Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Just bought a DID cam chain off eBay. Reputable seller however I've got minor concerns about how new the item is despite being sold as new.

The item didn't come in DID packaging and there seems to be some red/dark grease on the chain, although no noticeable signs of use.

What should I check for to make sure it in good nick, don't really mind if I is used, as long as its in great condition.
 
Excellent, makes me feel better. At first I thought it was rust/gunk but the pins are spotless.
 
Getting stuck in to the wiring today, should have it finished soon :D

Quick question about the rectifier that is in between the neutral switch and starter solenoid. What is this exactly and are there newer versions available?

I assume its a diode of some sort. Anyone show me a modern equivilent to use?
 
Popped over to see my bud Darren at DNA Customs yesterday to see how we can get the rearsets working properly.

Tried a multitude of alternative options and in the end settled on spacing them out 15mm and fixing the connecting rods in the linkage:

ED493915-8381-4E92-8888-EDE4519356FC-293-00000022786367F8_zps19983e57.jpg


New beefier connecting tubes take up the extra width and should help stop any twisting:

3A58932D-2F3B-444D-A61D-45715CA6EFC5-293-00000022867E5441_zps88abaf6a.jpg


The lever now clears the rear brake pivot mount:

D8B66A10-7A8E-40F1-9DDC-A8A166991271-293-000000228B4242D5_zps05dc4c4a.jpg


Also fixed the brake pivot clearance issue by flipping it around.

Darren is also making up a custom button holder that will slot seamlessly into the old GSXR ignition hole. Can't wait to see it finished as I think its going to look super clean.

Also spent today finishing up the wiring. 90% complete now but ran out of wire and need a couple more connectors. Should have it finished next week ready for testing. Progress shots:

2A58716B-8804-4804-BA13-8D7DDC09DCE3-293-00000024743FEADA_zps6c1121af.jpg


5E2F64EE-9B4C-4320-AE7B-644D78B6BD77-293-000000247938F7BC_zpscc9cdb7e.jpg


And this is where I finished up this afternoon:

74B441D2-B03D-4419-B64E-E7AB5ACFDD59-293-00000028156F69AE_zpsd81f5a2f.jpg


93205E67-0D53-4396-9920-1B5FF63D61E2-293-0000002495460711_zps853b38ae.jpg


3FF07351-9597-4C35-8AB5-B10905C1C739-293-000000249A13D027_zps9b271d95.jpg


E06E0F77-14D7-45FA-871F-CC6750FD0613-293-000000249E7A50EA_zps1a5c4f8b.jpg
 
Re: Re: Down under, an idiot and a 400F

neevo said:
Getting stuck in to the wiring today, should have it finished soon :D

Quick question about the rectifier that is in between the neutral switch and starter solenoid. What is this exactly and are there newer versions available?

I assume its a diode of some sort. Anyone show me a modern equivilent to use?
Click to expand...

I have a rectifier/regulator combo unit made, I think, by Electrosport. I purchased it from DCC.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronics-parts-honda-cb350f-cb400f-cb500-cb550-cb750-rectifier-864218.html

These new ones are supposed to keep voltage a bit lower than the stock regulator saving your fancy battery if that is what you have.
 
Wrong bit Evil. I've got a modern rec/reg coming for the bike but the one I was referring to is in the clutch wiring.
 
neevo said:
Getting stuck in to the wiring today, should have it finished soon :D

Quick question about the rectifier that is in between the neutral switch and starter solenoid. What is this exactly and are there newer versions available?

I assume its a diode of some sort. Anyone show me a modern equivilent to use?
Click to expand...

Call me confused, but you refer to both the "Neutral Switch" and the "Clutch Wiring" ..2 different things. Both are "Safety" features.

The Neutral Safety Switch is a simple button in the tranny case that detects the tranny is in neutral and completes a "grounding" circuit to illuminate the green "Neutral" light. AKA "Idiot Light" (No Rectifier that I can see in that circuit on the Wiring Diagram)

The Clutch Safety Switch is another simple button that detects if the clutch lever is pulled so in case you didn't see or heed the warning of the neutral light avoid, the starter being used with the bike in gear. It "Breaks" or "Opens" the starter button relay circuit so that the starter can not be run unless the clutch lever is pulled.

Maybe it would help me to explain the problem you are having or what your goal is. I assume you have a problem that you believe is this "Rectifier".
 
