What did you build this week?

Basically yes. That is the most expensive individual component. I purchased a complete system the first time around and now I have sourced some/most of the component parts. Shift cylinders for example come in a huge range of sizes and costs. The drag race suppliers like MRE and Shnitz can supply most of the parts at reasonable prices.

The reason to use one is really about consistent complete shifts. I used to miss the odd shift when I did it the old fashioned way. Now I can shift at wide open throttle and not touch the clutch. Yes. It's faster, but my issue is consistency and this helps. Arguably practice might have been cheaper and more appropriate solution but I like technology and working out ways to minimize the impact of my lack of skills.

Next I need to learn to shift when the shift light comes on and not whenever I feel like it. Time for data collection and try different shift points to measure the impact on 330, 1000 and 1320 times and speeds. Never enough runs in a day.
 
Teazer,
I'm curious about shifting at WOT, do you have an actuator hooked to the clutch line as well as the shift linkage sort of like a semi automatic on an atv?
Or do you just rely on the speed of the actuator to slam it into gear?
 
Sav0r said:
Ignition cut.

Yup. Shift button is also a kill switch. Works on the same principle as shifting without a clutch; output from the engine stops (more or less) and takes stress off of the transmission. With no (or very little) stress on the transmission, the clutch isn't needed.
 
More or less. The horn button is wired through a two way switch - one for the horn and the other for the quick shifter. As I push that button, it actuates a solenoid to allow a shot of air to actuate a ram that slams it into gear.

At the same time, it also activates a kill switch with an adjustable kill time. Mine I think is 50 -100 milliseconds. So in essence, the ignition dies for a fraction of a second and that unloads the transmission for long enough for the ram to throw it into the next gear before the ignition comes back on line.

You can also get what's known as an RPM Window switch that will activate a circuit at certain revs. Modern ignition systems often have an output that would trigger the ignition at certain revs. Neither of those is allowed in our race class.

Here's the shifter set up.
DSCN8356sml_zpsb84d347b.jpg


The top end is a rattling good fit, so the ram can move around (self align) and the lower end has a spherical joint to eliminate the slack and wear in a clevis. I can still shift up or down manually around the pits or on the street but I have to keep my feet out of the way if I shift on the button or else the shifter will hit my foot and fail to engage the next gear.

The clutch is not touched after it is released, until the other end of the run.
 
Also,
built a form for my recurve bow build as well as the oven its sitting on (but I already showed it last week)

IMG_1522_zpsricl91hk.jpg
 
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