Can I SprayMax 2K over cured glossy paint?

trek97

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I think I fucked up...dont know what I was thnking.

I got in a hurry, busy painting tank, side covers etc. waited too long to spray clear coat fresh painted parts.

Now having to give it cure time (days and days)...

Will 2K peel off the glossy paint? Or, should I wet sand paint before I shoot w 2K?

Or, now what the hell do I do?

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While I don't know about this particular paint system, for most, there is a limit to how much time can elapse before you spray the clear.
 
Are you trying to clear coat over rattle can? Or is it a 2k single stage white? Either way you should sand with 1000 grit. Hopefully you don't have any problems using the 2k spray can clear over top of it. That stuff has so much solvent in it in order to make it sprayable that you have to be careful as it can react with whatever is under it.
 
Your not in bad shape. Spraying base and spraying clear while the base is still wet, being different products has a higher risk of reactions.

1000 might work for sanding 800 will for sure.

What you have to watch for is reactions still. You have to find out which type of base you used. Meaning if you used acrylic enamel base and then applied urethane clear then you might have a reaction where urethane base with a urethane clear is likely to be more compatible.. But you can also have problems with 2 urethanes with different manufactures.

That base needs to cure now for 2 weeks at least or risk further reactions as your base off gasses. What kind of sucks is you can gamble and use the different clear and it will look great but a month later starts to react.

Your least risk option is to use the clear that is the same product as the base and following the Cure directions on the base can.
 
Not a painter,, but I would suggest backing off to 12" minimum and allow the 2K to atomize ?? Maybe.
 
I'm not sure what the current state of affairs is.

If you are saying that you waited too long after spraying the base color and then shot the clear, then there is nothing to be done except hope for the best. However it depends very greatly what materials you used. Dedicated base dries very fast - like sandable (not that you would sand it) in 30 minutes if thin enough. It is not actually dry, but enough solvents have boiled off to be able to seal it in clear without trouble, and it is still "wet" enough to adhere well to the clear. Wait too long, and it gets too "dry" to attach to the clear.

If you have used anything else - like spray can - then the issue is similar, but likely you will have to wait a lot longer to be sure enough solvents have boiled out to safely seal it in clear. Very little can pass through the clear and you will get defects from the solvents trying to escape if you don't allow enough dry time. Then you have to sand to make a surface the clear can grab on to. If you have this situation and didn't sand, and the paint was dry and shiny, the clear will likely not be stuck very well. It does depend greatly on the material though. The base paint may be able to be chemically affected by the clear and maybe it is well adhered. In any event, there is no repair except to strip and start over, or leave it and continue hoping for the best.

Regardless, if you are happy with what you have now, and you want to add more material - stripes, decals, more clear, etc - you have to choose whether you accept what you have and will take a chance on possible yet to be seen issues and complete the work, or not risk putting good work on top of bad and start over. If you want to press on wit what you have so far, simply wet sand and continue. #600 wet or finer will be fine Opinions vary. In the main, to avoid trouble, follow these guidelines: If you are using a manufactured system, follow the instructions! Base/Clearcoat system are designed carefully and don't like being changed. Otherwise, if you know the materials are compatible, either let dry completely, sand and then continue painting, or spray wet on wet. If you are not certain of the compatibility, let dry extra completely, sand, and hope for the best.

For me, two things are certain about painting. One, it is incredibly expensive if you use pro material. This drives one to try to find a cheaper path using spray cans and mixing and matching materials. I think in the end it does not save much money - you get nickel and dimed to death. Two, painting is horrifically time intensive. And tiny things can trash the job and you start over, making it even more time consuming. So for me, the safety factor afforded by biting the bullet and buying all the right materials works out to cheap insurance. If you have to do it over, you will double what you spent saving money - could have been done by then doing it once with known materials.

The pictures look real good, so if your only worry is whether what you have done so far is going to stay stuck on, I say hope it does and finish it up. Just remember that you ALWAYS have to sand before you paint (except for the obvious exceptions i.e. dedicated base materials and other specialties)!
 
trek97 said:
I think I fucked up...dont know what I was thnking.

I got in a hurry, busy painting tank, side covers etc. waited too long to spray clear coat fresh painted parts.

Now having to give it cure time (days and days)...

Will 2K peel off the glossy paint? Or, should I wet sand paint before I shoot w 2K?

Or, now what the hell do I do?

11494-270615161753-13261985.jpeg

read the can, what is the re-coat window? usually 1 hour or XX days. Wait the long number minimum then wetsand and clear, be careful on the seams etc. You should be fine with it, worst case Ontario you hit it with stripper and try again. I have been there and had it go good and bad. I got a chip in a tank and fixed it only to have the whole tank go to shit... then I re-did it and it turned out awesome.
 
2K doesn't use that same type of solvent that other paints do. It's a two part paint that chemically hardens (a lot like body filler or epoxy). The best quality will still be achieved by allowing your color coat to fully cure and then wet sand it. It will help prevent outgassing and the sanding step makes for a smoother finish.
 
Thanks guys I gave her a few days of drying time. Wet sanded w 1000 then a few more days.
Shot the 2k. Turned out better than I expected it to. :D

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Looks awesome in the pics! Bet that gas cap looked a lot better before you painted the tank!
 
jpmobius said:
Looks awesome in the pics! Bet that gas cap looked a lot better before you painted the tank!

LOL I love it...forgot to order a gas cap. And in the beginning the gas cap WAS one of the nicer pieces!

Now considering leaving it "as is" like a mini "before and after"

Or I could "fix" it w an Ichiban sticker.
 
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