New honda cb 125e

DohcBikes said:
funny as hell to see you guys trying to get .34 hp more out of your 10hp engines

I'm not looking at major mods, just healthy ones :) Lose some unecessary weight (not much), replace with necessary weight (more tools, spare tube, tire levers etc), get rid of the athsma and constipation. Oh, chain oiler (have to clean and oil chain every 40 - 70km on dirt roads right now), screen (cruises easier), handle bars (the originals are for little people).

I'd really like to beef up the suspension too. Well, the front is no longer bottoming out because I installed some spacers, but I'm still using up all the rear.

These are the sort of things I'd probably do to any new bike to make it suit me.

I must admit, it is so simple and inexpensive that I find it easy to play with. I still have an intake system and tuning software to use on the ktm from two years ago.
 
grcamna5 said:
Typically the short stroke(49.5mm?)engines don't have that much midrange or low end power but Do need to be 'wrung out' to give you their performance.

Oh dear, I have to learn to abuse my little bike :)
 
I spent a couple of hours trying to find a location for the oiler. I've read that this was the hardest part of the install.

I also checked out the air filter - after 150 km or more of dusty roads it looks clean. And after all my reading on pods and cv carbs, it looks as though it has a plastic velocity stack inside the air box going to the carb :) The filter filters the air going into the box; other bikes I've had the air filter was inside the box. This rules out my plan to use the drz foam filter. But I should be easily able to make my own foam filter - remove the paper filter from its plastic frame when it needs replacing, replace with suitable oiled piece of foam.

I'll post some pictures later to make it more understandable.
 
urastus said:
I spent a couple of hours trying to find a location for the oiler. I've read that this was the hardest part of the install.

I also checked out the air filter - after 150 km or more of dusty roads it looks clean. And after all my reading on pods and cv carbs, it looks as though it has a plastic velocity stack inside the air box going to the carb :) The filter filters the air going into the box; other bikes I've had the air filter was inside the box. This rules out my plan to use the drz foam filter. But I should be easily able to make my own foam filter - remove the paper filter from its plastic frame when it needs replacing, replace with suitable oiled piece of foam.

I'll post some pictures later to make it more understandable.

That sounds like a very good plan,foam will breathe better than paper.
 
Some photos. I thought I'd post this one. I don't know if this is a widely used idea. I started using these air mattress pumps for the mountain bikes; great for blasting out dust from the brake calipers, derailers etc. I often use it when I'm too lazy to hook the hose up to the compressor. Judging from my compressor and the air gun on it, I think this mattress pump is somewhere between 60 - 80 psi coming out of the nozzle. You only need one hand and two feet to pump it, that leaves a hand to direct the air. I've had to glue the hose both ends.
 

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The air filter. There is a lip on top that will be good to hold the new foam filter in. The bottom of the filter sits on top of the flame screen or whatever it is.
 

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The top of the filter box. At this point the plan is to cut out the top of this leaving the outer 1cm or so that holds down and seals the filter to the filter box.
 

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Lastly, the gooky small people handlebars (replaced) and the exhaust. The occy strap is my prototype 3rd mount point. I haven't decided whether to use a stiff spring or bracket, but the plan is to set it up pretty much the same way as the occy strap.
 

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grcamna5 said:
The muffler mount isn't sufficient? does it rattle or something ?

I think it's terrible. The only other mount point is where the header clamps to the head. The mount you see in the photo has most of the muffler's weight hanging off beyond it. The mount point is really a pivot point for the majority of the muffler to bounce up and down around that pivot point, which of course has to effect where the header clamps to the head. I wouldn't be surprised if the header develops a leak if left as it is. Especially since I'm using forestry roads and secondary roads mostly.

The original pipe is really well made, just so restrictive and heavy. The muffler on the original pipe starts much earlier and ends at about the same location as the ixil, so the mount does not act as a pivot for it. Also, the original pipe has an extra hard mount about one foot or so in front of the pictured mount (beneath the motor).

This ixil pipe is a cheap and poorly designed pos (piece of shit). Down the road I wouldn't mind cutting the end off the original and see if I can put a larger diameter pipe with holes in it, and try to remove whatever weighs so much in there. Or cut the original muffler off and use the header for the ixil muffler; this would make the overall length shorter so I could cut off the mount bracket and move it close to the end of the muffler.

