25 years and I have never run into that issue. Not once. 5 different cities and at least 3 different suppliers.
Best entry level welder for fab?
- Thread starter CaferacerMO
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Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
J-Rod10 said:
Mine will take any and swap for same I always ask the guy for nice clean bottles no turds no bottle is registered or titled specific you just have a rental contract now
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We go through a ton of bottles at the school. It's amazing how many turds they send us. Had one the other day that had a half sheared valve on a 75/25 h.p. tank.
Also, a note on the oxy/fuel option. Make sure that if you go that route, go with an acetylene setup. While propane is cheaper and cuts nice, you can't weld with it. I'd hate for you to spend the scratch for a setup that you can't weld with lol
Also, a note on the oxy/fuel option. Make sure that if you go that route, go with an acetylene setup. While propane is cheaper and cuts nice, you can't weld with it. I'd hate for you to spend the scratch for a setup that you can't weld with lol
Some pretty good advice here.
Right. Ignore anything that is 110 volts.
Also ignore flux core. Shielding gas all the way.
Go used. Lincoln of Miller pro machines can be had used for nearly what new home owner machines go for and are likely to be a much better investment.
Be aware of potential bottle issues. I have lived in many parts of the US, and bottle policies vary unbelievably, and has changed where I live now from black to white. Very easy to have a paper weight. I currently own bottles and rent them. The rented ones required an exorbitant deposit, the owned ones require inspections and certifications over long time intervals. It isn't an actual problem, but can potentially add a very considerable expense. Your use likely will be fairly small so you can use a smaller bottle size as a potential cost savings.
Oxy/acetylene is a great choice also, though my own opinion is that one does not replace the other. I can't imagine not having both, but if I HAD to only make do with one, it would have to be the Oxy/acetylene rig.
Right. Ignore anything that is 110 volts.
Also ignore flux core. Shielding gas all the way.
Go used. Lincoln of Miller pro machines can be had used for nearly what new home owner machines go for and are likely to be a much better investment.
Be aware of potential bottle issues. I have lived in many parts of the US, and bottle policies vary unbelievably, and has changed where I live now from black to white. Very easy to have a paper weight. I currently own bottles and rent them. The rented ones required an exorbitant deposit, the owned ones require inspections and certifications over long time intervals. It isn't an actual problem, but can potentially add a very considerable expense. Your use likely will be fairly small so you can use a smaller bottle size as a potential cost savings.
Oxy/acetylene is a great choice also, though my own opinion is that one does not replace the other. I can't imagine not having both, but if I HAD to only make do with one, it would have to be the Oxy/acetylene rig.
What the hell is wrong with a 110v welder. I've been running a Hobart handler for years without issue. As long as you have a good 20 amp source and good wiring, they work great.
As far as the bottles, there are like 3 legitimate sources for gas. Damn good chance I've exchanged bottles with National Welders on them that is now AirGas.
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As far as the bottles, there are like 3 legitimate sources for gas. Damn good chance I've exchanged bottles with National Welders on them that is now AirGas.
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I will chime in if I may.
110v welders will do the job for several reasons. First, we don't know what power supply is available in his shop. Mine, for just one example only has 110 service unless a run it to my drier (wife wouldn't be happy lol)
Also the price point. 110= cheaper. I will tell you, with proper joint prep (which is often wildly over looked) and proper machine settings a 110 mig can handle up to 3/16" pretty easily. Tons of guys have used them.
I'm not arguing that a 220v would not be a vast improvement, but a 110 mig can surely handle the job for most fab concerning bike modding (again in my pinion)
110v welders will do the job for several reasons. First, we don't know what power supply is available in his shop. Mine, for just one example only has 110 service unless a run it to my drier (wife wouldn't be happy lol)
Also the price point. 110= cheaper. I will tell you, with proper joint prep (which is often wildly over looked) and proper machine settings a 110 mig can handle up to 3/16" pretty easily. Tons of guys have used them.
I'm not arguing that a 220v would not be a vast improvement, but a 110 mig can surely handle the job for most fab concerning bike modding (again in my pinion)
Exactly. I'm not saying 220 isn't better, but most normal households don't have a dedicated 220v outlet. More importantly, most of those welders will need a 50 amp breaker, which means the house will need 200 amp service. Amps is just as important as volts when it concerns a welder.DohcBikes said:
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Asking what's the best welder is a bit like asking what's the best oil or what's the best religion - everyone will have their own opinions. So, here's mine....
I use a flux core for most of the stuff I do.
