JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
Purrdy.
Purrdy.
1979 Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
- Thread starter Dale
- Start date
S
sovern
Guest
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
Wow. What a beauty.
Wow. What a beauty.
MoToBoX-VintageSpeed
Active Member
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
thats....blue?
ok..i m curious about the look of the complete bike
thats....blue?
ok..i m curious about the look of the complete bike
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
BEAUTIFUL!
BEAUTIFUL!
deepwaterimports
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
great looking paint im stinging to see it all together
great looking paint im stinging to see it all together
JonathanCB360T
Honda Fanatic
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
Really Nice build. I am digging the attention to detail and the fact that you can't let anything get overlooked. proud!
Really Nice build. I am digging the attention to detail and the fact that you can't let anything get overlooked. proud!
Dale
Coast to Coast
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
Thanks gentlemen. I think the color will contrast nicely with some polished aluminum and black leather components. Next step is getting some aluminum parts CNC cut. Should have done this before painting.
I've disassembled the rear drive hub again, and asked my dad to check the backlash, before I go into final assembly. He's a retired Mech Engineer, and I told him about my project and asked if he could have a look. Gave it to him on Saturday. I just wanted to make sure, as the drive had been "fixed" by somebody in the past, but there were no shims in there. When I tested it, I had to put in some shims (from a spare unit I had). I'm no expert on this, if anyone knows anything about this component, please share!
v-pilot, motobox, quantity/grade etc oil do you put in the rear-drive hub?
Also, I'm considering upgrading the steering head bearings to roller bearings. Current system is top and bottom cups with bearings packed into them. Not great. Found some resources, but seems overly complicated. Any knowledge will be appreciated.
Thanks gentlemen. I think the color will contrast nicely with some polished aluminum and black leather components. Next step is getting some aluminum parts CNC cut. Should have done this before painting.
I've disassembled the rear drive hub again, and asked my dad to check the backlash, before I go into final assembly. He's a retired Mech Engineer, and I told him about my project and asked if he could have a look. Gave it to him on Saturday. I just wanted to make sure, as the drive had been "fixed" by somebody in the past, but there were no shims in there. When I tested it, I had to put in some shims (from a spare unit I had). I'm no expert on this, if anyone knows anything about this component, please share!
v-pilot, motobox, quantity/grade etc oil do you put in the rear-drive hub?
Also, I'm considering upgrading the steering head bearings to roller bearings. Current system is top and bottom cups with bearings packed into them. Not great. Found some resources, but seems overly complicated. Any knowledge will be appreciated.
50gary
Under the Limelight
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
For the tapered roller bearing I use "All Balls Racing" they have virtually every bike. Usually only about $39.95 It easy to install them, just use a drift and tap out the old races and press in the new races (called cups in this case, the tapered bearing is referred to as the cone and the race as the cup). The lower bearing will be pressed into place, the upper bearing slides into place and is used to set bearing pre-load by tightening the spanner nut(s) on the top. It's not a difficult process. It's a cheap and good upgrade IMO as tapered rollers were invented to accept axial loads, exactly what steering loads are. Factories use loose ball bearing bcasue they are cheaper, Harley Davidson has always used tapered rollers.
Cheers, 50gary
For the tapered roller bearing I use "All Balls Racing" they have virtually every bike. Usually only about $39.95 It easy to install them, just use a drift and tap out the old races and press in the new races (called cups in this case, the tapered bearing is referred to as the cone and the race as the cup). The lower bearing will be pressed into place, the upper bearing slides into place and is used to set bearing pre-load by tightening the spanner nut(s) on the top. It's not a difficult process. It's a cheap and good upgrade IMO as tapered rollers were invented to accept axial loads, exactly what steering loads are. Factories use loose ball bearing bcasue they are cheaper, Harley Davidson has always used tapered rollers.
Cheers, 50gary
v-pilot
More Fun At The Ton!
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
I used some synthetic...Castrol, I think of the weight called for...I consulted Dave Richardson's Guzziology, also added a bit of Moly additive...same went for the trany. I can look it up. If you don't have that book, it's priceless. Available on fleabay pretty resonableDale said:Thanks gentlemen. I think the color will contrast nicely with some polished aluminum and black leather components. Next step is getting some aluminum parts CNC cut. Should have done this before painting.
I've disassembled the rear drive hub again, and asked my dad to check the backlash, before I go into final assembly. He's a retired Mech Engineer, and I told him about my project and asked if he could have a look. Gave it to him on Saturday. I just wanted to make sure, as the drive had been "fixed" by somebody in the past, but there were no shims in there. When I tested it, I had to put in some shims (from a spare unit I had). I'm no expert on this, if anyone knows anything about this component, please share!
v-pilot, motobox, quantity/grade etc oil do you put in the rear-drive hub?
Also, I'm considering upgrading the steering head bearings to roller bearings. Current system is top and bottom cups with bearings packed into them. Not great. Found some resources, but seems overly complicated. Any knowledge will be appreciated.
Re: Moto Guzzi V50 II Cafe
The clearance between the pinion and crownwheel is adjusted by the shim(s) that sit on the pinion shaft behind the rearmost taper bearing. The procedure recommended in the workshop manual is to coat the pinion teeth with engineers blue, reassemble the rear drive and rotate the pinion and wheel by hand on the bench with the teeth meshing under light load to check the contact patch. Depending on the results, you then vary the size of shim to get the correct mesh pattern.
I still have the original V50 manual I got with mine. Don't mind scanning and emailing pages for any builders who want to see the original workshop instructions for anything, just drop me a pm or better, email me.
Alan
Dale said:I've disassembled the rear drive hub again, and asked my dad to check the backlash, before I go into final assembly. He's a retired Mech Engineer, and I told him about my project and asked if he could have a look. Gave it to him on Saturday. I just wanted to make sure, as the drive had been "fixed" by somebody in the past, but there were no shims in there. When I tested it, I had to put in some shims (from a spare unit I had). I'm no expert on this, if anyone knows anything about this component, please share!
The clearance between the pinion and crownwheel is adjusted by the shim(s) that sit on the pinion shaft behind the rearmost taper bearing. The procedure recommended in the workshop manual is to coat the pinion teeth with engineers blue, reassemble the rear drive and rotate the pinion and wheel by hand on the bench with the teeth meshing under light load to check the contact patch. Depending on the results, you then vary the size of shim to get the correct mesh pattern.
I still have the original V50 manual I got with mine. Don't mind scanning and emailing pages for any builders who want to see the original workshop instructions for anything, just drop me a pm or better, email me.
Alan
Dale
Coast to Coast
Thanks for the info -alan-, that's pretty much the procedure I took, only thing is I'm not entirely sure of what that "contact patch" is supposed to look like... Does your manual show a photo or diagram giving the most desirable size patch etc... - I'm not using the correct terminology, but you know what I mean.
As I said, my hub had its shims removed... so the factory setup was lost....
As I said, my hub had its shims removed... so the factory setup was lost....
danejurrous
Been Around the Block
Granted I have never set a ring and pinion pattern on a bike, only on big trucks, the best way to do it is to use grease and go over it once or twice around to get a good look at the pattern to make sure it is wearing in the center of the ring gear rather than the outside edge or inside edge. This is essentially what you would want it to look like.
