Cb360 Reassembly Help

cb360j said:
Fixed the break issue, the spring just wasn’t on, I swear I should be more observant before I post on here.

New issue:

Just installed the clutch cable, and did as the FSM said to the T. But the bike is in a constant ‘neutral’, I can change the gears freely without pulling the clutch. Also, the lever will not return.

make sure you're not missing the actuation rod ball bearing (it's very common to fall out while servicing or long periods of being apart)

index.php
 
The ball bearing is certainly there. One thing I’m not sure of, is when you correctly tighten the clutch, what do you do with the top adjuster nut? Do you tighten it back down? It didn’t specify in FSM
 

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Another random question: if a motorcycle is not running, are the intake valves open or closed?
 
Depends on where it is in the stroke at rest. Could be one or the other or neither.
 
cb360j said:
Another random question: if a motorcycle is not running, are the intake valves open or closed?

Depends where the cam was when the engine stopped.

All valves could be closed, or any other combination!
 
There are 2 adjustments to the clutch. One is only for the cable itself. The other is the throw out mechanism, and is the one on the side cover (not on the cable). First, with the side cover off, the clutch should be engaged (like the lever is not being squeezed.) You can check this by putting the transmission in any gear and seeing that the the engine tries to turn when you turn the rear wheel. With the cover still off, squeeze the lever and observe it functions normally though with very little effort as you are only pulling on the throw out return spring. You can look at this function inside the cover. Also notice that when you pull in the lever, the throw out moves in and out as well as rotates. This in and out motion is what pushes the clutch plates apart, disengaging it and allowing the engine to spin without driving the transmission and hence, the rear wheel. In the center of the throw out mechanism, there is a short threaded shaft that is the adjustment for the throw out. It is needed to allow for the accumulated manufacturing tolerances of the clutch pack, the case dimensions and all the other components that make up the clutch throw out components. Take the lock nut loose, and unscrew the adjusting shaft a good ways. If the parts are crusty and the adjuster does not turn freely, take it back apart and clean everything so it does. Reinstall the side cover, and the lever should still have the same tension as before - just the return spring. Screw in the adjuster until you feel resistance. The resistance occurs when all the slack is removed from the assembly and the clutch starts to disengage. You don't want this unless you are pulling the lever, so once you feel all the slack is gone, back the adjusting screw out 1.4 to 1/2 turn and lock it in place with the lock nut. After this is done, adjust the cable. This is similar in that you want almost all the slack out of the cable, but not so tight that you have the clutch partially disengaged. You should have about 1/4" of motion at the end of the lever before you feel the strong resistance of starting disengaging the clutch.
 
Also make sure the cam part is in there correctly, getting stuck engaged may be because the cutout is in the wrong spot causing it to rub on the notch
 
I adjusted the cable over and over, still nothing. Their strange thing, it changes gears without pulling the clutch lever. When it goes into gear, the tire does not spin.... so someone guide my thinking here, but if the clutch is in theory engaged, and allowing the transmission to go through the gears, then wouldn’t the rear wheel spin when it’s in gear?
Thank you all for the help btw, I really appreciate it
 
cb360j said:
I adjusted the cable over and over, still nothing. Their strange thing, it changes gears without pulling the clutch lever. When it goes into gear, the tire does not spin.... so someone guide my thinking here, but if the clutch is in theory engaged, and allowing the transmission to go through the gears, then wouldn’t the rear wheel spin when it’s in gear?
Thank you all for the help btw, I really appreciate it

it's a sequential gearbox, it will shift with the clutch engaged or disengaged

generally the trans/engine needs to be in motion for the bike to shift up past say 2nd or 3rd.

im going to go with PJs instincts and suggest that the clutch may not be properly assembled and engaging.
 
I should have rebuilt the clutch from the start, do not know what I was thinking.
What else should I go ahead and replace while I am down there? Any particular brand of clutch I should get?


Another question: Should The clutch be adjusted when the bike is in gear or out of gear? Or does it even matter?
 
There is no actual adjustment to the clutch itself, only to the throw out mechanism that operates it. If you have not had the clutch apart, probably it is ok.

