1977 CB750 Deviant Hell Ride

I have dual front single rear disks on a vintage 500 pounder + my 200 pound self... Stops good for an old bike but not anything to write home about. Still get a little pucker if something sneaks up on me.
 
Ellwood said:
I have dual front single rear disks on a vintage 500 pounder + my 200 pound self... Stops good for an old bike but not anything to write home about. Still get a little pucker if something sneaks up on me.
What's the bore size on the M/C? You may not be pushing enough for the dual discs. It should be at least 16mm.
 
All factory vintage brimbo... You should've felt them before I put stainless brake lines on. Master Cylinder is under the tank on the old airhead. Probably not pushing what I could... I guess now I am comparing them to my new bike. The cb350 was the worst with the drums. But a wing is a heavy bike especially in the rain and going into a tight corner... But they say they really handle well.
 
Did a little cleaning to test out an aluminum boat hull cleaner on the motor. Spray-sit-rinse. Wiped the chrome, bodywork and brake discs with phosphoric acid... Not too bad. I have no interest in a pristine polished and painted motor. Just clean. A little patina is good.

Before...

5ca9a0bfd9309c23f5d8b0c10cf28db6.jpg

b00486a60f20b62fef120cc7b38eb8fa.jpg


After...

7b4aab499fd4e2c1aee317498b69aa8a.jpg

a8ba1b5f473ca29221bce420e575c183.jpg

24fe08842dac0b5981a63af8de14ac2a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Worked pretty good, but you aren't really gonna leave it like that... are you ;) If you don't plan to do any motor work, I would pull the cam chain tensioner and make sure its free, I have had many that are froze and you think when you loosen the release it springs forward but actually does nadda mang... Just a heads up if you weren't already aware.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Worked pretty good, but you aren't really gonna leave it like that... are you ;) If you don't plan to do any motor work, I would pull the cam chain tensioner and make sure its free, I have had many that are froze and you think when you loosen the release it springs forward but actually does nadda mang... Just a heads up if you weren't already aware.
Thanks, man. Yeah, it's had head work done to it. All the valve seated, heads shaved, resealed etc. Tensioner has been fiddled with, it was off when I got the motor.
 
I like the aged finish on engine as it is in the pic. but, who the hell am I ?

Shes really looking like a beast dude, lovin it.
 
Shimmed the front sprocket. Converting from 630 to 520. Volkswagen Bug pulley shims are the perfect size. 25mm ID. Next up: I need to research the best way to move the rear sprocket out. Basically, the outside of the rear sprocket lines up with the inside of the front sprocket.

Honda left, Kawi right
c48741e857a631643ef5766210a7942b.jpg

81cbdec58d016aead2ec2765ecb510d3.jpg

494c4fbfa1f9b1737f267dbc5343ad8c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This may be spendy but correct to get to 520 and use the stock hardware:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/engine/products/17-tooth-sprocket-520-chain-for-cb750-cb550-cb500t-1
 

Attachments

  • 520 swap.JPG
    520 swap.JPG
    37.5 KB · Views: 974
Tune-A-Fish said:
This may be spendy but correct to get to 520 and use the stock hardware:
http://cognitomoto.com/collections/engine/products/17-tooth-sprocket-520-chain-for-cb750-cb550-cb500t-1
I suppose I can look at a combo of that sprocket and shimming the rear sprocket. I need to make up 11mm. The inside of the rear sprocket lines up exactly with the case. I need to figure out minimum clearance for the chain between to the sprocket and the case. Reading the KZ forums (since there are no offset rears sprockets for KZ or GPZ and this is a GPZ rear) guys shim the rear and replace the studs with longer grade 8 allen bolts. I say this assuming 11mm is too much to make up with shimming the entire rear wheel.
 
i used devins 10mm offset sprocket on my 73 cb750 to line up the mags i am using
 
cxman said:
i used devins 10mm offset sprocket on my 73 cb750 to line up the mags i am using
My shaft has the threaded center, so it doesn't use the retainer. Can this sprocket still be used?
 
Dayyyyyum.... Eric......your garage must be air conditioned, or you're just oblivious to heat.

It was 104 degrees out today, and in my garage, it's 119. And that's as I type this message.

Hell, I can barely stand to go to the frig out there to get a beer.

But....all in all....hope you figure out the sprockets. Just one question .....why convert to the 520 chain?
 
budlite282 said:
Dayyyyyum.... Eric......your garage must be air conditioned, or you're just oblivious to heat.

It was 104 degrees out today, and in my garage, it's 119. And that's as I type this message.

Hell, I can barely stand to go to the frig out there to get a beer.

But....all in all....hope you figure out the sprockets. Just one question .....why convert to the 520 chain?
I have an a/c in there, but it doesn't really do a lot when it's this bad. I opened the door and worked for about 30 minutes. No more than that. I really is hot as hell right now. The 520 is less bulky. It also seems easier to convert the front sprocket to 520 than the rear to 630.
 
deviant said:
My shaft has the threaded center, so it doesn't use the retainer. Can this sprocket still be used?

I would think so, the spline is the same, I can measure the thickness of mine in the fall when hell leaves my shop ;) or in the morning :eek:
 
for the offset rear you can gain some by making a stacked offset out of 2 sprockets but it really requires a lathe to make it a clean lash with minimum weight.what does the rear hub use as a center for the sprocket ? if you move it 11 will it still be on the centering register ?
 
I flipped the shims to the outside, which gets me to sprocket width- 9mm. Those Cognito Moto offsets go the wrong way. I need to move 9mm in, but there is only 8mm between the sprocket and the case.
04461478318b5986250efa716244f68b.jpg


xb33bsa said:
for the offset rear you can gain some by making a stacked offset out of 2 sprockets but it really requires a lathe to make it a clean lash with minimum weight.what does the rear hub use as a center for the sprocket ? if you move it 11 will it still be on the centering register ?

No room on the centering register unless the hub can be sleeved to extend the register. I have 11mm from the face of the sprocket to the edge of the hub and 20mm to the swing arm.
8694988050b58cdf8dcf4c0966244f2d.jpg


Are you saying to weld the two together and machine it down? I assume that would require it to be hardened again.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As far as hardened rear sprockets go...

this may be totally F-ed up information. But havent I read once that some have aluminum or even PLASTIC rear sprockets. Maybe Im just trying to take you out ;) ...but I think Ive read that. On the "internet".
 
Back
Top Bottom