67 BSA Spitfire "Stay Clean"

Do I hear Beeza Brat? haha


Glad to see you movin' on Scott, looking forward to this

That made me chuckle Pete.
With this being a "Bitsa" the more I think about it, I am ready to take my builds to what I consider the next level. I want this bike to look like one of us would have bought it new and used the items that were available back then to make a period correct modified Spitfire.

Hahaha thought you'd like that


Period correct sounds like fun... sorta what I think I'd do with a Kat when I finally get one!

I'll be following along

notlob said:

I'll be following along

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Glad to have you Notlob! Being from the UK maybe you can offer the "Home Town Advantage"

Hoosier Daddy said:

Glad to have you Notlob! Being from the UK maybe you can offer the "Home Town Advantage"

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haha, if only.
My brit bike knowledge is limited to thrashing a Bantam around a field in my teens, ever since I've been on the road I've only had Japanese bikes. I started riding in 76 when the reputation of brit bikes was in the gutter and not viewed though rose tinted spectacles. Would love to have one now but they command good prices these days. Mind you I read lots about them in Classic bike mags.

if you need a nice set of wind up s/s gaitor straps to add a nice finishing touch let me know...all stainless and made in the shop here is USA, i'll price them right for a fellow BSA rider, i also am a dealer for jrc and coventry spares if you go on a shopping spree and want to save a few bucks...
see below if interested
joe
www.joesvcycle.net

Thanks joea! Think I remember you from www.britbike.com from when I first started posting on this aquisition. You'll probably be seeing a lot more of me there.

I got top top yoke off the triple tree. Doesn't sound like mutch until you learn the British bike design moto... "Why use only 2 pieces when you can do the same thing with 10 ?"
Seriously.... Steering damper knob and through-bolt, it's sleeve nut, friction disc and star spring washer, Pinch bolt, fork tube caps, washers and cable guides, top nut onto a sleeve that is male and female threads onto the pivot shaft and in the yoke. All to find the tube tops are tapered and press fit into the yoke, took several whacks with the deadblow hammer to get the yoke finally free.

The front forks need help, not only are the tubes rusted and pimered (!) but when on the center stand the left extends about a 1/2" further than the right, cocking the wheel to an angle. Although nothing seems bent or loose, something is definately wonky there.

Ahhhh good times ahead!

Thanks Miffa! Here is what I am seeing.



The rod that threads into the top cap does pull out considerably farther on the right side than is does on the left. Much easier too, almost no resistance.



I think you are onto something.
Appreciate the support.

> you my friend have a eddie dow double damping conversion get them stripped and post a piccie at least we know its not your shuttle valve loose at the bottom of the sliders they should have been removed unless its something ive never seen before

This is going to be one of those threads where I don't recognize any of the parts and the descriptions don't make sense either, isn't it

Rich Ard said:

[quote author=miffa] you my friend have a eddie dow double damping conversion get them stripped and
post a piccie at least we know its not your shuttle valve loose at the bottom of
the sliders they should have been removed unless its something ive never seen
before

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This is going to be one of those threads where I don't recognize any of the parts and the descriptions don't make sense either, isn't it [/quote]


Yea, ain't it GREAT!
I'm getting all giddy 'n shit again to find out what I got... almost like a pressie at Christmas... BIG smile on my face!

Hoosier Daddy said:

pressie

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Stop that

Man this is funny, the divid between jap and Brit builds . HD have fun

jeff4uk said:

Man this is funny, the divid between jap and Brit builds . HD have fun

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Have you seen my new sig line
I got the front end dismantled, yokes are tip-top but the front stanchions are definately out of kilter...
Wait... what am I saying. :
I pulled the front front forks off and even though the triple trees were fine the left tube is wacked. Doesn't extend all the way and tilts inboard. Good news is I planed on replacing the tubes any way due to rust and a 97-3906 is what I am after. Ebay isn't as bad as I imagined.. about a $100 a pair.
That rod with the shuttle valve and jam nut that screws into the top cap is a factory unit. ... for 68 an on. What the heck "BitSA" did I pick up anyhow!

Hoosier Daddy said:

Have you seen my new sig line

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Sir Lucas: "A gentleman should not be motoring about after dark."

Still sorting out the yoke. Turns out the one I picked up without handlebar risers cast in was from a later OIF model and the stanction holes aren't tapered. No great loss money wise but now I am still searching out my options.
I see a '66 Lightning Clubman's had the handlebar mounts forward but they are drop style out at the tubes so my stock headlight ears would need replaced with the shorter style from the same donor model.



I think if I cut the stock ones, the webbing that would be removed underneath would really weaken them.

miffa said:

found this on uk ebay
390.00 GBP = 629.596 USD buy it now

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Oh you bastard.... you viscous heartless BASTARD!
Thanks but that's way outta my price range. Remember I paid $300 for the whole BIKE!

Rich Ard said:

>.........................This is going to be one of those threads where I don't recognize any of the parts and the descriptions don't make sense either, isn't it

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There should be a translation guide somewhere.

Eddie Dow raced and prepped race biked for the Clubman's TT and they were all Goldies IIRC. His shop offered the twittering silencer which made an odd and very unique twittering sound on the over run. They also sold a fork conversion that included a massive cast alloy top triple clamp and a cartridge conversion that was decades ahead of its time.

They were known as Superleggera which probably translated into "great pair of legs" !

180mm = full width front brake much sought after, but not all that effective

QD rear hub = Quickly detachable hub that left the brake drum and sprocket attached to the swingarm to allow for faster rear tyre changes.

8" single sided = a single sided front brake 8" diameter drum which is very different to the average full width Japanese hub design.

OIF = Oil In the Frame design which was designed in the design center at Umberslade Hall, know as Slumberglade Hall" at the time. First designs were too tall and hard to ride. Design used the main frame tube as the oil tank to clean things up designwise.

Goldie as a great bike, RGS was nice to look at but tended to be a little fragile and Spitfire was similar. The twins will never be a Triumph (guess what model twins I used to ride) I always wanted a Spitfire. It just looked right and with that bright red tank and twin AMAL GP carbs it looked ready for the race track.

Shuttle valves = late sixties damping idea in the forks. Similar to the piston in a damping rod fork but without the damping rod.....

That's all for now. There will be a test next week on chapter 2 of the History of BSA.

Your knowledge is always welcome Teazer... glad you chimed in!