Battery Eliminator Cb350
- Thread starter BCC
- Start date
Have you swapped out to a new regulator/rectifier and upgraded the stator?
Battery eliminator is unlikely to work without those changes (and even then might be a bit sketchy).
Anway... old (thick) ground strap isn't necessary anymore. You can remove it. New ground is the black wire from the BE. Remove that bullet connector and use the brass hoop terminal. Bolt it to bare metal and you're good.
Red wire will need to connect up to the output from the rectifier and spliced together before heading off to the main fuse.
Battery eliminator is unlikely to work without those changes (and even then might be a bit sketchy).
Anway... old (thick) ground strap isn't necessary anymore. You can remove it. New ground is the black wire from the BE. Remove that bullet connector and use the brass hoop terminal. Bolt it to bare metal and you're good.
Red wire will need to connect up to the output from the rectifier and spliced together before heading off to the main fuse.
It might work, but it also might not. They're kind of hit and miss with the early Honda twins (pre-1978). I know a couple of guys who got one to work on their 360s, but it wouldn't work on mine.
For the best success, the first step is to find setup with a switch that will kill power to the bike, except for the ignition coils. Always start the bike with all of the lights off.
If that doesn't work, a new stator from Rick's will help (but still may not seal the deal).
If you've replaced the stator and the regulator/rectifier, and added the switch, it just wasn't meant to be.
A small battery (LiFePO4) will be your best bet and would be my preference over a BE for any of the Hondas.
For the best success, the first step is to find setup with a switch that will kill power to the bike, except for the ignition coils. Always start the bike with all of the lights off.
If that doesn't work, a new stator from Rick's will help (but still may not seal the deal).
If you've replaced the stator and the regulator/rectifier, and added the switch, it just wasn't meant to be.
A small battery (LiFePO4) will be your best bet and would be my preference over a BE for any of the Hondas.
With a healthy charging system and the majority of your riding taking place on the highway (as opposed to stop-and-go traffic), an ETX6 will work for you. ETX12 if your charging system is a little suspect or you do a lot of city riding.
http://www.sparckmoto.com/batteries
Dimensions listed there.
http://www.sparckmoto.com/batteries
Dimensions listed there.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Unless your racing it's something of a pointless exercise
I've used battery eliminators on various bikes when racing, still had a few issues with bulbs blowing.
I wouldn't consider it on a bike that needs 12v @ around 4amps for ignition
Get a 7A/hr battery, they last more than a year as long as you don't get them too hot. 5A/hr is a bit small and will boil dry (yep, SLA have a vent to prevent them exploding)
I've used battery eliminators on various bikes when racing, still had a few issues with bulbs blowing.
I wouldn't consider it on a bike that needs 12v @ around 4amps for ignition
Get a 7A/hr battery, they last more than a year as long as you don't get them too hot. 5A/hr is a bit small and will boil dry (yep, SLA have a vent to prevent them exploding)
