GS1000G shafty

RickBost

New Member
So I'm new to whole cafe racer/custom bike build scene. But I figured I would just jump into it since I lover turning wrenches. I have a 1980 GS1000G that my dad gave under the pretense of just get riding again. That was in 2009. Since then I have put all of 500 miles on the bike. Family, military and normal life just got in the way. A buddy bought a new ninja 600 last week and so decided to put the pressure on for me to ride with him. Here is the bike before tear down.
 

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I only began this past Saturday. And here is where I'm at.
 

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You dove right into that. I'll follow along to see what you do with it.. I also have an 80' GS1000G sitting in my barn.
 
Did you check tire clearance between the rear tire and the cross bar plate mount? In the pictures it looks like you will hit that when your shocks compress. Other than that looks pretty good so far.
 
New parts started to show up today. Got the gauges, gasket set, and primer/ rust converter. Already on the the bike are Mac 4 into 1 exhaust, dynatech electronic ignition, dynojet stage 3 carb kit, and k&n pod filters. Still coming are headlight, turn signals, wiring, handlebarsb ect..
 

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Maritime. I plan on buy long spring/shocks for the rear, according to the research I have done this should help with cornering.
 
Longer shocks can help, just make sure you measure the travel of the shock and the distance to the tire and you want travel<tire to bar measurement or a big bump will cause you some grief. Nice parts haul. another way to do it is to remove the spring from a shock, mount it and let it compress, if the shock hits its bump stop before the tire hits the bar you're good. Or if the shocks are hard to remove the springs, put one shock on and ratchet strap it until fully compressed.
 
RickBost said:
Maritime. I plan on buy long spring/shocks for the rear, according to the research I have done this should help with cornering.

It may help but how much longer than stock? Too much can have a negative effect on handling.
 
canyoncarver said:
It may help but how much longer than stock? Too much can have a negative effect on handling.

this too depending on rake and trail changes. The GS1000G is probably a little more to the cruiser rake and trail side so you likely have some room, if it was the sportier chain driver model you wouldn't.
 
And worst case Ontario you pull out the grinder cut off the straight brace and put a bent brace to clear the tire.
 
Here, I found this:

GS1000G rake was 28 degrees, trail, 4.4 inches

This article explains it and you can pick your shocks to get the desired handling you want.

http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/05/22/cycle-world-tips-and-tricks-understanding-motorcycle-rake-and-trail

Also I think there is a calculator that you put your current rake and trail then how much you are thinking of raising the rear which decreases both so lets say you needed 2" longer shocks to clear the tire as long as your rake doesn't change to less than around 26 Deg and your trail stays around 3" you'll be fine. I just couldn't find that calculator but I think a member made one.
 
The concern with going away from the straight brace is using the rear panel. I'm 2" from the bump stop when the tire hits. Maybe I'll modify the bump stops or find a shock that'll work.
 
More work done yesterday. I decided to go from 13" shocks with a 3" stroke to 14.15" shocks with a 2.5" strike. Started painting the engine, sealed/primed the frame, and got more parts in.
 

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And more pictures.
 

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Got some work done not much though.
 

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