CB360 - Penelope

JRK5892 said:
man she is coming right along! i am really diggin this so far!


Thanks Joe! I appreciate the kind words, I've been watching your build too, nice work!

Slice said:
I have a feeling this build is one I should watch closely... got a good feeling its going to turn out nice! ;)
-Slice

Thanks Slice, I once dated a girl named Kiki, oddly enough she kind of reminds me of your bike...not the whole "bush league" status, but something about it...that probably makes no sense...haha!
 
Haha, I named her kiki as she is a little wonkie and a bit of a stubborn tramp when it comes to getting her back together... Thats awesome that you knew a girl with that name! Ive never known anyone with that name... The bush league is just becuase its a 'bush league operation' out of my living room! ;)

-Slice

The Red Wonder said:
Thanks Joe! I appreciate the kind words, I've been watching your build too, nice work!

Thanks Slice, I once dated a girl named Kiki, oddly enough she kind of reminds me of your bike...not the whole "bush league" status, but something about it...that probably makes no sense...haha!
 
Slice said:
Haha, I named her kiki as she is a little wonkie and a bit of a stubborn tramp when it comes to getting her back together... Thats awesome that you knew a girl with that name! Ive never known anyone with that name... The bush league is just becuase its a 'bush league operation' out of my living room! ;)

-Slice

Well that is definitely what it is that reminds me of her then...she was a "unique" girl...just like yours...haha! Thanks again for the kind words.
 
I am looking to buy some coils for my bike and I was hoping to get some information from some of you wise guys on here. What is the importance of secondary resistance in a coil? I think I have settled on the Dynatek's, either the DC3-1 or the minis, the DC3-2.

Info on each:

DC3-1 3 ohm primary resistance, 14,000 ohm secondary resistance
DC3-2 3 ohm primary resistance, 11,500 ohm secondary resistance (miniature)

The DC3-2 appeal more to me because of their size, but I don't know the importance of secondary resistance or the effect that it has on the performance of the bike. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Also, what about the condenser, use a NOS CB360, or is there a better setup out there to use (XS650??), I have tried searching but haven't come back with too much info, thanks!

I picked up a pair of ACCEL GM HEI Ignition modules for $25 delivered ;D on ebay last week...just need to round up some hall effect sensors and mount them on the cam, shooting for a DIY ignition set up like on Gretta.

Again, thanks all for all of the help!!
 
Well I got a few parts in, made a little progress, and ran in to some bumps....

I prepped the head, cylinders, and rocker box for paint:

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Pretty paint :)

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Just resting on each other, I still need to grind away the fins and polish them, but I want to let the paint cure for a week first:

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I went to re-assemble the engine tonight and found out that the bolt kit that I ordered from Alloy Boltz was packaged wrong, or had some bags of bolts missing...the first tell tale sign was the 4 sets of exhaust nuts. Also, none of the bolts were remotely close in length for the case :(
I hope you like the table cloth ;D

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Should I be worried about the change in color on the shift forks? It looks like they may have gotten a little hot...

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I know, another 360 with a Benelli tank...so typical...o well, I really like the look of this tank. I plan to chop up the bottom and get some more volume out of it

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GIANT TUNNEL AND UNUSED SPACE!

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Forgot about the clutch return spring that I had put in vinegar a few weeks ago...

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Luckily I had a spare, I was suprised to actually find metal in that bath of orange corrosion!
Check out how much material was removed, the spring is now far too weak to use.

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Does anyone know what this mystery part is!? I found it in the parts washing bin when I was emptying it out...I have searched the manual and assembly documents to try and find it in a picture, but I can't, any help would be greatly appreciated:

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Thanks for reading!
 
i want to say your mystery part has something to do with either the tachometer plug or the speedo plug, but i could be all wrong
 
Ian Oberholtzer said:
i want to say your mystery part has something to do with either the tachometer plug or the speedo plug, but i could be all wrong

yeah. looks like the engine-end of a tacho cable. The bit that engages in the drive?

something like this:

tachDrive.jpg



ian
 
bikeboy said:
yeah. looks like the engine-end of a tacho cable. The bit that engages in the drive?

something like this:

tachDrive.jpg



ian

Awesome! Thank you both, turns out I won't need that little guy anyways!
 
A few more CAD models, the rear shock is now a little more horizontal, resulting in a 1.6 rocker ratio

Full jounce:
Penelope3.jpg


Full rebound:
Penelope4.jpg


I need to crunch the numbers and see if this will be stiff enough. The spring rate on this shock is 8.6 kg/mm or 480 lbs/in.

Hope you like it, once I finally settle on something I will quickly fab that rear swingarm and polish out the rest of the frame mods. Thanks for looking!
 
So I talked with Alloy Boltz and realized that I am a retard, the kit isn't supposed to include the case bolts, so I went ahead and polished mine:

Before and after:

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Struggled to comprehend kick start mechanism, finally figured it out and got it back together...3 different manuals with confusing pictures!

I didn't like the way the return spring sat on the washer and on the case so I added an extra washer to push it in tighter to the case. Shouldn't interfere with anything, but should help keep the spring in place.