Take the left cover back off (the one with the throw out mechanism on it) While spinning the back wheel, put the transmission in any gear. The wheel should stop because it is now connected to the engine which is not turning. If it spins when in gear, there is likely a problem with the clutch.
If it stops, leave it in gear and put the cover back on. If the wheel will now spin, it is because there is an issue with the throw out causing the clutch to be disengaged simply by being installed. Leave the cover on making sure all the bolts are installed and correctly tightened, and take the cable off at the hand lever so it will not interact with the throw out adjustment. Adjust the throw out by loosening the lock nut and backing out the adjuster until it no longer is pushing on the push rod. The clutch should now be engaged and the wheel will no longer be able to spin. Screw the adjuster in and out until you feel where is just contacts the push rod, then back off 1/4 turn. Hold the adjuster in place and tighten the lock nut. The throw out is now adjusted and will not need further adjustment until you start riding the bike. Now put the cable back on and adjust.

You transmission is not designed to work unless it is spinning so do not try to force it into any gear unless it is. There is a lot of free play between the engagement dogs of all the gears, so it often happens that a gear can be selected even if the gears are not turning, but it is not intended to be put in any gear while stationary. This is why sometimes it will readily click into gear, and other times will seem to do nothing. If you turn the rear wheel, it will always click right into gear.
 
When the cover is off, i can put it in gear and the wheel will not spin. When I place the cover back on, the wheel will still not spin. So does this mean it is likely that the throw out is fine?
 
The outside of your clutch basket is geared and linked to your crankshaft. The inside of the basket is linked to your counter sprocket. When you pull the cable, the mechanism on the left side of the motor rotates up onto ball bearings, which pushes the rod through motor and pushes the inside part of the clutch basket out, which releases pressure from the plates. The at rest position of the clutch is for the plates to be engaged, thus allowing the interior and exterior components of the clutch to spin together. If your wheel doesn't move because the motor is at rest and the transmission engaged, that means your clutch mechanism is not engaging.
 
irk miller said:
The outside of your clutch basket is geared and linked to your crankshaft. The inside of the basket is linked to your counter sprocket. When you pull the cable, the mechanism on the left side of the motor rotates up onto ball bearings, which pushes the rod through motor and pushes the inside part of the clutch basket out, which releases pressure from the plates. The at rest position of the clutch is for the plates to be engaged, thus allowing the interior and exterior components of the clutch to spin together. If your wheel doesn't move because the motor is at rest and the transmission engaged, that means your clutch mechanism is not engaging.


So if the clutch mechanism is not engaging, would the next step be to pull the cover off the other side and ensure that the clutch discs are not seized together or to ensure the clutch rod is pushing in the correct place?
If my understanding is correct, the clutch rod simply just runs through the transmission and can be removed quite easily by pulling it straight out?
 
Yep. It's just a straight rod. If the bike sat a long time, then there is a strong possibility the discs are stuck together.
 
Well, took the clutch pack apart. The front couples of discs weren’t stuck together but the back ones were for sure. Put them in some oil and they came apart but will probably buy a new one anyway.

Maybe try to find a CJ oil pickup while I’m at it in here.
 
cb360j said:
I should have rebuilt the clutch from the start, do not know what I was thinking.
What else should I go ahead and replace while I am down there? Any particular brand of clutch I should get?


Another question: Should The clutch be adjusted when the bike is in gear or out of gear? Or does it even matter?

why you are in the bottom end, replace the kickstart plate with one from a cj360 instead, they are more robust and designed to let you kickstart every time for the life of the bike. everyone has same issue, kickstart rattle once the plate fails. .. also doubling up on one of the springs is harmless.
 
Because the clutch wasn’t engaging, I’m not necessarily in the bottom end. Just have the the side cover off while replacing clutch pack.

Doubling up on springs?
 
'double up on springs' ? I've got no idea either. If plates were stuck, clutch wouldn't disengage. If it wasn't engaging (no drive) the assembly was wrong or adjustment too tight by a LOT. Heavy duty clutch springs are worthwhile but I've never understood the 'throw new parts and hope that cures things' majority seem to use. Clutch springs were barely adequate when new, if plates are in spec and not burned, no point in changing them.
 
crazypj said:
'double up on springs' ? I've got no idea either. If plates were stuck, clutch wouldn't disengage. If it wasn't engaging (no drive) the assembly was wrong or adjustment too tight by a LOT. Heavy duty clutch springs are worthwhile but I've never understood the 'throw new parts and hope that cures things' majority seem to use. Clutch springs were barely adequate when new, if plates are in spec and not burned, no point in changing them.

It was no longer in spec which is why I went ahead and ordered new with heavier springs as well. Plates were stuck (even after soaking in oil for a couple days), so it would not disengage.
I pulled the clutch rod and cleaned it well because the sprocket side was nasty. Cleaned the sprocket cover, and took the clutch mechanism apart (where the ball bearing is) and cleaned it well and added new grease just to make sure it is working properly. Now once I install the new clutch everything should work properly.
 
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