Stifler's Mom

Yeah, but it leaves an unsightly step up to the mount. This way it is smooth across the top, and the step is on the bottom where it isn't so obvious. I keep them well lubricated anyway, and replacements are only $10.00 ;)
 
Well........

I have succeeded in rendering a perfectly good motorcycle unrideable. ::)
At least by my old gimpy ass.

Next step, rearsets. ;D

I already have the old pegs removed, and the new location chosen. Bought some channel to use as a mounting base. Now for a little machining and welding. 8)
 
Ha! Well, at least you did a nice job making it uncomfortable.

Nice of you to mention having used the lever mounts as a 'square'. I was pretty impressed with myself when it occured to me to do so.
 
Rich it's the little tips like that, we should be sharing. They help save time and make things easier, and look better. ;)
 
Whoa mama. Just saw the new bars. Talk about a change of pace! I dig those a lot, but have always loved the look of an M bar, so the fact that they make your clean little scooter so much cooler doesn't surprise me. And I can dig rearsets. Of course.
 
Thanks guys! ;D

High praise indeed, from guys with such impeccable taste. 8)

So far I have liked every change, so no "blind alleys".....yet. ::)
 
Let's see.....where was I?......

Oh yeah! Rear sets. ;D

I pulled this heavy thing off, and the heavy brake pedal pivot assembly. :)
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Then got some channel, and square tubing out and got busy with the drill press, drills, hole-saw, and cut-off wheel on an air grinder. Welded these up and after some fitting with the pipes on, pulled the pipes back off and welded them in the frame.
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I fitted them pretty good, as you can see in this pic where I had the outside welded but not the inside yet. ;)
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I need to weld more often, some looked nice, and some looked like a hog's-ass sewed-up with barbed-wire. :-[
Luckily it all looks better after the judicious application of angle grinder, files, and chassis-black paint. 8)
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The mods look almost factory original. After I confirm that this is the right location, I am going to remove the passenger-peg mounts. So far it is looking like I "guessed" right the first time, but I may lower the pegs an inch....idk. :-\

After two days of 65 deg.high days, the forecast was grim. So I started with my other two-stroke (Poulan) in the morning at 50, and by 5:00 pm the temp was thirty and dropping. But I had two trees down and cut-up (but not split :().
In preparation for this crap:
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At least Gator is enjoying it. ;)

I have the brake and clutch pivot assembly about half designed, but I have to wait for my back to stop spasming, and the weather to warm-up, to continue. :(
 
I can't believe it took me all winter to do what should have been a weekend job. ::)

The old girl looks sleek with rear-sets.
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The new shift lever, with a "prototype" linkage.
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The new brake lever, with a non-slip surface left over from an old job building a test fixture. :-X
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Final shift linkage made from aluminum.
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And the brake side, note the chunks of leather in the back corner. :eek: The front corner also hit my kick-start arm when I kicked.
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The damage done to my boot during the shakedown run today. At least it was just a pair of engineer boots, not "more" expensive moto-boots.
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I guess the old girl has a taste for leather. ;) :-[

The riding position is a lot more comfortable, but since it takes me two or three tries to get my right foot up to the peg ::) , I think I will be lowering the peg-height an inch, when I take it back apart (one more time) to trim the brake pedal. :D
 
I had a bit of an "issue" with the bar-end mirrors. Someone (maybe RichArd) told me that the expansion nut on these needed a helicoil before assembly because they were made of "cheese".
I should have listened, because they are difficult to remove after they are stripped. Which happens just before they are tight enough to keep the wind from making them spin at highway speeds. The nut should have been made from steel, but wasn't.

I didn't go the helicoil route for two reasons:
1) I didn't have a metric helicoil kit in my garage, and I would have to order one. (because small town) ::)
B) I just had to be different and try something else. :p

First I shortened the non-tapered section of the nut to fit a SS nylock nut in its place. The mounting bolt was just long enough, no extra.
I used the mounting bolt and a jam nut to hold the taper-nut for filing.
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I filed the black colored section off of both.
Then drilled out the internal threads.
Then tried to use the nylock nut as a jam-nut to expand the collet. Note the word tried. :-[
There was no way to hold the nut in order to tighten the bolt. ::)
So I used some Locktite epoxy gel to mate the nylock nut and the tapered aluminum.
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After letting them cure for 24 hours I was "finally" able to mount the bar-end mirrors and get them properly tightened and adjusted. ;D

And yes, that is a wooden kitchen match and two halves of a toothpick I used for a gluing jig. :D
 
Wish I'd've been there for the moment of realization as it struck you that it would be difficult to hold the nut in place inside the bar ;)
 
Great! Now I'll be immortalized in a comic for screwing up. :-[

You should have seen the look on my face last Saturday when I pulled out of my driveway and the bike wouldn't shift out of first. :mad:

I had a hall-pass for the whole day, in remembrance of Fathers Day. ::)
 
Since the old girl is nominated for BOTM, I thought I better take some current pics.
The powers that be, held off the rain and gave me a sunbeam. (as thunder rumbled in the distance) ;)

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I pulled the side plate off the right side of the engine to look at the shift mechanism. I had hoped the cause of not being able to shift gears would be obvious. The shift arms and their springs were in good shape, but I noticed this:
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There are supposed to be 7 steel clutch plates and 6 friction plates, as you can see they are exactly the opposite. ::)
I hope the fix is this easy, I was dreading splitting the cases if I couldn't find what was wrong.
Everything looked new, there was a little aluminum powder in the bottom of the case. I don't think the pressure plate is worn, even though there was no steel plate on it's front. :-\
Of course the screws were buggered.
Here is what I found when I opened the clutch:
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Got all the gaskets/seals/discs etc. in the mail on Tuesday, going to get a "garage day" Saturday. Y'all will be the second to know if it works. ;)
 
Thanks for the interest guys. I assume it would be a good idea, to replace the seal behind the clutch basket while I have it apart, since I have the seal anyway. Anything else I should do while I am here?
 
Check the steel plates if the are true and for decouloration.
Be sure to torque the clutch spring screws right...i think it was around 20NM...
 
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