I may be wrong Frankenfe as I don't have the wiring diagram on me, but on the 400F the clutch switch and neutral switch are both connected on the ground side of the starter solenoid.

I assume as safety features, so you can't start the bike unless its in neutral or you've pulled the clutch in.

However on the connection between both there is a "rectifier" (that's what it's called on my Haynes manual). It's a small piece that looks like a single blade fuse holder. On the diagram its got a triangle in it, as if to symbolize its a diode. I would assume its to stop back flow of current but really I have no idea!

Looking to replace it with a new one as the old one is pretty ratty. So I need to know what it is and what would be a suitable replacement.

Does that make sense?
 
Yep, it's a diode
Honda called it a 'logic circuit' when it was introduced
The diode should be easily available, AFAIK they were used on most Honda and Suzuki (probably Yamaha and Kawasaki as well?) before fuel injection with gear position switches
 
crazypj said:
Yep, it's a diode
Honda called it a 'logic circuit' when it was introduced
The diode should be easily available, AFAIK they were used on most Honda and Suzuki (probably Yamaha and Kawasaki as well?) before fuel injection with gear position switches
Click to expand...

Why is it needed? I'm trying to figure out when current would go back up it!
 
neevo said:
I may be wrong Frankenfe as I don't have the wiring diagram on me, but on the 400F the clutch switch and neutral switch are both connected on the ground side of the starter solenoid.

I assume as safety features, so you can't start the bike unless its in neutral or you've pulled the clutch in.

However on the connection between both there is a "rectifier" (that's what it's called on my Haynes manual). It's a small piece that looks like a single blade fuse holder. On the diagram its got a triangle in it, as if to symbolize its a diode. I would assume its to stop back flow of current but really I have no idea!

Looking to replace it with a new one as the old one is pretty ratty. So I need to know what it is and what would be a suitable replacement.

Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

"Sense" is relative ...Right"Crazy" PJ..

Sounds like you guys are on your way to solving your quest. I assumed it was more of a "is this necessary, can I get rid of it" kinda question since that seems to be the direction most are going ...when you start talking replacement of a part like it, that can be "Looped-Dooped or Deleted" ... and is functional but "ratty" ...ya loose me...If it's functional & you want to keep it ..call it Patina like the rest of us and move on......lol.
 
Frankenfe said:
If it's functional & you want to keep it ..call it Patina like the rest of us and move on......lol.
Click to expand...

I have a problem with that ;) for some reason cannot leave old dodgy looking bits on the bike. I may have to default to using it though, found something on eBay but the price is silly for second hand still:

http://bit.ly/YURBtj

Will keep looking.
 
If it were mine I would do away with the safety switches (neutral, clutch). They are overkill IMO.

Any anyway - it's something else to "go wrong" and leave you stranded on the side of the road scratching your head.....
 
hillsy said:
If it were mine I would do away with the safety switches (neutral, clutch). They are overkill IMO.

Any anyway - it's something else to "go wrong" and leave you stranded on the side of the road scratching your head.....
Click to expand...

Only reason I kept it was I heard it may be a requirement to get the bike registered. Didn't want to wire it all up and find I had to strip it back down again because it got trimmed out. Safety on both counts ;)
 
As far as that goes you only need a functional kill switch that can be operated without your hands leaving the bars (well, that's the requirements in QLD anyway).

I doubt if anyone is going to fail you on that one - if they question you just tell them they didn't have those wiz-bang gizmos back in the 70's.......
 
neevo said:
I have a problem with that ;) for some reason cannot leave old dodgy looking bits on the bike. I may have to default to using it though, found something on eBay but the price is silly for second hand still:

http://bit.ly/YURBtj

Will keep looking.
Click to expand...

You might be able to buy an "Electrical Components lot" or complete used wiring harness with a decent one on it, cheaper than the diode alone ...I agree stupid $ for it alone.

Paint It? Shrink Tube it? how "Dodgy" is this thing? Doesn't a rubber holder cover most of it anyways?
 
Turns out they are still available from CMSL ( 93 & 98 ), $24 plus shipping though:

honda-cb400f-general-export-kph-frame-group-1g-1h-2g-2h_bigma000080f01-3_0e31.gif


Might see if I can tidy up the original instead. How would I go about testing it to see if it works? I assume check resistance in both directions, one will be infinity the other 0?
 
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