1975 CB360 Freeze-dried Hell Ride

Ellwood said:
Very cool... Especially since I only know fiberglass mold making. Can you lay glass in this and how many times can you pull a part before it degrades?
This is for fiberglass. As long as I keep it sealed and use a proper release I should be able to use it a bunch. With ceramics, I've pulled hundreds from the same mold. Not sure here, since I've only done small batches.
 
If you come to the beach, I've got some 4oz cloth and some 6oz S glass. The S glass is 20%stronger than regular but less pliable... Both together would make a very strong seat... I. Also have a 4 ft wide roll of mat glass and plenty of general purpose layup resin. I buy it by the 5 gal bucket. Don't buy any catalyst... I buy that by the 4 gal case. I also have gelcoat and pigment if you want to spray in the primary color.
 
Ellwood said:
If you come to the beach, I've got some 4oz cloth and some 6oz S glass. The S glass is 20%stronger than regular but less pliable... Both together would make a very strong seat... I. Also have a 4 ft wide roll of mat glass and plenty of general purpose layup resin. I buy it by the 5 gal bucket. Don't buy any catalyst... I buy that by the 4 gal case. I also have gelcoat and pigment if you want to spray in the primary color.
You rock! That's killer. I've been holding off on this because I know what this shit can cost to ship. I had to go ahead and make the mold, but I've not been sure when I'll be able to create a cast.
 
And we can make a f'n mess at my shop without worrying about spillage/drippage. I can show you the UV catalyst too. You can partially cure each layer using the sun. But the cool part is you can dual catalyze and have it slowly finish overnight. It makes a part like that easy to pull in a few hours. My buddy has his surfboard factory down the road... He does some vacuum bagging too. Neat stuff. If you can do a mold for a gas tank that would be interesting... I looked into the components for that a while back. The expensive fiberglass tanks I saw were complete crap.
 
I can cast the 360 tank and the XL tank, that's what I've got. Or, I can looky for some other tanks. What I'd like to get my hands on is a 400f tank, but just as a loaner to cast. I have all summer for dis.
 
If you're interested in trying a tank I would pick one that's in high demand. I think it would be a challenge and we'll have to line them to stop the Gas from eating it up... Plus the liner can act as a safety bladder in case of a crash. Metal bends / glass busts kinda easy.
 
crazypj said:
Are you sure the link rod is 5mm? All the Suzuki's I've done are 6mm
The shaft measures 5mm with with calipers. Maybe I should weld some steel knuckles and thick flat steel to the ends and make it like a real custom Busa. ;D
 

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Ellwood said:
If you're interested in trying a tank I would pick one that's in high demand. I think it would be a challenge and we'll have to line them to stop the Gas from eating it up... Plus the liner can act as a safety bladder in case of a crash. Metal bends / glass busts kinda easy.
Check out the Continental racer tank DCC is selling for $500.
 
Usually a 5mm thread will be ~4.8mm and a 6mm thread about 5.8mm~5.9mm max
Measure the actual thread
 
deviant said:
Maybe I should weld some steel knuckles and thick flat steel to the ends and make it like a real custom Busa. ;D

Yea, Im thinking MAYBE NOT. lol ::)
 
Things went rich, really rich on the carbs. I've had to turn the idle mixture screws way out to lean it up. I'm going to switch to the iridium plugs to see if I can get better burn.
 
:-\

turning screws "out" will make her richer.

If its only one carb thats rich it could be a torn diaphragm.

If you open them up...please post a pic of the diaphragms.
 
trek97 said:
:-\

turning screws "out" will make her richer.

If its only one carb thats rich it could be a torn diaphragm.

If you open them up...please post a pic of the diaphragms.
Well, that confuses me. The manual say turn out if its too rich. Opening the screw is letting air in right? It's what I have to do to get it to run right and not end up with carbon fouled plugs.
 
deviant said:
Well, that confuses me. The manual say turn out if its too rich. Opening the screw is letting air in right? It's what I have to do to get it to run right and not end up with carbon fouled plugs.

If you are looking at a clymer manual I will personally kick your ass!!!

That needle adjuster is metering atomized fuel through the pilot circuit, If its rich you need to screw it in. Restricting the flow of atomized fuel.

Next if you unscrew it all the way and pull it out. No liquid fuel will spill out. Because, liquid fuel should never reach that point.

When the throttle butterfly is closed and the bike is at idle. Fuel from the bowl enters main primary then goes sideways into the pilot jet (hidden under screw) then is atomized and is pulled from the pilot circuit into the idle circuit with vacuum. When the throttle is cracked and the butterfly opens the atomized fuel then changes directions from the idle circuit back to the pilot circuit.
 
Also check for a stuck slide, if you find one is sticking clean it up and just add a cap of marvel mystery to the gas tank.

make sure the vents in the slides are even, and towards the filter side. It is possible for the slides to work around and get out of whack in the diaphragms.
 
Because I'm a glutton, I've decided to try to copy my seat out of sheet metal. No equipment- just planishing hammers, a football dolly, a carved log, an anvil, and my trusty MIG. I made a pattern from the fiberglass jawn, shaped the pieces with the planishing hammers and started sewing the pieces together with the MIG...
 

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A little more work.
 

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