CL175 Idles like its on crack

ok, and how do you know if theyre pulling equally? i looked through the manual, hope it isnt a dumb question.

I use a couple of straight lengths of welding wire or Cut two 6-8" long pieces from a wire coat hanger. Slip one under each slide with the air filter and boots removed and open the throttle very slightly. You can see which opens first

A pair of chopstick might work if they are exactly the same.

Ok, I'll do that next time I can get to her. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about with the float height measurement being wonky, the paper jig has a 21mm cutout and the float basically bottoms out there, did I measure it wrong? 21mm is the height I'm finding everywhere.

Idk why that's sideways...

That test piece should have fingers on it so that it measures to the gasket surface and yes the carb has to be on its side or at an angle. m You want the point where the spring loaded pin is just touched - not compressed.

Hi is this fixed yet?
Are the slides in the right way round ?you can put them in the wrong carbs left to right and right to left they fit but the cutaways wrong

Also the 1 1/4 turn for the idle screw is for bench setting ONLY once you have a running engine that's out the window if you need to you can wind them as many turns as is necessary to get 1200rpm

Been there. Before you go to more money and trouble, try switching the carb slides. I bet they are in the wrong cylinders.

oh - I see Teazer's already mentioned that.

Hey Guys, sorry for the lack of response on my end, its a pain getting my schedule to match my buddies who is storing the bike.

SO. I got the clymer manual and have read it front to back, very enlightening though I have forgotten most of it already. I re-measure floats, they're spot on. Checked points, they are right in spec and seem clean and free of corrosion. Installed a new throttle cable and checked the slides to see if they were backwards, which I was hoping was the problem. They seem to be in right and moving freely, cutaway facing the rear. I did start her up again and for a few seconds it seemed good and me and my buddy started grinning, then the idle slowly rose to its favorite of 1600 rpms. once it was warm it would start right up to the same idle.

also i havent checked advancer or timing yet. one of the screws holding the points plate is pretty mangled. those are next along with making sure the carbs are set equally the way teazer described.... and mess with the idle screws?? So I should be turning out the idle screw? to allow less air in?

Id love to bring the bike to my art studio where i'd work on it more but i'd need clip ons to get it through the narrow hallway as the clubmans are too wide (loosening the bolts and folding them back). anyone have a set for 31mm fork tubes? then i need to lower the gauges and headlight... but for now Ive been wanting to get it running before spending any unnecessary money.

to do an initial check the advancer just grab the points cam and it should rotate a short ways, same direction as engine rotation and return by itself,a very simple test, do this before any more carb tuning

I also have a 175 and the comment about making sure the slides are in the correct carb is intriguing me. Anybody got a picture how to tell which slide goes to which carb? Other than paying attention when you take it apart


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cutaway towards air filter

^^^^what he said^^^^ The slide fits the correct carb the right way, the wrong carb the wrong way.

xb33bsa said:

to do an initial check the advancer just grab the points cam and it should rotate a short ways, same direction as engine rotation and return by itself,a very simple test, do this before any more carb tuning

Click to expand...

So.... I wasnt near the bike all winter and just got back to it. I checked the spring. It springs. Turns just a little and pops back. So I have no idea where to go from here besides the repair shop and I dont even know where that would be haha.

any other ideas?