To get decent results from a flux core you have to have good quality wire (yes - the flux in the cheaper wires can be inconsistent) and you have to prep the parts before you weld. I use a cup brush on an angle grinder to rip off any rust / crap beforehand. And the same cup brush to clean up the welds after.
You also need a consistent and controllable wire feed. This where most of the cheap welders fall down because their wire feeds have plastic bodies which don't last very long. And the feed controllers can be inconsistent.
Of course gas shield MIG and TIG are tidier and better by design for light gauge work but if you want a welder that you can just pull out from under the bench and weld a tab on a frame, etc, the flux core is going to get the job done quickest.
I use a flux core for most of the stuff I do.
To get decent results from a flux core you have to have good quality wire (yes - the flux in the cheaper wires can be inconsistent) and you have to prep the parts before you weld. I use a cup brush on an angle grinder to rip off any rust / crap beforehand. And the same cup brush to clean up the welds after.
You also need a consistent and controllable wire feed. This where most of the cheap welders fall down because their wire feeds have plastic bodies which don't last very long. And the feed controllers can be inconsistent.
Of course gas shield MIG and TIG are tidier and better by design for light gauge work but if you want a welder that you can just pull out from under the bench and weld a tab on a frame, etc, the flux core is going to get the job done quickest.
Why not go TIG? I bought the AC/DC version of this Eastwood welder 9 months ago and have been getting some really nice results with it. The only negative thing i can say about it is the regulator that came with it was pretty chintsy so i replaced it with something nicer. 60 day return period and a 3 year warranty is hard to beat.
http://www.eastwood.com/tig200dc-welder.html?reltype=2&parent_id=5572
http://www.eastwood.com/tig200dc-welder.html?reltype=2&parent_id=5572
If you go Eastwood, get this one. It's more than capable.
http://www.eastwood.com/tig-welders-eastwood-tig-ac-dc-welder.html?reltype=2&parent_id=26962
http://www.eastwood.com/tig-welders-eastwood-tig-ac-dc-welder.html?reltype=2&parent_id=26962
cqyqte
Grumpy retired oldtimer... "eat a Snickers bar"
Not going to speak to anyone elses set up or choice, but I will tell about mine. I have a Century Stick/TIG set up that I got from Princess Auto. Miller sells a similar portable model that looks damn near the same as mine. I bought the optional TIG torch and gas valve accessory and never hooked up the stick components, they are still in the box. I get my Argon gas bottles from TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) on an exchange program. With all expenses in I probably spent $550 not including things like gloves, 2nd autodiming Helmet, SS filler rods, Steel filler, and extra Tungsten tips.
The unit performs extremely well. When I first got it I practiced on stuff, running puddles, joining 90 degree welds, butts, filled holes, etc on lots of unimportant shit. The first time I used it on a build I tacked pieces in place and had a friend (ticketed welder) come to my place to use my unit to finish weld my stuff. He was extremely impressed by the little unit and infact bought one of his own to have to take on location when a big unit was limited by not having the proper electrical supply or hook up. Since then I have graduated to being confident enough to perform my own welding on critical pieces. I still mess around practicing on different grades of steel and stainless perfecting my confidence. That's the key, not necessarily the equipment but knowledge of what makes a good solid penetrating weld, and practice makes you better.
The unit performs extremely well. When I first got it I practiced on stuff, running puddles, joining 90 degree welds, butts, filled holes, etc on lots of unimportant shit. The first time I used it on a build I tacked pieces in place and had a friend (ticketed welder) come to my place to use my unit to finish weld my stuff. He was extremely impressed by the little unit and infact bought one of his own to have to take on location when a big unit was limited by not having the proper electrical supply or hook up. Since then I have graduated to being confident enough to perform my own welding on critical pieces. I still mess around practicing on different grades of steel and stainless perfecting my confidence. That's the key, not necessarily the equipment but knowledge of what makes a good solid penetrating weld, and practice makes you better.
cqyqte
Grumpy retired oldtimer... "eat a Snickers bar"
http://www.eastwood.com/tig200dc-welder.html?reltype=2&parent_id=5572 This is the link from two threads back and is very similar to mine. The Plus with this one is it has a torch control switch as well as a foot pedal. Mine is a scratch start and has no dynamic current adjustment, just a current dial.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
I have the AHP200 and it performs very well, with inverters you can weld with a 30 amp 220V breaker.
my-79-750-k
Therapy is expensive. Riding is cheap. You decide.
We use a Millermatic at the shop for a ton of work. The 240V machines run very nice, and depending on what size, will weld up to 1/2 thick steel with no problem. Opt for gas shielding as well to keep your welds from looking like crap.
