Cb360 Reassembly Help

Has anyone ever turned their front brake rotor? Mine has some surface rust, so should I take it to a machinist and have him take the top layer off or would it be ok with stopping for a little bit until the pad naturally wears it down?
 
Just hit it up with some sandpaper or something. Pads will finish cleaning it up. Make sure you degrease it
 
cb360j said:
Has anyone ever turned their front brake rotor? Mine has some surface rust, so should I take it to a machinist and have him take the top layer off or would it be ok with stopping for a little bit until the pad naturally wears it down?

I had mine milled down to 6mm - shaved 1mm for weight. petty amount of weight I am sure. but at least I can say I did it
 
If youn find a machine shop that reconditions car flywheels it may be worth having rotor ground flat and thinned to reduce weight. Flywheel grinding is done with a 'Blanchard' grinder.
 
They cut my GL1000 rear at O'Reilly for free. I'm sure they can't do all motorcycle disks, but they can do many. depends on how they mount. Just make sure they get it straight before the first cut. Mine ended up just a tad off, but after about 200 miles it works great. I agree about just sand and go, though. Unless they are bad gouged (mine were).
 
Got my carbs back from PJ this morning, they look sweet. That dude is a wizard. Anyone run any particular type of inline fuel filter between the petcock and carbs?
 
I run the little cheap tapered ones. Check flow arrow when fitting though as I've seen several where fuel flows into outlet so you can't see dirt build up. Check tank filter as well although I've never been able to remove one without damage. There is also another filter inside fuel tap sediment bowl that needs checking
 
Is there any particular 'best' method to putting oil on the k&n pod filters?
Also, any particular time at which it is best to put oil on or even whar type of oil to use?
 
Oiling filters depends on wether you have spray can or oil bottle. With bottle oil, just run it along top of pleatsand let it soak down to bottom. With spray oil, spray along length. Real filter oil is best to use as it stays sticky but there sare now types for foam and cotton filters. I've used PJ-1, Bel-Ray and K&N filter oils. I think the Bell-Ray was best (maybe?) I've also used 'Gunk' or PJ1 chain lube on top pleats. It doesn't soak as well and is a bit thick but does pick up a lot of crap. It seems thinner than majority of chain lubes, in fact I don't ever use PJ-1 on drive chains (long story, had arguments with sales people at various trade shows)
 
Tomorrow I’m taking my bike up to my local hydraulic line shop where they are going to make my front brake likne for me (they owe me a favor since I helped them out with some autocad work). I figured I could measure from master cylinder to brake caliper for the length needed.
Is there a rule on how much slack a line should have in it or a particular length it should be to compensate for the wheel turning?
What is the standard length for a cb360 brake line? 2 piece and single piece
 
Jack it up so the forks go to full extension and let the wheel fall left, then measure.
 
I'm getting antsy waiting for my Sparck Moto Harness so im looking for any excuse to work on something while I wait. Is there any particular tools anyone recommends for electrical work? Or mainly, what types of crimps are common so I can buy the crimping tool.
 
Open barrel is the most common for many bikes and ubiquitous for vintage Japanese.

Our sister company has what you need: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/1
 
I bought ratchet crimpers several years ago. As they do both crimps at once (wire and insulation) they save some time and effort compared to the single crimp I've been using last 35~40 yrs
 

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Is there a way to 'pre-lube' my engine before first start? I filled the oil baths of course when assembling, but for example when rebuilding a v8 you can spin the oil pump drive and it will send oil through the passages. Is there a way to do this on the 360 engine or will just turning the engine by hand work? Also, even though I put some oil on the cylinder walls before assembly should I put any oil in the cylinders or anything before the start? I have kept everything sealed up, oil in the engine, and plan to change the oil and clean the filter again before starting, then after initial start I will change it again

It has been a long time waiting for me, but first start is soon. Pretty pumped.
 
cb360j said:
Literally just dump oil down the valve covers? All 1.5L of it?

try and get some oil inside the "baths" that the cam lobes slosh around in. the rest goes in the crankcase
 
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