A Good CB360 "Clutch Pop" Fix

raptormeat

Been Around the Block
so after scouring some other forums, and maybe its been mentioned but I have found what seems to be a permanent fix for the "clutch pop" problem.

All you do is put a decent sized lock washer behind #7 in this diagram (as in closest to the outer left casing), moving the ramp further towards the push rod and actuator mechanisms. This closes any free room that the 3 ball bearing piece had to "jump" from the ramps outwards.

Screen_Shot_2014_06_07_at_2_46_01_PM.png


when you go to adjust the flathead screw and locknut outside, there will no longer be a "loose" feeling to the double sided bolt, just tension and a lot of tension. If you can feel out when it is engaging the pressure plate and set it correctly (1/4 turn back from pushing the plate) you will be all set. I tried everything until this and havent had a pop in 2 weeks so far with heavy riding. Thank god for the internet.

I think a regular washer would work as well, but a lock washer keeps some tension on the #7 piece.
 
Without a little free play, your clutch rod will have pressure on the rotating release bearing (Clutch Lifter Piece) and the tip of the clutch release rod) . It will wear it out both pretty quick. It may also be reducing the pressure on the clutch plates, causing clutch slip.

A jumping clutch mechanism is a poorly adjusted clutch. Adjusted properly, they will not jump.

Your solution is not a good one, as it will cause excessive wear. You do not need a washer of any kind as the double ended bolt allows proper adjustment.

Please don't do that....It is not a good idea.

To properly adjust the clutch for the best results, follow this thread: http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html
 
I think a lot of the clutch pop issue now is that most aftermarket cables are made incorrectly. The internal cable is too short which makes the arm on the actuator in the wrong place to start with. Fixes are many but if you start with the the right cable you shouldn't have any problems.

I have an OEM cable on my bike, I follow the same process Myd listed. Never had any issues with the clutch popping.
 
thanks for the input guys.
lo and behold, my clutch started popping today, hence this "fix" is not a good one...

HOWEVER i did ANOTHER mod which seems to be working better, per others advice on Honda Twins.

i do have a motion pro cable and due to the outer casing being too long for the inner cable, i fixed this by removing the upper adjuster locknut on the left handlebar which pulls the outer cable casing further into the handle, hence allowing more of the inner cable to dip into the clutch cover casing.

this lowers the extender arm fully, granted you lose the ability to adjust your upper handle, but that shouldnt be an issue if you adjust the locknut and double sided bolt correctly. this seems to be working much better and smoother. no locknuts required.

so take it all with a grain of salt.
 
Just found this thread, after figuring out the same issue with the motion Pro cable. It's exposed cable length is too short- remove the locknut on the clutch lever and you're set.
 
Personally, I think the idea on this thread may be a good one, despite someone saying it's not. Bottom line, there are no aftermarket ramps... and ALL of the actuator ramps are worn out. I've tried a few things, including extending the clutch rod with a nut or washer, but I'll give this washer idea a go. I get that there is a "sweet spot" for these, but it's just poor design to begin with. Even if wear occurs, it'll be minimal, and a good excuse to machine a hydraulic slave cylinder in place of this lever ramp nonsense.
 
Back
Top Bottom