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So I finally rode my cj360 other day and the clutch seems to slip at high rpm. Clutch grabs and seems strong at low rpm. I have adjusted it per service manual. I had about 1/4" of cable play and it didn't want to engage all the way so I tightened it a little more at lever seems fine just not at high rpm. Is it time for a new clutch?
ha! i was just dealing with this on my cj...but the cable seemed to have fixed the problem. if you have to replace the plates and springs...its pretty cheap. Good luck--sorry for no further insight, lol.
make sure the clutch lifter is adjusted properly. You can try bead blasting the plates too. I've had great results doing this and without resorting heavy springs. I bought a Kawasaki H2 with heavy springs and the heavy pull got old quick...
I re adjusted it today if I have a 1/2" of play at cable it barely pulls lever. I'm thinking that this lever isn't pulling enough cause when I have it adjusted with 1/2" play and I put it in gear it drops idle down then stalls. I have tried adjusting it numerous times. My clutch lever is just a universal lever. Any ideas?
I don't know anything about 360s apart from a motor hiding in my shop somewhere. The big issue I read about is trying to adjust the cable end when the problem lies in the left side cover. That lifter arrangement has to have sufficient free play but not too much.
The technique is to loosen the cable adjusters right off and then adjust the lift adjuster screw and then take up surplus slack in the cable.
what is everyone running for clutch levers on your 360's im having a hard time finding a lever and perch that is same dimensions as factory one without all the switches and mirror mount. i got universal one but the throw of the lever is like half of the stock one. thanks in advance guys
The clutch lever doesn't matter when it's adjusted properly.
So far I've only ever had a problem with one bike (Brendon's) AFTER someone else re built the clutch.
If it has been run with a slipping clutch there is a good possibility the plates are either burned or glazed (or both)
They may be salvageable but cover will have to come off to find out if they are still in spec.
Given the choice, I wouldn't bother to strip clutch and not fit heavy duty springs
What oil are you running? If its car oil make sure it doesn't have FMX friction modifiers in it. Made the mistake of that one time. And it takes a couple oil changes to get that crap out of your engine.
I pulled the clutch apart the plates arnt glazed or burnt but I lightly wet sanded them and installed new frictions and springs from ebc. The reason I believe the lever might be the problem is the distance from cable eyelet to end of adjuster is longer then factory lever thus slightly pulling the clutch mechanism. I Havnt ran it with new clutch yet but will layer today when I get some other things done.
Oil I was running castrol actevo tech 10w40 part synthetic
The lever isn't the problem. As pj already stated, "The clutch lever doesn't matter when it's adjusted properly.".
Also, switch over to mineral oil when you get a chance. There's no reason to use synthetic (or even part-synthetic) in these bikes. It's a bit too slippery for a wet clutch and the longevity you get from synthetic is wasted because you should be changing your oil every 1000 miles (1500 max) on a 360.
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