Re: Scott's 1974 CB360 project- She is alive!!

Re: My 1974 CB360 project

You can check this one fairly easy, the caps on the right side are covers for the shafts. The old style had floating shafts that were not connected to the caps. The new style was, so you can just pull the caps and see if the shafts come with them. The other side you have to take out the two bolts on top of the points boss and pull the 2 plus in the points area and then pull the shafts out and measure the tongue on them. I really don't see the difference in either because I ended up with a set of the old and a set of the new in the rebuild I'm doing on mine. There were updated bolts for valve cover as well but I think the fix for that is just not over tightening them.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Color coat is laid down

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Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Dude you are the man at painting loving it ;) Did you match the original color on the tank? it looks great send me some paint lol
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Not a factory color but it is pretty close. It's Mazda Celestial Blue ( Code 38J) from the new 3. It's much brighter than original color, tons of metallic.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

It looks sweet. My tank is in really good shape minor little nips and chips. butt i love the color. Its the only original part and color on my bike so i cant build the guts to paint it. Keep up the good work!!!


hey since your in to bikes whats a 1970s french puegeot 10 speed bike worth???
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Thanks, vintage bikes are worth whatever someone will pay. I am not really into vintage bicycles. I am into hydro brakes, carbon fiber and highly adjustable suspension. ;D



My carbon mountain bike

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Oh, and if it actually has 10 speeds it's likely not worth much other than riding value
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

That is a sweet looking bike i cant belive they are so darn expensive :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Nice build so far, puts my ratty half cafe to shame. If I make it for a ride up to your neck of the woods I will stop by the shop and say hello. Keep up the great work, paint is very nice. Oh yeah and the discussion on the oil issue, the head are starved from the factory causing pre-mature wear, some guys drill out the oil channel to help, then add an oil cooler to increase the amount of oil in the bike to help not starve the bottom after.

Cheers,

Maritime
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

OK, so I took some compression readings but it was hard since the motor is out and I could only get weak kicks after a few I only got 70psi in each cylinder. Is this because of it being cold, out on the floor or my technique or am I missing something. It did run and I don't think it would with 70psi...
I don't have the updated cam chain tensioner or rocker shafts. Is this a major concern?

The cam shaft does have a fair bit of side to side runout, I guess it will need some shims. Overall wear looks minimal
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

SpottheDogg said:
OK, so I took some compression readings but it was hard since the motor is out and I could only get weak kicks after a few I only got 70psi in each cylinder. Is this because of it being cold, out on the floor or my technique or am I missing something. It did run and I don't think it would with 70psi...
I don't have the updated cam chain tensioner or rocker shafts. Is this a major concern?

The cam shaft does have a fair bit of side to side runout, I guess it will need some shims. Overall wear looks minimal

Well i dont see you being able to really get a good compression reading if your bike is not in the frame. 70 psi is very low .you want around 180 psi. 150 is your minimum and that is also conciderd low. I recomend since you have your engine out hone it ,get new rings , new gaskets,and ,replace the valves if needed. Keep this in mind if eigther cylinder is 10 t0 15 psi from one another then you need to rebuild your top end. Just some food for thought!!
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

The updated or any cam chain tensioner seems pretty rare, mine really show very little wear and I'm wondering if I can get away with them. I found updated rocker shafts on eBay NOS for cheap.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

stript.714 o/c said:
Well i dont see you being able to really get a good compression reading if your bike is not in the frame. 70 psi is very low .you want around 180 psi. 150 is your minimum and that is also conciderd low. I recomend since you have your engine out hone it ,get new rings , new gaskets,and ,replace the valves if needed. Keep this in mind if eigther cylinder is 10 t0 15 psi from one another then you need to rebuild your top end. Just some food for thought!!


Thank you, everything looks pretty good in there. I ordered some new rings (stock size) and I already had a complete gasket kit coming. I think the cylinders just need to be de-glazed and I will get the valves seated. What can I do as far as planing the decks? How much can come off?
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

OK as far as checking the compression on an engine that is not PHYSICALLY mounted in something that will let you kick the shit out of the kick start I wouldn't even try to do the test. Put the sucker back in the frame if you can, and then try to do the test. Shoot for about 150-160 cold, the sides should be within 10 psi of each other as mentioned. If you get that then I would call it gravy for now. If not then put about a cap full of oil in the plug holes and give it a min to settle in. Then do the test again If the pressure jumps up then your rings are prolly shot. If it crawls up or doesn't change your valves may be leaking. You can hear the valves leak when the compression cycle hits.

IF you think the valves are leaking then do this, go to the store, buy some acetone, pull the head and set the head on its side and pour the stuff into the ports and look at your valves. You should not see any wetness on the combustion side of the valves. Do the other side. If you see stuff leaking out then your valves are not sealing and you need to figure out why. I had this issue with my bike and both the exhaust valves some how got bent. The intake valve seats were pretty screwed up too. I had spares so I pulled the valves out and lapped them all and presto, good seal NO LEAKS.

If your head is good then the next issue is the rings or the cylinders. Get your manual and some measuring devices, feeler gauge and caliper, and get to checking the ring gaps, piston and cylinder wear and such. The manual will tell you what things should look like although I can say that if you can still see the markings on the tops of the rings you may be close to tolerance on the ring grooves in the pistons, if they are shiny they are prolly shot. I would have ordered the rings after I measured things, I also like ordering the next size up so I can hand file fit each ring to each cylinder. After deglazing that is.

The cam should have a shim on the right side, again this is something that the manual will tell you as far as how out it can be without it. You may look around in the engine it might have fallen in if you have the head off.

There is really nothing wrong with the old tensioners other than you have to be DILIGENT about keeping the effing cam chain TIGHT. Too mcuh slack will cause the chain to slap the top tensioner mount and tear shit up. It will also chew up the case as well. KEEP an EYE on eBay, they come by all the time. The big thing I see with the rocker deal was stronger bolts to hold the head down. The shafts are pretty much the same size.

Decking the head is something a machinist will have to go through with you. There are ways to measure but that is another story. Find a good reputable guy, tell them what you want and you may have to bring most of the engine to them for measuring, they should tell you what they need.

Worst part about taking the engine apart is finding shit you don't want to see. MY PO ran the dog piss outa this machine, with a clogged oil filter screen and possibly gas in the oil, for a LONG time. I found all sorta worn out crap and spent a lot of time measuring things and digging through eBay looking for deals. I ended up having to do the entire top end and the crank shaft because you can't take the bitch apart and change con rods.
 
Re: My 1974 CB360 project

Thanks frogman, I canceled the ring order for now. I thought there was only one ring size per piston? If you go up a size in rings go up to oversize piston is what I was told. I have a guy doing the valve seats and measuring the cylinders, they are clean very smooth.

Tarozzi clip ons I bought at www.fastfromthepast.com
 
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