rusche said:
What do you think caused the turbo failure, and what turbo were you using?
I was under the impression that CV carbs didnt respond well to turbos do to the slide being blown open
Unfortunately, I purchased the bike without carbs. Those VM34s were brand new and cost me about $200. So Im going to try them lol
I was under the impression that round slides were prefered. I dont plan on running real high boost
The main reason was bad build quality - it was the cheapest T3-turbo that I was able to find back then. I am still not 100% positive, that the oilflow to the turbo is/was sufficient and if all of that wasn't enough, it seems as if the drainage wasn't drilled correctly.
CV-carbs just need pressure ABOVE the diaphragm as well, so they only respond to the pressure-difference and not the actual boost.
rusche said:
Another question, I've got two ports on the turbo for boost gauge/wastegate
Can I use this port in place of a pitot tube?
A pitot tube will actually return a pressure, which is slightly ABOVE the pressure present in the system as pressure (aka. boost) and the pressure resulting from the airflow add up. So the floatbowl will be pressurized slightly OVER boost level.
You can leave the wastegate plugged in, where it is plugged in on the turbo and if you want (and have no other port) install a T-piece to take off boost pressure for the gauge there.
rusche said:
I've seen several people do it successfully with the XS, even required a restrictor, apparently too much pressure. Should survive it seems
Oilpressure will definitely be enough, even in a rolling element engine. Make sure you put in a restrictor, because otherwise in case of turbo-fail you'll loose a lot more oilpressure in the system, which could turn out to be a serious issue and cause even more damage.
rusche said:
I read alot about poor drivability from draw through set ups, blow through seemed to be much more forgiving, although more work and money.
You can run carbs without carbon seals in a draw-through setup, but the fuel-air-mix will always wash out some oil from the bearings. Not much of an issue, when you've got enough oil going to the turbo, yet still your ride will always be a bit smokey. (Although I wouldn't do it again.)
Carbon seals are available for the GT15 though.
xb33bsa said:
... there really is no reason for a turbo unless you are running at wot anyway ...
Actually that's wrong. Even at 0 PSI boost on the clock (which is actually vacuum generated by the engine plus boost generated at a certain RPM), you will feel quite a noticeable difference in torque, when the turbo comes on. I have a tuned hi-comp TR1 and the Turbo Bike and even at 0psi the Turbo made a lot more torque than the hi-comp naturally aspirated.
Hope this helps a bit, Rusche!
Cheers,
Greg