xs650 Sumotrack

Well I'm not calling it done yet, but it's a little closer. Number plate is painted to match the tank and the headlight ring is painted back pearl. I feel like it needs a number of something on it.
 

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For me the head light is too small with out a number or "sponsor's logo". ie too much effort went into the plate and no result. A logo or a number and I think you will have the tracker look nailed. Just my opinion of course, great bike all the same.
 
I agree. I'm using 665 or 667 on mine when it's finished (neighbor of the beast ;D )
 
Wow, this is the first time seeing this build.

It looks fantastic. But the sound of it is out of this world!!! 8)

Im a big fan.
 
Thanks everyone! I noticed last night that it's the BOTM, so I went and got some better pictures today.
 

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Well with spring on its way it is time to start fixing a few things that bothered me. Cold start cranking and warm up settings. I started out with the cranking settings to get it to fire faster when cold. This involved increasing dwell for the coils, adding fuel to the cranking pulsewidth, and adding an extra degree of timing advance.

Next was the easy part, once running let autotune start adjusting the warm up enrichment curve for me. Saves a bunch of time and simplifies things as there is no guessing.

So this will happen every first start of the day for the next few days just to get things going better. Part of it is below about 45* the lithium battery loses too much capacity and you have to "warm" it up by cranking 10 seconds then sitting for a minute.

https://youtu.be/fWA9-KnRrDI
 
While the Washington rains are here I decided I should fix the 1st gear issue. Sometimes under acceleration it'll try to pop out of first. In the fall I short shifted so I could do some riding, but really need to fix it before I get to riding. So best way to fix it is to undercut the dogs. I don't have a dividing head for my mill, or small carbide endmills that have a chance of cutting the hardened dogs. So the lathe, with the milling attachment and a flex shaft grinder were my tools of choice.

1st I made a piece to use the flex shaft grinder as a tool post grinder and mounted it in the milling attachment. Then to make sure I'm getting the right angles I dressed 12 chainsaw sharpening stones to be straight and true. Then using a test indicator set the grinder to about 1.5*, I went .007" drop over .25"(.005 over .25 is 1*). Next I dialed in one side of a dog and taking .001 or a little less each pass went down about .01 to get the corners cleaned up on the dogs and get the angle set. Repeat on the other 2 dogs.

Next I dialed in the opposite side of a dog and set the grinder for the opposite matching taper and repeated the process.

Finally, the part I'm still workings on is to use a courae diamond needle file to get the slots in 1st gear to match the now cleaned up and undercut dogs. After everything all the dogs and slots will be polished with a fine diamond lap and a very slight bevel on the edges for a good deburr.

This should get 1st gear to pull the engagement tighter under power rather than try to jump out, while the polishing should help it go in and out of gear when I want.
 

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Wow...just caught up with this build/bike, that's a good looking machine you got there.

While you're busy cutting gear teeth I'm making PTFE bearing dust shields out of flat sheet......there's a world of difference in shed built bikes haha!

Hope you sort the gear jump issue.
 
I'm pretty sure the gear jump is due to worn dogs. I'll go through and carefully set clearances before it goes in the bike.

Don't feel bad, if I hadn't gone to school for machining and gotten lucky finding a mill and lathe I could afford this bike would have never happened.
 
You need to check selector drum and fork real careful as well. After it's been jumping out of gear you usually find excess wear on the shift pin part of change fork plus maybe the actual 'point' in the drum that pushes fork across
 
Oh yeah. I have a fairly new fork in it, but the drum might have wear. I swapped to the spare gears and fork last fall and only got maybe 100 miles on them, but with anything over 1/2 throttle it would try to jump out of 1st. So for the little riding I did I would get moving and short shift to second. Hopefully the fork is still good or I'll have to get one. I do have a spare drum and I'll check it and the pins carefully.
 
It's been quite a while since I've had a 650 transmission in pieces, can't remember if it's possible to shim things for better alignment? May be worth checking case bore, location groove and shafts for straightness as well, seeing as your in there. Jumping out of 1st isn't normal (jumping out of second is way more common)
 
You can shim in certain areas. That is one thing I'll be checking before closing the case on it. I haven't run into anything about an XS coming out of second, just popping out of first and broken dogs on 3rd.
 
It's kinda generic on 'cross over' constant mesh transmissions, jumping out of second is more common because the lever movement from first to second is 'longer' so easier to 'miss' and damage 2nd gear dogs. This is mainly me 'thinking out loud' ;) I'll probably make a right hash of trying to explain it as I remember from 2004 or thereabouts. The XS has a relatively high (low?) primary ratio (crank to clutch) which puts more stress on the gears Most of the torque multiplication from gearing takes place in transmission rather than final drive and why XS has a small rear sprocket without much gearing option for road use. The 'normal' thing to do on most bikes is fit smaller rear sprocket but on XS yopu need higher ratio primary gears in high HP motors (plus the 'taller' 5th gear mod ) as there isn't room on hub for a smaller sprocket (I think 28 t is minimum that will fit?) The 'short rod' (447) motors were tuned for low-mid range torque for the US market to be 'quicker of the line' compared to earlier and European motors and were really only designed for a few years use (then buy a new one, can't keep factories going if things don't break down ;D ). Problem is, they made the damn things way too good 8)
 
Yeah. I'd love a set of the high ratio primary gears from Ivan Hoey, but thats $$, and I gotta save up. Thankfully those can be changed without pulling the engine later.
 
Yep, the price puts me off as well. Last time I checked they were about $500. I found Suzuki TL1000 primary gear is more or less direct fit (it has a friction idler to cut down noise- needs removing) I haven't found a clutch gear yet to modify though. Learned more about gears and gear cutting than I ever wanted to know, even toyed with the idea of making one from heat treated 4340 so it wouldn't need hardening but I think it's beyond capabilities of equipment I have.
 
Yeah, sometimes it is easier to pony up the cash than try to make your own. I could probably make them if I had a dividing head. But between time, material, and tooling I could buy a set that are proven and tested for less.

In other news 1st and 4th gear slider are undercut and polished, 3rd and 5th are swapped for xs750 gears for the larger dogs, and spare forks are on the way. So friday after work I'll swing to pick n pull to get a ford IACV since the one I have is too small, then time to pull the engine and get busy with the install.

While the engine is out I'll also install an XS1 cam. I wanted to dyno the bike first, but I also don't want to pull the engine again later.
 

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