CB360 - restore, maintain, ride

pkoster said:
Did I just go from too rich (with filters) to too lean (no filters)?

No, its too rich w old paper filters cause they are old paper filters.

It will also go rich w no filters/pod filters. These carbs are vacuum operated. I believe w no filters it goes rich because the difference in air pressures cause the slides to lift too early, allowing the main secondary jet to become operational prematurely. This dumps a bunch of un-needed fuel into the system before the rpms are ready for it. Thus rich midrange rpm. Once engine has gained enough rpm to use this extra fuel then it runs better again...above 6-6500 rpm.

here are a couple carb write ups I made about this exact situation. PS. Once I decide to take a break from the CL100 project I have an experimental pair of main primary nozzles I recently modified to solve this issue.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63133.0

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60728.0
 
I went over the pics I took of the carb & jets when I did my spring cleaning...

One thing I notices, my diaphragm springs are about 5.0", in your posts they are about 5.25". Not sure this has much impact, but I would guess my needles may lift a littler earlier.

Keihin jets:
pilot: 35
main: 68
secondary: 100

I notice that my A/F mix adjustment is not very sensitive. I can be about 1/2 a turn without much impact (done hot on center stand).
 
That screw is mainly for idle mixture. Not a real big deal if things don't change much at idle, the goal is just to find the highest RPM of each carb and leave it alone after that. Make sure you are resetting the idle once you adjust one side.

Do make sure you are idling at around 1200 or a little lower when you set them and that the throttle valves are CLOSED. Those adjustments mean very little if the bike is not at an idle, as soon as the throttle valves open the carbs bypass that setting.

Kinda sounds and looks like you have dirty filters. Take a filter outside and point the filter at the sun and look through the intake boot. Should be able to see daylight very well through it. Not a scientific process but it is a good way to tell how filthy they are.
 
Over a period of 30+yrs, the fibers in the original paper filters 'swell up' due to water vapour in the air
NOS ain't usually too bad as long as they were kept in original packaging but 'new' new or re-built with foam filter material will work much better
 
Did my air filters:

- removed all the paper from old filters. I used a box knife and pliers then I used a dreamel with a sanding head to reduce and smooth out the surface. It wasn't perfect but good enough.
- cut the uni filter just a little wide. I think it was 2 3/8" by 12".
- installed then in the frames using just pressure. Oiled then up, I got the spray oil.
Back in the bike a ready to try out tomorrow assuming the rain holds off.
 

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Very nice job! Ive seen dumpsters cleaner than the first filter pic. You should see a performance increase above 6k rpm now. Exhaust note may even sound different. :)
 
So are you able to remove those elements to clean them? Also will they have to be oiled like other foam filters?
Edit: ignore. I caught the stupid.
 
Spring Cleaning #6 - Front Brake pads

It rained all day Sunday so no chance to test out the new air filters. I decided to install the new front brake pads instead.

- Just followed the manual
- removed the old pads - see pics of old pads and state of calipers
- cleaned up the calipers - just wiped them clean
- I greased up the back of pads and frame as per manual and installed
- I noticed there was a plastic washer in the brake kit that fits over the center part on the back of pad A (the one on the piston side). So I included this when I installed it. I thought I read somewhere that this was supposed to help reduce squeal.
- readjusted the caliper alignment with the stopper bolt as per the manual.

[edit] I also noticed that Pad A had some uneven beveled edges on it. Not sure where those came from, maybe this was the PO's attempt to stop squeals.
 

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Spring cleaning #7 - Carb sync

Since it was raining I thought I would re-sync the carbs now that they have the new filters on them. Attached a pic of my DIY manometer. For those interested here is a video of the event ;) .

Cheers,
Peter
 

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I would keep using those pads, they are barely bedded in (and OEM work well on 360's, even when 35+ yrs old)
Carb sync is sooooooo easy with correct tools ;D
 
crazypj said:
I would keep using those pads, they are barely bedded in (and OEM work well on 360's, even when 35+ yrs old)

They've been squealing like a stuck pig. When I had the rim off I removed the disk and sanded it with wet/dry (80 grit I think) using an orbital sander. Still squealed... Do you think it was the lack of grease in the calipers that caused the squealing? Brake lines are rubber but look OK, no cracks. I have not flushed the brake fluid, but it looks clean and full. with the top off it will squirt out when releasing handle so I think the return is clear too.

The squeal happened with light to moderate pressure. with hard braking it went away. But at a stop light it was annoying as hell. I ended up using rear brake.
 
I usually figure that if the squeal is still there, you still have a glazed surface somewhere or pads that aren't bedded in well. Sand the PEE out of that disk and maybe take some paper to the pad as well. Want a dull surface on both, not shiny.
 
Thanks for response. This was the status of the disk in my first attempt to de-glaze, but I didn't de-glaze the pads too.


I've already put the new pads on the bike, since I had them, but have not had a chance to ride yet. I'll take the disk off again and go at it like it owes me money :mad: .
 
Disc aint too bad, you did the back as well then 'wash it down' with brake cleaner?
Oh, is the the nylon 'anti squeal' washer is missing from behind pad?
 
crazypj said:
Disc aint too bad, you did the back as well then 'wash it down' with brake cleaner?

Did the back, but did not wash it down with brake cleaner :-\

Oh, is the the nylon 'anti squeal' washer is missing from behind pad?

The original brakes did not have the nylon washer. I got a new one with the new pads and installed it along with the pads. I put a lot of grease on that back in and around the nylon washer too.
 
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