Something wild

Work in progress. Nothing really hapened lately. Engine parts came. I ported a cylinder head and took it to cylinderhead pro to finish valve seats. Well.. He noticed the cylinder head was wrong model of 1,6l pinto cylinder head. It was "e-max" head with thinner walls in intake and exhaust ports and bigger combustion chamber than normal version. So that means smaller ports and smaller compressions. So I dumped the head to thrash can and searched new one, the right one.
Well, I got a new head very cheap 20€. Well, condition wasnt suprisingly good. Valve guides were loose. So that means paper money flying away. Again.
Lucily I got some contacts so I sent the head to one guy who will install K-Line valve guide-liners to head so that is very good.
Picture of old shitty cylinderhead.
 

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Ive been working on the engine block now. Got the parts and cylinders are machined now so I started to assembly it. I used old crank rods because they are strong up to 7500rpm and its enough to road use. Piston pins were pretty tightly in rods as usual but with heat and hydraulic press no problem. Used pins in freezer and heated pistons, then quickly put pins with hands to new pistons. Then I put new bearings to crankshaft and rods and assembled everything.
Also painted the block, oilpan and other little parts on the block. Now Im waiting the cylinderhead.
 

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Thanks. That viscous fan hub is removed now. It was difficult to remove because I didnt realize it had converse thread and also hard to lock it still. Ill use electrical fan in car because then car will warm up faster in winters and also i think it is good if fan can also cool after engine is turn off.
 
Hello. I found some more rust in the car ??? In Ford Taunus there is a subframe where all front axles collectively are joined, also shock abrossers. So the subframe is attached to car's frame to four spots and there is bushes. I guess bushes were original so I can tell these we very loose and there was pretty big clearance. So, it is maybe reason why the car's steering was kind of "floating". Also two spots the subrame was attached was so rusty. I removed rusty plate and strengthen it so it will be better than new now ;)
Ill get harder bushes so steering will be more steady. Ill post pics of repaired spots later.
 

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I ordere polyurethane bushes from ebay. Im thinking if I buy new shock absorbers too.. ;D
 

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Project is going on, this weekend I worked on car gauges. Heat indicator and oil pressure warning light doesnt work. Well, there wasnt very much anything. Heat indicator gauge was stuck. I connected the gauge's pos wire to car batterys neg pin and neg wire to pos pin and after that connected it right and that did the trick. Indicator was somehow stuck so connecting electrics converse, it moved indicator converse and released the indicator and unstuck it.
Next was the oil pressure. There was such a weird thing. In gauges there is red and yellow light. By using common sense, yellow light is under fuel gauge so it is "fuel low" light and red is oil pressure because there is no other lights. So when I connected oil pressure sensor, then in gauges the yellow light swiched on and the red didnt. I tried to think whats wrong, for a while to be honest. After hour i googled it and suprise google told me what was going on. There wasnt such thing as fuel low light. The yellow was oil preasure light. And the red was low battery light. So after all i managed to fix everything.
When I bought this car, it was dirty outside and inside. The seller said he had washed car two times in ten years he have had the car. So also car seats was dirty and maybe a bit moldy. I washed seat fabrics and also put more foam to backseat. Now it is so comfy. Its like sitting on cloud. How you know i am not exaggerating about it. Well, that is only one place my garage buddy's dog sleeps in the garage.
 

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Nice to see common sense was included in yer birth build sheet mang... This little transport should serve you well when complete :eek:
 
Yes I hope so! ;)
Yesterday I worked on exhaust manifold. I got a "new" exhaust manifold, with bigger diameter pipes. Stock manifolds are usually pretty bad, heavy cast iron and too small. The manifold is used in other car so it didn't fit right. a Collector pipe's angle was too steep so it pointed strait to cars frame. I cut the old collector and welded new one to the exhaust manifold.
I also got some new used parts to car like a blinker case.
 

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That's gonna flow some spent gas... you may need to increase the air/fuel mix to balance things out and gain some ponies the the RW


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Yes. Std 2l pinto has one Weber DGAV, upright, double throat carburetor. Im going to put two Dellorto DHLA, side draft, double throat. So fuel intake is going to be much bigger and better.
The Standard intake manifold of this engine is like the std exhaust manifold. Too heavy, too small diameter, doesnt "breath" enough, too steep angles. Like you know, fuel and exhaust flows better if there is no steep curves in pipes. So I can remove one 90° angle from intake manifold by using side draft carburetors instead of upright carburetors.
 
Here is are the carbs ill use. Missing velocity stacks but im going to get them.
 

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I thought ill try if i can 3D- print those velocity stacks. I calculated length and diameter of intake runner and did some 3d modeling. I did some research about stack shapes and chose optimal shape. With 2" (10cm) long stack, it gives most power to about 5500rpm with runner diameters I have. I picked numer 9 stack shape. Lets see if I can print those stacks :)
 

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