Re-doing the wiring for a '71 CB500... Bike runs fine and electric starter works great, but when I hook the (brand new) flasher relay into the circuit, I blow the 15A main fuse as soon as I switch on the key. I am NOT activating the flashers (switch is set to the center position), just turning on the ignition.
One issue may be that the unit I replaced as the OEM rectangular thermal flasher unit, which only had two wires connected (dark grey and white - green was DISCONNECTED). The wiring diagram in the Clymer book shows all 3 wires hooked up. Also, mt replacement unit only has one terminal labeled ("B"), which I tried hooked up both ways (with both the dk. gray AND the white wire on that terminal) - fuse popped instantly both ways. Green was DISCONNECTED for all tests.
Can someone tell me if:
1. I need a different (3 post?) flasher?
2. What terminal should be on the "B" post?
3. If a 2-terminal unit is OK, what should I do with my (unused) 3rd, green lead?
Last, and most importantly:
4. FAULT FINDING: Assuming the flasher is OK, could a fault up in the handlebars be causing the fuse to pop? I recently swapped the rusted-out handlebars on the bike and the signals would not flash (just steady on), and while I was not popping fuses with the old (non-functional) relay unit, I wonder if it had failed, essentially breaking the circuit and preventing the short, and now that I have a good unit in there, that's allowing current to flow through the fuse, causing the fault to show up? If I am indeed grounding inside the turn signal switch against the handlebars, I should be able to put a multimeter on the bar and the frame, and if that's the fault point I'll see voltage just before the fuse lets go again, correct?
Thanks! --Matt
One issue may be that the unit I replaced as the OEM rectangular thermal flasher unit, which only had two wires connected (dark grey and white - green was DISCONNECTED). The wiring diagram in the Clymer book shows all 3 wires hooked up. Also, mt replacement unit only has one terminal labeled ("B"), which I tried hooked up both ways (with both the dk. gray AND the white wire on that terminal) - fuse popped instantly both ways. Green was DISCONNECTED for all tests.
Can someone tell me if:
1. I need a different (3 post?) flasher?
2. What terminal should be on the "B" post?
3. If a 2-terminal unit is OK, what should I do with my (unused) 3rd, green lead?
Last, and most importantly:
4. FAULT FINDING: Assuming the flasher is OK, could a fault up in the handlebars be causing the fuse to pop? I recently swapped the rusted-out handlebars on the bike and the signals would not flash (just steady on), and while I was not popping fuses with the old (non-functional) relay unit, I wonder if it had failed, essentially breaking the circuit and preventing the short, and now that I have a good unit in there, that's allowing current to flow through the fuse, causing the fault to show up? If I am indeed grounding inside the turn signal switch against the handlebars, I should be able to put a multimeter on the bar and the frame, and if that's the fault point I'll see voltage just before the fuse lets go again, correct?
Thanks! --Matt
