76 CB360, Cherry Bomb at Barber's

Re: 76 CB360, before & after

Pop the 'O' rings out first and take off the minimum you need to get flat, thinner flange will bend easier than original
Torque for 6mm bolt is 84~108 INCH Pounds (7~9 ft/lbs but most torque wrenches are not accurate at very low settings)
 
Re: 76 CB360, before & after

crazypj said:
Pop the 'O' rings out first and take off the minimum you need to get flat, thinner flange will bend easier than original
Torque for 6mm bolt is 84~108 INCH Pounds (7~9 ft/lbs but most torque wrenches are not accurate at very low settings)

These got NO orings...they are stock honda from honda shop...last summer.
And I did try the torque wrench at 6 lbs. I quit before I got there, though.....it was more than I had on em before.
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

Alabama here I come...

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Now I am getting excited...cause it actually fired right up and ran pretty darn good.
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

I honestly didn't think I could like your bike any more but the new engine paint job is looking great man and very happy to hear its running just as good as it looks!
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

whitey said:
I honestly didn't think I could like your bike any more but the new engine paint job is looking great man and very happy to hear its running just as good as it looks!
Thanks dude...I dont recommend anyone try this at home. that was a masking nightmare!
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

Way cool, thought the red was cool before. This puts it over the top. ;D
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

rays650cafe said:
Way cool, thought the red was cool before. This puts it over the top. ;D
Thanks Ray, I too liked the red engine. But, Im really happy with the new fresh look. Im definitely no professional flame painter...LOL. But Im not embarrassed by the job I did. I think its pretty obvious...Im NOT going for the new, fresh out of the box, I paid somebody else to do it...look. And Im pretty damn proud of her.
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

Also, I am really considering doing the edges of the fins in Red.

AND, when I first wrapped the pipes and the Black was fresh...I HATED them...But, now the wrap is showing some wear...Im really digging it...I am gonna scrub some more of that black off...Give em the aged, worn out look. And besides I think the gray color of the wrap under the black kinda matches the tank and fenders.
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

it's like satan himself rode that thing up from the bowels of hell. I like it
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

axeugene27 said:
it's like satan himself rode that thing up from the bowels of hell. I like it

me and my boss are sitting here laughing...we are both speechless. I dont care who you are...thats funny.
and Thanks Im glad you like it.
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

Next time...
while I was doing the flames...I watched a couple vids on "real flames". I got a couple airbrushes down in basement...maybe w a little practice.

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Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

trek97 said:
Thanks Ray, I too liked the red engine. But, Im really happy with the new fresh look. Im definitely no professional flame painter...LOL. But Im not embarrassed by the job I did. I think its pretty obvious...Im NOT going for the new, fresh out of the box, I paid somebody else to do it...look. And Im pretty damn proud of her.

Cool, at first I thought you painted on oil gushing out (it's just the way my mind works ;D )
I like the red/Black better than all red 8)
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

crazypj said:
Cool, at first I thought you painted on oil gushing out (it's just the way my mind works ;D )
I like the red/Black better than all red 8)
I wont take any offense at all by that mistake. Cause I can see that also. Like I said earlier, I am not a pro flame painter. It does look a bit like the black is dripping down the sides.
Also, I did the first chop after the engine build...getting lean at 6000. So, that gives me a project today.

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Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

I'm not into brats at all and I couldn't stop myself from reading your build. You have done a fantastic job. The engine over haul was entertaining to say the least. It would scare me to take on something like that as a "learning experience."

The red engine was a little over the top, by no means am I shooting down what it was. It is intriguing to see a truly different bike among these cafe/brats/bobbers. The new flames are great though. Still has that unique feel and it has good contrast.

Keep up the great work and try not to let the bike rot in the lawn like the weed eater. ;)
 
Re: 76 CB360, If you didnt like the red engine...LOL

Thanks Stogz, I would never have successfully completed the engine build without the help of my fellow DTTers. They are nothing less than a wonderful grouping of info, knowledge and entertainment. A guy needs that to keep his spirits up when things get frustrating.
My bike is very lucky we live in Illinois. You have no idea how many times and how close Ive been to rolling this thing off a cliff...The only thing that stops me...In Illinois we have no cliffs.
 
Re: 76 CB360, Stainless hardware + aluminum engine = thread sealant

When installing Stainless hardware to assemble your engine.

If nothing else, do not neglect to use a thread sealer w the stainless hardware. S/S and aluminum dont play well together. that combo is the first and worst about galling. I use real-tuff thread sealant. you can get an 8oz bottle (lifetime supply) just about any plumbing supply, its good to + 550 degrees, Versus a tiny tube of permatex 59214 high temp sealant (auto parts store) is only good to 400 degrees and costs about the same and probably wont be enough to do your whole bolt kit. And when using thread sealant be sure to torque everything to the lower torque values given in the honda workshop manual. lower torque value = lubricated fit, higher = dry fit.

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Here is the entire article, I pasted the important stuff below.
http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Galling.pdf

Galling
Thread Galling
Thread galling is a common, yet seldom understood problem with threaded fasteners. Galling, often referred to as a cold-welding process, can occur when the surfaces of male and female threads are placed under heavy pressure. The frustrating aspect of fastener galling is that galled nuts and bolts may pass all required inspections (threads, material, mechanical, etc.), yet they still fail to function together.
Stainless steel fasteners are particularly susceptible to thread galling, although it also occurs in other alloys that self-generate an oxide surface film, such as aluminum and titanium. During the tightening of the fastener, pressure builds between the contacting thread surfaces and breaks down the protective oxide coatings. With the absence of the oxide coating, the metal high points of the threads are exposed to one another, which increases friction. The combination of these two events can generate enough heat to fuse and seize the nut and bolt together.
Minor galling may cause only slight damage to the thread surface and the installer may still be able to remove the fastener. However, in severe cases galling can completely weld the nut and bolt together and prevent removal of the fastener. If the tightening process is continued once galling begins, the fastener may be twisted off or have its threads stripped.
Unfortunately, even with an understanding of the mechanism of galling, little is known on how to successfully control it. However, galling can be minimized with the following measures:
• Thread lubrication is one of the most effective measures to decrease the potential for galling. The lubricant reduces friction, which is a key element in thread galling. Certain environments preclude the use of some lubricants (such as stainless steel fasteners used in food processing equipment). Also, the operator must be aware that the torque-tension relationship will be altered with the use of lubrication.
 
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