Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

The balancer stands wont really work because they will move around along the axis.


If you have a vice mounted on a bench then pull out the swingarm and clamp it in facing up. Then bolt in the wheel with the axle and spacers. You can either use a dial gauge or a piece of wire / something that will just touch the rim. Then you true until it's straight. Keep in mind it doesn't have to be "perfect" - a little sideways runout is OK.
 
Hey man, thanks for the help I appreciate it. From what I read, that stand I linked to seems to work for truing wheels as well - you don't think it will? This'll sound dim but what exactly do you mean by "they will move around along the axis"? Won't those cone things keep the wheel from moving?


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The cones will stop the wheel moving on the shaft but the ends where the shaft sits on the bearings are not fixed so the whole shebang can move laterally. It's designed so there is as little rotating resistance as possible because it's primarily for balancing, not truing.


Your swingarm is a really good truing stand and you already have it and it's free.
 
I have the same type of rig, but with tall stanchions to hold the wheel above the bench and plates to hold the bar in place.
This is mine:
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Balancer-Truing-Balancing-Cruiser/dp/B06Y4BB7RX/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495623782&sr=1-4&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+truing+stand

There's also adjustable legs and a bubble level. It works very well, and it's even tall enough to true 21" wheels with a tire mounted.

I did it mounted on the bike before now. The catch with the swingarm is you have to find level and square to get it right. Also, it's harder to balance rims too for the same reason.
 
hillsy said:
You clamp the swing arm upright in a vice and true the wheel there, not on the bike.
Click to expand...
I get it. Still have to find square and level. Just saying I trued many wheels on the bike, especially dirt bikes after hitting a rock and warping a rim on a trail.
 
irk miller said:
I get it. Still have to find square and level. Just saying I trued many wheels on the bike, especially dirt bikes after hitting a rock and warping a rim on a trail.
Click to expand...


Why does it have to be square and level? You true the rim against the swing arm, makes no difference if it's not level.
 
If it isn't level it's going to look bent because it will spin crooked, unless it's bolted in tight with all the spacers and such then a little off level won't matter but if you just slide the axle in the swing arm and spin it it has to be level or the wheel will look crooked.
 
To use a dial indicator, it has to be level and square to the indicator. But also, a truing stand can also be used to balance a wheel, so it needs level to do that too.
 
I sprung for that portable balancing tool I linked to earlier - $40 CAD, free overnight shipping. I'll use the level on my phone to get the rig as flat as I can, but as everything where I live is as crooked as dog's back leg it might be tricky.

I'll attach some kind of pointer on the axle stands to gauge the runout and take as much time as I can to true the wheels as well as possible.

First time for everything...


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I would recommend grabbing one of these spoke wrenches. Super cheap and absolutely worth it for truing.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/910-704?utm_term=&siteid=NB_G_PLA&product_id=910-704&adpos=1o3&creative=67615001290&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKEAjw3pTJBRChgZ3e7s_YhAkSJAASG9VrhQ5EUbGTYNcsH-pS1UmsPqRMDzTAi0VBvRjr4sn0nRoCADfw_wcB


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$30 balancing whotnot, couple of axle stands and lots of duct tape. Sure ain't pretty but think it should do the job.

Now just gotta figure out how to use the damn thing...


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Awesome. No fix a sharpie or something to the stands to figure out where the rim is off so you can make adjustments.
 
Question - one of the many, many vids I've watched on how to do this truing malarkey involves truing the "roundness" of the rim before the lateral runout. In order to do that, a guide is placed underneath the rim (rather than off to the side) so that the roundness - or, in my rim's case, lack thereof - can be adjusted.

In order to do this, the low point of the rim (the part that touches the guide) is marked, rotated to the highest point, and those spokes near the mark then tightened. Is that correct?

Been at it an hour, need a beer
 
Here are a couple of helpful diagrams. Get comfortable (and a 12-pack)

truing-motorcycle-wheel-2.jpg


Truing-motorcycle-wheel.jpg


Basically which ever way you want the hub to move, you tighten those spokes and loosen the other. Always go a little bit at a time.
 
The Jimbonaut said:


$30 balancing whotnot, couple of axle stands and lots of duct tape. Sure ain't pretty but think it should do the job.

Now just gotta figure out how to use the damn thing...


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Click to expand...


Ha! Looks like an interesting contraption (I like it 8) )


You have to make sure it's secure and doesn't wobble about or you will find it difficult. That's why (for the rear anyway) it's easy to just bolt everything into the swingarm and reference off that.


Anyway, you'll get there. This is a really good site that explains the whole she-bang about wheel building: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html


I know it's for bicycles, but the same rules apply as far as lacing and truing goes for m'cycles.
 
Sweet, thanks for the help guys - will take your advice, settle in with a few cold ones and take my time.

That's the plan anyway.

Hopefully won't get super frustrated and start windmilling in the garage.

Watch this space...
 
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