch prob. I do want to keep the starter. So, looks like I will be taking it apart cause I gotta see what's in there! Might also be looking to do any kinda upgrades I can since I'd have things apart. Seeing the cam journal problem mysta2 (and others) have had has me a little nervous... Anyway, any help or recommendations you all might have that've been there, I'll gladly welcome.

Thanks for tuning in!

Great Build man - we will need to meet up and compare bikes when we both get our builds on the road.

Love how well the carbs cleaned up for you. How did you clean the main bodies of the carbs?

vtwin650: Thanks, definitely! I used carb cleaner spray, a toothbrush, Qtips, toothpicks, Simple Green, WD40, a brass bristle brush, and Autosol (just on the bowls and brass pieces).

Quick update... Got my tires in the mail along with new tubes and rim strips. Exciting day for me.


Will probably wait on lacing and building up the wheels until I get a little further with the frame/engine/wiring... Might actually end up being one of the final things I do in preparation to put it all back together.



Also, got my carburetor diaphragm replacements in the mail today from JBM Industries.



Clipped off the old plastic diaphragm surrounds and cleaned up the channels before installing the new ones from JBM.






Installed them, but wanted to verify that the two air holes in the bottom of the slide are pointed towards the intake side of the carb (towards the choke valves)?




I also was able to get off the rust on the top covers off with a brass brush and wet sanding (though the right one is pretty pitted from rust) and painted them, the choke lever, and screws with Rustoleum Engine Enamel in Aluminum color. Not too sure how I feel about the light color of it on top of the darker carb body color... Thoughts? Maybe a darker color?

if you fussy (like me) you could always use a little fine surface filler to get rid of the rust indentations on that top.
colour i think is fine!

pugeyed: Yeah, I'm pretty fussy, but I might just call those "done" for now at least. I'd tried some filler primer I had laying around (which did help a little bit), but during the engine enamel curing process the paint bubbled up pretty bad... Had to strip and start over, this time without the primer. (I'm no painter so I had no idea what to expect with the primer, just thought I'd try it since I had it). Thanks for the opinion on the color. It's def grown on me. Pretty easy to change later on too after I see how everything looks once it's together.

Update: Got the engine out today! Huge milestone for me!!




It was a tough job, I'll be honest. I thought that I'd get the screws out of the side covers while the motor was still in the frame so it'd be more secure while I was banging away with the impact driver. Those lil bastards were really stuck... I definitely filled up the swear jar today. Also, I'd like to note that I'll never again buy anything from Harbor Freight. Last year, in anticipation of these engine screws, I trekked out to HF just to see what all they had since I'd never been to one. Came out of there with an impact driver. Never used it until today... It lasted me for maybe all of 5 of the shifter side cover screws... I still had 3 or 4 more to go on that side and still the entire brake side cover! After those 5 screws, I was left with this... What crap.



Anyway, long story short, went to Sears, got a Craftsman impact driver and that thing doesn't have a dent in the fender after beating the hell out of it. Was able to get both side cover bolts off and the bits are still perfect. Will not be cutting costs on tools in the future by going to HF. Even when the screws were totally stripped, it still persuaded them to come out.



So, it was a pretty big day for me.




Sidenote: It's my bday next week (thank you) so I'm taking the opportunity to update my riding gear a bit. I'd won this jacket at one of my wife's 60 mile breast cancer walk fund raisers 2-3 years ago. My $10 in raffle tickets got me an awesome leather jacket that luckily fit perfectly! The only thing is that it's so thick and literally weighs 8 1/2 lbs... Perfect for the colder months, but it was my only riding jacket.



Until this.....
So..... I bought it few nights ago. An old Schott jacket. Excited about it arriving!



Also, last year my family got me a Bell Star Aaron Gobert Replica helmet and this year my wife's upgrading my visor to the Bell Photochromic visor that changes from clear to dark tint based on the UV exposure (like Transitions eyeglasses). I'm really excited about that one. I'll definitely give an update on it if anyone is interested. Dying to try it out! (The box is sitting right over there....)
http://www.bellsports.com/powersports/other-products/shields-visiors/transitions-solfx-clickrelease-shield

Nice riding gear! Also very inspiring considering all of the rust on this little nugget!

Tip: it's easiest to get the engine in/out by laying the bike on the clutch side.

66replica said:

Tip: it's easiest to get the engine in/out by laying the bike on the clutch side.

Click to expand...

*unless it has bars... lol

66replica: Thanks for tip man. The only real hassle with lifting the motor out was that I couldn't get the rear brake lever off... I'm just not sure how to do it... It looks as though the brake lever is welded to the brake pedal pivot shaft (p 32 of our textbooks ). So, I'm not sure how to remove the pivot shaft? I can post a pic if you wanna see. The hardest part was banging those side cover screws loose, but I'm glad I did that before the engine was out. After all that, lifting it out was the easiest part.

Just loosen adjuster at hub end then stick something on/under pedal to hold it down

crazypj: Thanks, that's what I did. The pedal was pretty loose after that and I was just able to push it down out of the way with my foot while lifting the motor. Any ideas with getting the actual brake pedal off?

Nuther thing, if you take the breather cover off before removing or installing the engine, it will give you about a 1" of 'breathing' room. : Bad pun I know. ;D

The pedal should have a bolt on the outside that looks like it holds the brake switch lever on. Take it out and knock the pin through, may have to soak the hell out of it with penatrant oil.

frogman: Heheh... Yeah, I ended up taking it off to give more room. Thanks man, I'll take a look at that pedal tomorrow and see what I can see.

Speaking of penetrating oil, I just ordered some Kroil today (thanks Z2Z) from http://www.kanolabs.com/google/. They are running a really good deal, 2 king cans for $18 shipped.