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Author Topic: 1968 CL175 repair and build  (Read 8349 times)

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 84
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #30 on: Sep 27, 2016, 01:20:21 »
The points will spark a bit, that's normal. If it looks like the Fourth of July, something may be wrong.

You can test coils with a multimeter., the plug wire lead and negative lead should give you a ~12-15k ohm resistance reading and between the two 18ga wires should read between 3k-5k ohms.

If you put the points cover back on and the bike wouldn't run, then your points wires are grounding out to the cover. Double up on gaskets or rearrange your wires accordingly.

As far as the cam goes, you should open up the top end and check the surfaces that the cam rides on. If you're lucky, the top end may be savable, and running that cam further may ruin a good head and rockerbox. I believe someone on here very recently had a similar problem but was able to source parts from eBay.


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Super good info, thanks! I'll have to do this tomorrow I guess. As far as the cam is concerned, I have had a quick look without totally tearing the engine down and all the surfaces I can see are fine. I have probably a month before winter is here and I'll be doing a replacement of the cam then, but I want to at least see if I can get it running before then.

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 84
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #31 on: Sep 27, 2016, 20:11:47 »
Alright, I got the seat and the tank off just to have some space.

I think I tested the coil correctly. I traced a wire coming from the coil to a "Y" or a "pigtail" (I think), popped out the connectors and tested with a multimeter between those two points. Getting a 1.8ohm reading which I'm pretty sure is bad, and I was getting nothing from either spark plug lead and I know that's bad too.

I'm guessing I should just order a new coil, and they come with wires attached, correct? I've been seeing some talk about using an Accel one for a Harley or something, anyone got info on that?

Pics attached for reference, maybe I measured the completely wrong thing.

Offline advCo

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #32 on: Sep 27, 2016, 22:41:02 »
So you have a single coil feeding both plugs, correct? 1.8 should be okay. Test resistance between the two spark plug leads.


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Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 84
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #33 on: Sep 27, 2016, 23:31:45 »
I'm getting about 13k ohms from plug wire to plug wire. I was also under the impression that the coil should put out about 3.5 to 5ohm, so isn't 1.8 hella low?
So you have a single coil feeding both plugs, correct? 1.8 should be okay. Test resistance between the two spark plug leads.


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And yeah it's one coil feeding two plugs. It looks like the universal options in the DTT shop will work if it's necessary.

It seems prudent to note that I'm seeing a spark from both leads but it doesn't look too strong.

Offline advCo

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #34 on: Sep 27, 2016, 23:36:05 »
If you have spark then more than likely the coil isn't your problem. The value between the leads is good. 1.8 does seem a bit low but you need to check the values in the factory service manual. Generally if a coil goes bad, there's no resistance and no spark.


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"He broke the mirrors off his Cadillac, 'cause he doesn't like it looking like he looks back."

74 CB360 - Luna - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.0
82 GS550L - Tracker-ish - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67229.0 - Sold
74 XL350 - The Turd - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70252.0
Suzuki FA50 "No-Ped" - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71189.0
73 Suzuki RV125 -http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=73875.0

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 84
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #35 on: Sep 28, 2016, 00:18:24 »
If you have spark then more than likely the coil isn't your problem. The value between the leads is good. 1.8 does seem a bit low but you need to check the values in the factory service manual. Generally if a coil goes bad, there's no resistance and no spark.


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Well that's a relief, thanks! I may get a new coil and leads anyway because they're not terribly expensive and I am almost positive that I should have like 3ohms from the coil, AND the bike doesn't start even with some starting fluid.

That said, I guess I'm having a fueling problem. I'm okay chasing down wires all day for the most part, but getting a set of carbs to work is over my head. Here goes nothing I guess haha

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Offline teazer

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #36 on: Sep 28, 2016, 11:10:39 »
The trick with carbs is to get a couple of small containers - cold cut containers are fine or small baking trays and put one carb in each.  Take your time to strip and clean them.

When you think they are perfect, get a can of carb cleaner or wd40 and spray it through one jet on one carb and repeat for the jet on the other carb.  Is the spray the same on both?

After you are sure that the jets are all clean, repeat that process on the bodies.  Spray though each drilling one at a time and compare to the other carb.  That is the only way for most most of us to know they are clean.  Pay particular attention to the tiny holes in the bore just in front of the slide.  They clog and are hard to clean.
« Last Edit: Oct 02, 2016, 13:42:06 by teazer »

Offline advCo

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #37 on: Sep 28, 2016, 13:18:53 »
+1. I use carb cleaner and compressed air first to blow out all the passages. It's worth noting to make sure that your jets have the same numbers stamped on them on both carbs, and that all the brass is the original stuff. I can't speak from experience but I know a lot of people have issues with aftermarket brass.


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"He broke the mirrors off his Cadillac, 'cause he doesn't like it looking like he looks back."

74 CB360 - Luna - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.0
82 GS550L - Tracker-ish - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=67229.0 - Sold
74 XL350 - The Turd - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70252.0
Suzuki FA50 "No-Ped" - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=71189.0
73 Suzuki RV125 -http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=73875.0

Offline medicalmechanica

  • Posts: 84
Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #38 on: Sep 28, 2016, 16:30:46 »
I have a couple aftermarket brass bits in one of them, but that's kinda just what I have to work with right now, I'm going to have to get a rebuild kit too I guess.

I'm hearing some clacking while kick starting, it's happening at the end of the throw of the kick lever. On the CL175 the only place I can see something that looks like a cam chain tensioner is right in front of the engine, so I backed it out and screwed it back in, but it's still giving be a bit of a clicking noise. I'm going to adjust the valve clearance today and see if that helps, but if not I'm assuming I'll have to just tear everything down and replace the tensioner and the chain, is that correct?

If so I'll just go ahead and take it all apart and order the camshaft, tensioner, chain, and rocker arms I guess and rebuild the whole thing which I'd really prefer not to do.

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Offline medicalmechanica

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Re: 1968 CL175 repair and build
« Reply #39 on: Sep 28, 2016, 21:12:57 »
She started! A little spritz of starting fluid and a goose and she fired up. The bike won't start without full choke, and it won't continue to run without basically wide open throttle, but it's something. Does anyone have a source for like a writeup or a diagram of what each screw on the carbs do? I ask because I have no idea what any of them are for, and because my left carb is missing two near the top. 

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Edit: I redid the cam chain adjustment and I'm not hearing the clacking, and I redid the points afterwards. I tried to get the valve covers off to adjust the valves but I don't have a big enough wrench and I don't want to round them off with a socket.
« Last Edit: Sep 28, 2016, 21:40:09 by medicalmechanica »