XS750 to XS896 big bore

Frame is off at the powder coaters. I am going with a gunmetal colour and a clear coat over the top. Unfortunately due to Christmas in the southern hemisphere coinciding with summer vacation it will not be done until late January 2018. :-\
It does give me time to finish the engine = replace broken piston ring, fit cam chain and polish covers.
 
Spent yesterday in the shed with the airconditioner on as we had one of our first real summer day.
The engine is now together with all the rings fitted and with correct orientation, but not without a battle. Having the cylinders bored out to take the oversize pistons the walls are pretty thin and there is not much of a taper leading the rings into the cylinders. I made up ring compressors out of PVC pipe and cable ties. It is necessary to have piston #1 at TDC and that leaves #2 and #3 evenly spaced at 60 degrees off BDC. #2 and #3 piston skirts are just entering the top engine case, so there is not much room for the ring compressors to be removed. To cover the rings and then be able to be removed after the rings enter the cylinders limits the height of the ring compressor to 14mm. Now its all together and I have also polished the ignition side covers and the cam cover.
 

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Looking very nice there, i like the black cylinders. I gave up on ring compressors and did it with my fingers mostly.. think i took the middle cylinder first though? Machinist left a little chamfer for me so wasnt too hard.
 
Recently had the head and cylinder off on the XS-Triple sidecar and did the re-install just by hand. I only very rarely use ring-compressor. Basically only on car engines as the rings are that much taller and harder to compress.
 
Who says men cannot multitask? ;D
I had to keep the slow cooker going today with a shoulder of lamb. It went on at 9am and will come off when I finish this update (5.30pm). The slow cooker was made out of old LPG gas bottles. 4.5Kg bottle for the firebox at the bottom and a 9Kg bottle for the cooking chamber on top, with a 63mm flue joining them. Cooks all day at 110C to 120C
Between stoking the fire on the slow cooker I finished the engine.
Cam chain rivetted
Head torqued down to spec
Clutch side cover and alternator cover polished.
Blanked off the tacho drive port ( I will be using the electronic pickup for my tacho)
Cam cover torqued down and fabricated an air deflector out of 1.2mm ally as that part was missing from the original bike.
Engine is now finished ready for the frame to come back from the powder coater's in a couple of weeks.
 

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Next step is carbies.
I am using a set of Makuni BST36SS flat slide carbies off a Triumph 900 Trident. These carbies are know for the slide guides wearing out, so I have bought replacement guides out of the UK.
I ultrasonicly cleaned the carbi bodies and soaked all the jets in throttle body cleaner. Lesson from ultrasonic cleaning carbies, never just through out the cleaning water. I found a few unexpected O rings and a very small washer in the bottom. After researching the carbies on the GSXR website I found where they belong. The air pilot screw has the small O ring and washer and the larger O ring seals the top cap vaccum port.
Also did some more work on the aircleaner cage and made up a new element out of grey foam.
 

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XS750AU said:
Next step is carbies.
I am using a set of Makuni BST36SS flat slide carbies off a Triumph 900 Trident. These carbies are know for the slide guides wearing out, so I have bought replacement guides out of the UK.
I ultrasonicly cleaned the carbi bodies and soaked all the jets in throttle body cleaner. Lesson from ultrasonic cleaning carbies, never just through out the cleaning water. I found a few unexpected O rings and a very small washer in the bottom. After researching the carbies on the GSXR website I found where they belong. The air pilot screw has the small O ring and washer and the larger O ring seals the top cap vaccum port.
Also did some more work on the aircleaner cage and made up a new element out of grey foam.
Good that you found time to investigate into the carbs!you will be very pleased how they perform!
How did you solve the missing choke mechanism,or did I miss something?

Make sure to replace also the Oring under needle jet (you need to tap the needle jet out).

Cheers and happy new year!
 
