1977 CB750 Deviant Hell Ride

deviant said:

Got Mr E to do some machining on the rear sprocket and carrier. We cut a stock GPZ sprocket down to make a spacer. Then he machined the draft out of the hub on the carrier. We figured out that the cast on these are nowhere near perfectly concentric. After machining, it is now. He also machined a sleeve to extend the shoulder and accept the offset. New 630 sprocket to match the stock 7fitty.

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Very slick. Nice solution!
One big step closer to Vroom.

How'd you guys set up the carrier in the lathe? Looking at taking a few mil off of a sprocket carrier for a future project and wasn't sure of the best way to get it in the lathe.

Not an ounce of giveup here... bravo gents

CALfeRacer said:

How'd you guys set up the carrier in the lathe? Looking at taking a few mil off of a sprocket carrier for a future project and wasn't sure of the best way to get it in the lathe.

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Spread the jaws from the inside. The fins on the carrier fit nicely to the outside of his chuck.

just remember to and or learn yourself to use the method of a long bolt or allthread is pertfect clear thru the headstock to help a great great deal in securing esp large diameter pieces so trhey dont jump out of the chuck,od shaped pieces can be machined out near their major dia with the confidence that an delicate grip by the jaws alone wont fail nothing worse than a part like a sprocket carrier,sprocket,maybe a mag flywheel to be grabbed by a nivices mistake like a hooked tool to low on center for instance.it can get real ugly real quick.shit happens so fast shit get broke all to fuck and if anybody is in the shop or watching its like how you feel in that dream that you went out buck naked one day all day... i have on occasion hit the brake and barely saved a spit out part .and all this is why it is extremely good practice to use a draw bar on anything with a decent diameter to turn...another method,many times when dealing with a part like a wheel hub or even a complete wheel and say you want to true up the brake drum well you make a spud, an arbor or better yet a " mandrel" is more correcter tirminoligy,that goes into your 3 jaw and tuned to a have a shouder to contac faces,the draw bar bolt thru the headstock holdes the spud dead nuts tight and secure up against the jaw faces as well of the jaws clamping then you can then turn the spud to mimic a wheel bearing (including the corner radius,but maybe a thou under,it neednt be a press fit..you m,ake it long enough so it gets pulled tight and seated just as a wheel bearing.you drilled and tapped the spud all the way thru so the draw bar holds the spd the a shotr bolt holds the part onto the spud
you turned the spud to be same as a bearing and it is automatically dead nuts zero concentric so you dont even mess with the jaws or nuthin cause the hub will spin prettier than yer first gooey girlfriend.and you can drill a center hole in the spud bolt head as a final step so you can get even more safer and secure.not for novice machinists but you can bolt in a 4x4 10" long say oak wood chunk with the drawbar and good contact with the chuck jaws faces.well then you can turn that wood down to be a nice tailstock pushing fit and machine a fresh cylinder base or the head gasket surface such as we used to do to hotswas that have an integral head in order to tighten up the squish

Sprocket installed with just a couple of mil to spare. Bolts ground to about 48mm. I may go with low profile nuts and take it down about 3mm more.




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Im thinkin yes, thinner nuts. Is that 2mm w the axel tight?

Everything is tight, ready for the chain. I'm confident clearance is plenty on the nuts and bolts as it is. The sprocket and wheel are true. The gap at the pinch in the swing arm is the biggest concern and there is even more clearance there. I have 5mm high nuts coming in from McMaster as a second option to these I already had on hand.

Just sayin, I want to see you in Kentucky next spring...thats all. Its only cause I care.

deviant said:

Everything is tight, ready for the chain. I'm confident clearance is plenty on the nuts and bolts as it is. The sprocket and wheel are true. The gap at the pinch in the swing arm is the biggest concern and there is even more clearance there. I have 5mm high nuts coming in from McMaster as a second option to these I already had on hand.

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Shunt flex that much unless your planning to launch it with sticky tires on hot asphalt

Tune-A-Fish said:

Shunt flex that much unless your planning to launch it with sticky tires on hot asphalt

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Pretty much how he rides everything, all the time.

trek97 said:

Pretty much how he rides everything, all the time.

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Nice! WFO till the gas runs out

looks fine the carrier could get worn and sloppy and stll it wont move that much. i never liked those lock tabs you dont need them or a washer ,loctite and you can get more clearance or a thicker nut .thinner nut is a poor choice in this type of application as the assembly relies on a highly torqued fastener to get the non slip grip of the mating surfaces the bolt in just shear is not how it is designed to work it is the friction of the mating surfaces
other methods :thin the sprocket in the lathe in the zone of the nuts or spot face countersink at the nuts
one way to see how much room there is is to put it up on the centestand and while spinning the wheel get your finger real close for reference :-X

2003 Ninja controls




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I remember when you picked her up from E, but somehow missed the build thread.
All caught up now though

Sick stuff Dude. Cant wait to see her in person.

Redbird said:

I remember when you picked her up from E, but somehow missed the build thread.
All caught up now though

Sick stuff Dude. Cant wait to see her in person.

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Thanks a bunch, Redbird. Hoping to have it running for Barber. It's expected to get knocked over in Kiley's yard.

I was hoping you'd say that. Lookin forward to seeing her and you.
And I wouldn't worry about it getting knocked over. Tom will only be there in spirit

E can put stickers on it for you, my wing won't be there for that.

Small little update: it's getting into the nickel and dime stage. Installed a new clutch cable and the Randakk oil filter mod. Plus a Wix filter, to complete the proper setup.




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deviant said:

Small little update: it's getting into the nickel and dime stage. Installed a new clutch cable and the Randakk oil filter mod. Plus a Wix filter, to complete the proper setup.

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I sourced a similar conversion tapped for an oil cooler, seems the Harley filters cross the emgo that came with mine. May try a test with the thing plugged then with the cooler after a break in run.