I shall probably try to fashion a bracket of aluminium angle and make it a solid mount. I might also try to make the pivot type mount point tight - right now it is loose by design, which suited the old pipe with it's weight distribution and extra mount, but doesn't help this pos at all.
 
I'd sure like to meet an exhaust person who can build me a good head pipe soon.
I'll connect a larger oem muffler from a vintage Honda CB450K5 that will flow more than the stock 1981' CB125S muffler(oem mufflers are very well designed w/ a strong outer casing)and that should make the entire system breathe better while keeping the system solid and tight;I'll be using the original CB450 dohc oem headpipe 'end' w/ oem factory sleeve packing and clamp between the muffler/headpipe 'joint'. This should solve my high flow needs and also keep it quiet. :) I'll also need to have a welder build me a custom-made muffler hanger to solidly support the new muffler/pipe system to the original muffler hanger;I have a spare CB125S oem muffler support bracket to use for that modification and it's made from fairly heavy steel and well supported by the swingarm pivot bolt and a lower bolt directly into the frame & it's the 'low-pipe' CB style that I like for road riding.
 
I'm on holiday grcamna5. Mountain biking and looking around. When I was in Launceston the other day I saw this - thought you might like it
 

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I've been riding the cb every day this week (first week back) to and from work. 20km to work along sealed road, 30km home (25km forestry roads). I've really been enjoying the forestry stuff - an adventure on this bike. I have to ride it like a jockey to get the most out of the limited and soft suspension - my chin just above the screen most of the time. It's a great workout for my quads (5kg or more in my day pack).

On road I run the tyres at 28, 24. On the forestry roads I drop this down to 24, 20 and this is when the tyres are warm, so in reality about 22, 18 cold. Lots of embedded rock on the roads here so the tyres absorb all the small sharp hits. I've been using about 100mm of the 110mm fork travel. The first few days I was using it all, so I asume my style is improving.

I have fitted the chain oiler. It took me hours of trying to find somewhere to put it that would satisfy all the criteria (away from heat, suspension, possible damage due to fall etc.). Once I found a place that looked good, all went fairly quick. This is what I've read of other people's experience fitting these things too. If I do eventually use panniers it will need some protection from them. Unless the bike gets a suspension upgrade that won't happen.

I was going to fit dual purpose type tyres, but there isn't much room to play with and I'm kind of enjoying the challenge of riding with the standard tyres. Some of my ride is loose over hard and I've had the front end start to slide on corners whilst sitting forward with my foot up near the front wheel. Standing on rutted corners is incredibly stable - I suspect more weight on the front helps here. Changing gears and braking whilst perched like a jockey is also a knack. I've adjusted the brake pedal down about 1cm to help with this - the gear shift position is OK.

I have some pictures to post when I have more time :)

I have a couple of questions, somebody might have some answers:)

1. I want to change the foot pegs for off road ones. The rubber on the standard pegs is wearing off - they're not made for standing on. Does anyone know of any off road pegs that would fit this? I didn't realise they are quite make and model specific. I will get some photos of what the cb design is.

2. I want to remove the side stand and therefore the side stand switch. I nearly always use the centre stand and I'm keen to get rid of unnecessary weight. Do I solder the wires together or keep them apart? I know I can try by trial and error. Or is there a more elegant way - removing the need for the signal from the switch altogether?
 
Thanks for the update on your Cb125e urastus;I think you'll have to look at the manual to be sure if those wires can just be disconnected,it would be nice if that was the way. I like the idea of off-road pegs too.
 
grcamna5 said:
Thanks for the update on your Cb125e urastus;I think you'll have to look at the manual to be sure if those wires can just be disconnected,it would be nice if that was the way. I like the idea of off-road pegs too.

Actually it was the old school basic switch (unlike my ktm). To test it I started the bike on the centre stand which has no switch, then put it in gear while the side stand switch was unplugged. It stalled straight away, so I knew I had to solder the wires together. All done now.

The 1st photo shows the side stand with switch and wire assembly - note the socket on the end of the wires, it's in the next photo.

The 2nd photo shows the side stand springs and the socket from the switch assembly. I've cut the wires, stripped them, twisted together, soldered, put heat shrink over the join, and plugged back in. Quick and dirty. One system less to fail.

The details are for beginners, not you grcamna5 :)
 

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After a week of dirt I gave the bike a wash and went for a ride with Gail along the Huon river.

I told Gail she looks like Darth Vader from the Space Balls film.
 

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