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This little pin is the only thing holding me back from gluing the cases together!! Does anyone know how to remove it? Or can I use a dab of silicone to hold the needle bearing on the transmission shaft in place. I want to make sure that it doesn't rotate, so that the oil passages line up. I have tried compressed air, magnets, PB Blaster...just about all I can think of. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

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Had an excellent birthday yesterday ;D, spent the whole day in the shop, then I was surprised by my girlfriend with a surprise party with all of my friends with an "exotic beer" theme...couldn't ask for much more! Here are the results of the shop day:

Step 1 -
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Step 2-
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Step 3-
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Step 4-
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Step 5-
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Step 6-
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Step 7-
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Step 8-
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Step 9-
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So happy with the results!

DRO for the win!
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The levers...ran out of day
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The goal:
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Thanks for looking, questions/ comments always welcomed!
 
The Red Wonder said:
So I talked with Alloy Boltz and realized that I am a retard, the kit isn't supposed to include the case bolts, so I went ahead and polished mine:

Before and after:

DSC01593.jpg


Struggled to comprehend kick start mechanism, finally figured it out and got it back together...3 different manuals with confusing pictures!

I didn't like the way the return spring sat on the washer and on the case so I added an extra washer to push it in tighter to the case. Shouldn't interfere with anything, but should help keep the spring in place.

DSC01595.jpg


DSC01596.jpg


This little pin is the only thing holding me back from gluing the cases together!! Does anyone know how to remove it? Or can I use a dab of silicone to hold the needle bearing on the transmission shaft in place. I want to make sure that it doesn't rotate, so that the oil passages line up. I have tried compressed air, magnets, PB Blaster...just about all I can think of. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

DSC01597.jpg

why are you trying to remove the pin? it holds the bearing in place and keeps the oil passage lined up, it would be very nasty if you rebuilt the bottom end sans pin. and if you need to take it out to bead blast and clean up the cases, use a rare earth magnet and it will come right out, it's a slip fit
 
rockcitycafe said:
why are you trying to remove the pin? it holds the bearing in place and keeps the oil passage lined up, it would be very nasty if you rebuilt the bottom end sans pin. and if you need to take it out to bead blast and clean up the cases, use a rare earth magnet and it will come right out, it's a slip fit

I think he wants to pull it out because it's not engaging in the bearing? It look to be flush with the surface. Not sure how that would have happened, but as it is it's ineffective.

cheers
ian
 
diesel450 said:
Look great!! Knock me out a set?!?!?!? :)

Thanks! Perhaps...it took me about 5-6 hours alone for the pegs, which could probably be cut down to 3 or 4 as with most things and repeating them. We'll see how they turn out when they are all done.
 
bikeboy said:
I think he wants to pull it out because it's not engaging in the bearing? It look to be flush with the surface. Not sure how that would have happened, but as it is it's ineffective.

cheers
ian

This is correct, I need to just lift it above the surface so that it will indicate that bearing in place. I have some pretty strong magnets, but no go. I think that I am going to have to drill and use a screw extractor to get it out...we'll see if it works, or drill and tap and then use a bolt to pull it out. I don't think that putting a small blind hole in it would hurt anything. Thanks for the ideas!
 
I was able to drill a hole in the dowel pin with an 1/8" carbide bit...then broke it...the hole was also off center and absolutely no help at all to getting the pin out. I am frustrated and I don't know what to do to get it out. The metal is so hard that nothing can hold up against it. I tried a screw extractor but, it was too soft compared to the pin and the pin actually cut away the screw extractor. The metal is also way too hard to even consider tapping. I have thought about welding something to it to help pull it out, but I don't know if I'd be able to do that with out hurting the casting. I read about a way of drilling a small hole and using hydraulic pressure to get it out, but that won't work because the hole is nowhere near straight. I might bolt it to the mill and just try and cut away the rest of the pin and get a new one. If anyone has any ideas at all, I am open.

On a better note, I finished the rear sets! I am super happy with how they came out. The brass toe piece was a last minute addition and I think that its sweet!

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SUUUPER nice surface finish :)

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One of the knurling wheels wasn't engaged on the second toe piece so it only cut with one, leaving it a swirl pattern which I kind of like a lot, it seems a little more unique than a typical knurl.

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Peg -> Brass insert/ lever arm -> bolt on shifter arm -> spacer -> bolt
The spacer presses up against the face of the peg and has a small step the same OD as the bearing surface on the peg so that the shifter can float around nice and free ;D

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Super pleased! I crunched the numbers for the suspension and found out that for a 2.0 hz wheel rate in the rear, with the spring that I have, the motion ratio is too stiff...need to redesign again. Tony Foale's book is awesome for these kinds of things! That's it for tonight, thanks for looking, any ideas for the dowel pin would be appreciated!
 
The Red Wonder said:
I might bolt it to the mill and just try and cut away the rest of the pin and get a new one. If anyone has any ideas at all, I am open.

You're doing everything I would try Red, with no reward for effort :mad:

It may be time to bite the bullet and take it to a shop to see what they could do? That's what I'd do next I think.

Hope you get it out soon. I hate these kinds of distractions, and I'm sure your patience is running out too.

Nice work on the rearsets too ;)

cheers
ian
 
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