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Author Topic: 1970 CL350 resto  (Read 6578 times)

Offline bmfenn

  • Posts: 39
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #10 on: Feb 22, 2016, 12:24:47 »
Please ignore the messy garage





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Offline Habanero52

  • Posts: 542
  • The Race......is only with yourself!
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #11 on: Feb 22, 2016, 12:36:40 »
Cool!!!!!
Habanero52
Speed cost....How fast do you want to spend?
Follow the dream.
Why does life get in the way?

Offline JustinLonghorn

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Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #12 on: Feb 22, 2016, 12:56:45 »
Right on.
I'm going to eat your brains and gain your knowledge.

Into The Sunset, CB750 build

TT500 the Animal

Offline bmfenn

  • Posts: 39
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #13 on: Feb 23, 2016, 17:35:59 »
Well, overnight some gas leaked out of the bowl overflow tube, and some puddle in the carb throat in the left carb. I also neglected to turn off the petcock, but that's done now. My assumption is the float is either stuck or has a pinhole. Next plan is to take off both the carbs and stick them in the ultrasonic cleaner at work to clean them up a bit.

Also, what are everyone's thoughts on the uni filter kit that retains the stock side covers? There's some rust on the inside of my filter boxes, and the uni seems like a  reasonable alternative to NOS paper filters. I've read people go both ways as to needed to rejet afterwards. I'm planning on keeping the original exhaust, and hadn't planned on pod filters, but there doesn't seem to be a clear consensus.

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Offline davedogg

  • Posts: 72
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #14 on: Feb 23, 2016, 22:37:42 »
Check this out.

Offline bmfenn

  • Posts: 39
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #15 on: Feb 24, 2016, 14:37:58 »
Fantastic. I've read of people replacing the stock filter paper with new paper or foam, without any details how they did it. That article explains it nicely

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Offline clem

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Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #16 on: Feb 26, 2016, 10:39:06 »
Are you planning on taking the engine apart? Just curious since you said that the oil was milk chocolate, that's usually a since of water in the oil. I've been through a couple of engines like that and they all had rust on the gears and other parts after sitting for awhile. The parts that sat in the milky oil weren't rusted, only where they were above the oil level.
You can hit the chrome with wet aluminum foil too to get rid of the rust. That method works really well.
"After every war there are soldiers who refuse to surrender. To this day there are still thousands who cling to their 30+ year old motorcycles, thinking that the war is still on, refusing to concede that the four-strokes have won"

1972 DS7 http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=45886.msg505995#msg505995
1983 CB550sc bobber http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=30599.30

Offline bmfenn

  • Posts: 39
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #17 on: Feb 26, 2016, 17:30:53 »
I hadn't planned on taking the engine apart at this point. After I drained the old oil, I filled the engine with kerosene up to the oil fill hole, about a gallon, to hopefully help with any corrosion. I let it soak for a week, then drained and left the drain open overnight, refilled with rotella, let that sit a few days, and then drained and refilled with rotella again.  I looked inside the cylinders and where I could see in the crankcase with a borescope, and didn't see any rust. Fingers crossed

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Offline bmfenn

  • Posts: 39
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #18 on: Mar 09, 2016, 09:23:34 »
With the warm weather, I took the bike for a quick ride around the neighborhood yesterday. She ran beautifully.  This afternoon I'm going to go down the street to the seeks serve carwash and blast some grime off. Pics to come.

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Offline bmfenn

  • Posts: 39
Re: 1970 CL350 resto
« Reply #19 on: Mar 17, 2016, 09:13:40 »
Time to start chasing electrical gremlins.... The headlight works, but that's about it. When I turn on the right turn signal, the front right and rear left light up, but don't blink. If I turn the key to parking lights, the tail light lights up, but only if I pull the front brake lever. I know the rear brake switch is no good, and ordered a replacement.  Going to put in a new flasher also, and if that doesn't get me going, it looks like I'll be getting intimate with my multimeter

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