barn find 1969 cb350 mild bob (in progress)

wahvtec

Been Around the Block
Hello,

New to the forum and thought i would post my little project. I picked up this old bike from someone who pulled it out of a barn in South Carolina. She was crispy, but had just over 3000 original miles, good compression, and obliterated diaphragms. I also picked up a 1971 cl which had been torn apart beyond repair by the previous owner for parts ($150). This also came with a disassembled cb125, and ca160 they needed removed for free. Anyway two and a half years of slow progress and cash flow i took her for the first ride this past week. Having a blast but lots of work to go. So far ive really only done the neccesities, (forks, carbs, points, rubber, brakes, cables in progress), and added a tag/brakelight mount i welded together. More to come but here's some pics one being when i got it poorly taken in a bedroom, somewhere halfway, and where she sits now.
 

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another pic of the rear for funsies. Got bar ends and speedo cable on the way as i seem to send DCC all my disposable income, so now every single thing on the barn bike works except the neutral light, and the gauges are a little jumpy. Toying around with the idea of forward controls, but mounting seems to be interesting on this bikes. Also electronic ignition is next. I've read about the various brands, but a lot such as newtronics, and others seem to be "in redevelopment". Has anyone recently gotten a pamco or one of the other competitively priced units? Also front meaty tire with CL 350 fender took a little "fitment"
 

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Thanks! Shes not pretty but i really wanted to ride and get a feel for the bike this season before making my next moves. So far what I've realized is those apes from the 60's have to go for some drag bars. I don't feel very in control with my arms shoulder high. Next spending will be bars, headlight mounting, swap to my cleaner headlight, and some less Japanese turn signals to give the front a better look and make it drive like the light bike it is. After that the rear end will get purdied up. Either way im really enjoying having gears after 9 years of riding a scooter. ^your honda 400 project looks awesome. Im curious to see how smooth those honda 4's run compared to the twins.
 
I hate to be a downer, but I foresee those oversized tires doing some rubbing at one point or another, and they sure won't help contribute to your desire to make it "drive like the light bike it is". Still, I'm interested to see what you do with it!
 
yeah hindsight is 20:20 and i got the tires online so i wasn't aware the shoulder was so pronounced. Im also learning that bigger isnt better. In another thread i mentioned i wish i had gone one size smaller in the front. Im gonna ride it out this season around town as I work out kinks, but it will be replaced. I inspect it after every ride, and so far it hast even taken the little nobbies off yet. The rear has tons of room, and im quite happy with it. Its a learning curve, but for now having it move under its own power is a start, and this forum is helping alot. Thanks for the comments guys, and not a downer at all, I'm here for the info to make it right! Hopefully I can get some parts ordered soon and get some progress pictures
 
Got the new bars on and have been enjoying the ride for the past few days. This bikes been running great around town on shorter trips. But today i took it for a nice long ride. Did great for around 30 mins then it bogged down and stalled. White smoke came out of the breather and the head seemed hot, while the cylinders seemed fine. Valves were also a little louder. I got it home let it cool down and cranked it with the same result. Previously I opened the oil check bolt on the left side of the engine and it sprayed out plenty of oil while cold. I suspect the right side head (which seemed warmer at breakdown) isnt getting oil when hot, but is fine when cool-warm. Oil filter had very few fine metal shavings, and neither spark plug indicated heat. I guess its time to man up and pull the motor. I have a spare engine so I have a spare valve train and head. Hopefully I can get by with piston rings, and new tension er as well as whatever the head needs now. Am i over reacting, or is this the proper course of action. Because it cranks now still bogging and nosier I dont want to risk damaging anything lower than the head. In better news pic of the drag bars.
 

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The increased valve noise is not dramatic, but noticeable. Is that what indicates the increased valve clearance? Im willing to bet if i can get to the cam bearings I will see some discoloration. Is there any way to check that before pulling the engine from the frame? I can only imagine the dropped idle is the cam being harder to turn. I dont believe I can get the valve cover off with the low frame clearance.
 
I dont have a feeler gauge here at school. It ran fine under throttle but as soon as i slowed for the light it took a lot of nursing to keep it going and once I was safely pulled over the white smoke came from the breather. I just took a look through the tappet covers and plug holes that nothing was blatantly damaged. Hopefully I can get a hold of one
 
Hey man.......nice little bike.....hope you get things straightened out.
 
Thanks! It will get straightened out I hoped to make it through the season but the engine hasn't been opened other then the side covers. Im going to start pulling the engine today, and see if I can pull the valve cover and inspect the cam bearings, and chain tensioner. I'll post pics. Kinda bummed it likely wont be ready for barber fest, oddly looking forward to opening up the engine. I hope i don't get laughed off my scooter at barber and i will not be doing the ton on it.
 
decide to pull the cam chain tensioner and snap a pic of the wheel. Its bad, but not too bad. I also checked the points timing and they seemed to get power at the right points. The bike starts at first kick but sounds like crap. I noticed i could get one turn on the crank with the plugs out easily and on the second it seemed much harder. Everything rotates fine till around the point when the right side exhaust valve begins to open then it snaps open and back to easy turning. Not sure what thats about but heres a pic of the tensioner.
 

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So it looks like my guess was right. The right cylinders side of the cam seems to have not been getting as much oil as the left. You can see a difference in the photo below. Metal shavings were underneath the right side, but none under the left. Im hoping maybe that right side cam bearing/tach housing is causing the binding. It looks black in comparison to the points side. My question is if oil is properly reaching the left side of the head, what would block it from the right?
 

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Removing the engine was enough for tonight. I'll work on the head after i read through the honda manual again on the procedure. I'll need to make sure the cam and rockers are in spec. Just odd to me that one side was dandy and the other was starved. Hope too many parts arent destroyed. THe spare piston locked engine may come in handy.
 
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