How did you solve the missing choke mechanism,or did I miss something?
Hi Ryan.
I came up with a pull rod with a spring damper. I changed the knob yesterday, to a bigger diameter as the first was too small (in photo) to use with gloves.
Make sure to replace also the Oring under needle jet (you need to tap the needle jet out)
Just to make sure I understand correctly. Are you referring to the O ring at the bottom of the white plastic guide, or is there another 0 ring in the black plastic slide with the needle?
I have ordered a seal rebuild kit, so they will be coming apart again.
Thanks
Tim
 

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Found this great guide to rebuilding the Mikuni BST36SS carbies, should have found it earlier!!!
http://didier.clergue.free.fr/gsxr/docspdf/mikuni_bst_understanding_carburetors.pdf
Started on the forks today. Anyone got an easy way to remove the fork seal???
I ended up using some heat, an 19mm open ended spanner and hammer (plus a 1.6mm ally pad to protect the fork tube). Got it out eventually.
Polished up one of the lower slider tubes. The original clear coat takes a lot of work to remove, I used a scotchbrite pad in my drill. It needed to generate some heat before it the clear coat would come off. Once the clear coat was off the polishing was easy.
 
If you heat the tubes up sufficiently, the seals should pop right out with relatively little force.
Thanks Nanno - 5 minutes more with the propane torch and it popped straight out with minimal effort.
 
XS750AU said:
Hi Ryan.
I came up with a pull rod with a spring damper. I changed the knob yesterday, to a bigger diameter as the first was too small (in photo) to use with gloves.Just to make sure I understand correctly. Are you referring to the O ring at the bottom of the white plastic guide, or is there another 0 ring in the black plastic slide with the needle?
I have ordered a seal rebuild kit, so they will be coming apart again.
Thanks
Tim
Hey Tim!

IRC there is an Oring under the wider 'mouth' where the needle enters the needle jet.
Check out the explosion diagram you will see!


Gesendet von meinem SM-A310F mit Tapatalk
 
Carbi rebuild kits arrived from Thailand, very happy with the quality and service.
http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Suzuki_GSXR1100.html
You could really feel that with the new O rings seating, which gives me confidence that there will be no leaks.
The vent tubes are now linked with a T fitting going into a single hose that I pushed 30mm of filter foam in to act as a filter. So carbies and airfilter are now completed.
I rang the powdercoater today, it was their first day back after Christmas and summer vacation. Frame is a couple of weeks away. Just got to get the tyres fitted on the rims. The wheels still have the original showroom tyres on them!!!
 

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Does anyone have experience of using a Digital Wideband O2 AFR Gauge & Sensor Kit when tuning jets after header and exhaust mods. The Triumph header I am using has the sensor port in it, and I was just wondering if these cheap ($200 delivered) units are accurate enough to help tuning. It would not stay on the bike and could be used for multiple bikes.
 

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I recently bought exactly the one pictured. Haven't used it though. I used a (borrowed) AEM Wideband in the past and that gave quite nice results. The thing is IIRC and that's why these are so cheap now and will get even cheaper: The Bosch patents on wideband sensor logic have run out (or are running out these days), meaning now other companies can manufacture the electronics without paying patent-fees to Bosch, which are quite substantial.

You'll need an M18xwhatever O2-sensor bung in your exhaust though. My old Triumph headers only had small bungs for EGT sensors as standard, yours might be different though.

Hope this helps
Greg

P.S.: Will be at least two-months until I will start working with my wideband as I first have to build two new exhausts for my bikes, as the current setups are just step gaps.
 
Yes, My Innovate O2 sensors proved to be my most valuable tool, dialing in jetting on my 76 CB360.
And like you, I just install them, ride the bike around when using them. Otherwise the are in the box.

They operate steadier making them easier to read when out on the road. They jump around when idling in the garage.
After a bit of getting used to, you can get a good average. For A/F mix at idle. Because, besides watching the numbers you're also listening for fastest idle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sVj0Goupoo&list=UUPCejEeqh-Sj0ya5AdXW6Jw&index=17
 
You'll need an M18xwhatever O2-sensor bung in your exhaust though. My old Triumph headers only had small bungs for EGT sensors as standard,
You are correct, my 1050 header has a M12 fine thread. Not sure there is enough meat to tap out to M18. ???
 
Picked up the frame from powder coating (Gunmetal Grey with clear coat) engine is in.
Need to get the hoops on the rims - this week.
Put a photo in of a bit of ball peen hammer work on the swing arm to try and get a little more clearance for a 120mm rear.
 

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