Ignition System Cutting Out Between Idle and 3000RPM.Trike Teaser Pic Added.

Yep,all less than 5000 miles.My 89 black bike had 4762 miles,92 purple bike has 3017,and the 92 red bike has 1865.The Tite Trike frame is a 90 and I don't know what the mileage is but it can't be much.That frame is pristine considering it's age.The other bikes that have passed through my hands, have all had less than 5000 miles, but most were neglected and abused.


Here's the purple bikes odometer.






Here's the little gem that I need.Suzuki uses shitty fasteners.Every bike I have worked on has had rusted fasteners.Even brand new bikes.I don't get.So I will be drilling these off in just a little while.

Cool... and yes that do use dodgy fasteners! They also supply dodgy R/R's...

I've just wired up a cheap Taiwanese copy of a good Honda R/R for mine.

The Honda ones are a bit more robust and have a sixth wire for a sense wire so they don't over charge or under charge.

I got the cheapy because it was new, cheap, and I could get it relatively quickly.

peteGS said:

Cool... and yes that do use dodgy fasteners! They also supply dodgy R/R's...

I've just wired up a cheap Taiwanese copy of a good Honda R/R for mine.

The Honda ones are a bit more robust and have a sixth wire for a sense wire so they don't over charge or under charge.

I got the cheapy because it was new, cheap, and I could get it relatively quickly.

Click to expand...

Is there one available for Suzuki?I think the one I just put on is bad also.
Voltages as follows.
engine off 13.46
Idle 1200 rpm 14.62
3000 rpm 13.90
5000rpm 13.78


This is really pissing me off.We have had good weather and I can't ride.

Those are odd numbers but within spec and enough volts at low revs for that to NOT be the issues. Darn it.

You don't have resistor caps and resistor plugs in there do you?

Yep.. Those numbers are good.

ben2go said:

Is there one available for Suzuki?I think the one I just put on is bad also.
Voltages as follows.
engine off 13.46
Idle 1200 rpm 14.62
3000 rpm 13.90
5000rpm 13.78


This is really pissing me off.We have had good weather and I can't ride.

Click to expand...

The other guys are right that the actual numbers are enough, so don't let me distract you too much with this

However, you can wire a Honda one up for a Suzuki which is what I did. Just remember than in Honda land, green is ground, red is still 12v, but black is actually the sense wire that needs to get hooked up to a 12v source somewhere.

I checked the drain on the battery to day.Spec is .60 mv max.I was at 2.6 mv.So my reg/rect is slowly draining down my battery.

That's not good. Have you got something extra on the bike that draws current even with the ignition off?

With the 6 wire R/R's, you need to connect the sense wire to a 12v source that's switched with the ignition otherwise you can have the same issue.

peteGS said:

That's not good. Have you got something extra on the bike that draws current even with the ignition off?

With the 6 wire R/R's, you need to connect the sense wire to a 12v source that's switched with the ignition otherwise you can have the same issue.

Click to expand...

My wiring is all stock.Nothing runs off the battery and the ignition switch shuts power off to everything.It appears that one of the diodes is bad.


I've been researching the make up of a 3 phase mosfet rectifier regulator and they seem fairly simple to build.The total parts cost runs around $15 to $25 depending on how precise someone wants the unit.Which leads me to the question,"why the hell do they cost so freakin much?"I know that companies buy the parts in bulk to reduce cost,and labor isn't that much per unit.I just don't get it.Places like Electro Sport claim they manufacture their own products in house.I guess I'll chalk another on up to corporate greed.

I got this 99% fixed today.I got a good reg/rect on the bike,which cleared up some of the problem.My bike is wired weird and I think that wiring the reg/rect straight to the battery may help eliminate some of my problem.I also think that wiring the coils directly to the battery,through a relay,will also help some.I did pull a shim out of the enrichment needles in the carbs.Didn't really make a difference running wise.The idle is a little slow to return after the throttle is blip'ed.We had strong winds here to day,22 sustained gusting to 40+ mph. I noticed that when I caught gusts from the side,it would stall my engine at idle,cause the carbs to cough at low rpm,and surge at mid range rpm while cruising.I think I have a solution to this but I'll make another thread about it.I was sitting in down town traffic,waiting for a light to turn green.A gust of wind hit me broad side from the left,and the engine stopped.I'm not talking about stumbled and shut off.I mean 1200rpm to nothing faster than a blink.I thought my engine locked up.I hit the starter button and vroom.OK.WTF was that about.Another gust from the left and same thing.I don't know if it's too much air being forced through the filter or if it's causing a negative vacuum across the carbs.I am running a completely open filter.It is some what protected by the frame.I don't really know what the issue could be,it just seems plausable in my pea brain,when it happens.

Glad you're getting there with it!

A common fix over on the GSR for the dodgy charging systems on the older GS' (sounds like yours is similar) is to eliminate the phase of the stator that goes via the headlight switch to the R/R which ends up with it basically going almost direct to the battery.

The coil relay solution is another common one too, so if you're having charging system issues I expect both will help.

As for the winds, I've definitely heard a lot about pods being affected by strong winds due to there being nothing to stop that extra air being effectively forced into the intake system. I expect the same with mine...

peteGS said:

Glad you're getting there with it!

A common fix over on the GSR for the dodgy charging systems on the older GS' (sounds like yours is similar) is to eliminate the phase of the stator that goes via the headlight switch to the R/R which ends up with it basically going almost direct to the battery.

The coil relay solution is another common one too, so if you're having charging system issues I expect both will help.

As for the winds, I've definitely heard a lot about pods being affected by strong winds due to there being nothing to stop that extra air being effectively forced into the intake system. I expect the same with mine...

Click to expand...

Today,winds were lighter and I had no running issues.I did get a little surge during a strong cross wind,while going through a small valley.I thought I would get rained out today,but I guess I got lucky.I just can't leave this alone until it's perfect.I had to knock off early and get my youngest son from school.He was playing nerf football in the gym,he missed a throw, ended up stepping on the ball, and rolling his ankle.He is in the hospital ATM.I had to stay behind to wait on the power company tree trimmers to come remove some trees.

I am still waiting to find some 10g wire before I do the R/R and coil wiring conversion.I think I saw a vid on youtube on how to do it.I can't find 10g wire anywhere.All I can find is 12g or smaller,4-0 and larger,and auto battery cable.I may have to break down and order a spool.I'm still considering a mosfet regulator.I think it will be beneficial on my "Lite Tourer" project.It'll have some electrical farkles on it.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d42.html

According to http://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html, 10g wire is good for 150 amps............or even 200 amps for 3 foot length. Where are you planning on using 10g wire?

teazer said:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d42.html

According to http://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html, 10g wire is good for 150 amps............or even 200 amps for 3 foot length. Where are you planning on using 10g wire?

Click to expand...

Thanks.

The couple things I have read on the conversion all use 10g going from the R/R to the battery.My R/R to battery wires will only be about 8 to 10 inches long.I figured 14g would be good for the coil conversion.I checked my parts stash, and I have every thing to do the coil conversion,except connectors.Usually it's the other way around for me.Now I just gotta find my dang soldering iron.

Since the weather has cooled off, I can't replicate the problem I was having.It's such an erratic issue.So I will do thorough maintenance and check over everything before I start modifying anything.