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Author Topic: RD400 - Back from the Dead  (Read 7444 times)

Offline jpmobius

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #50 on: Jun 12, 2017, 10:59:17 »
With the factory copper gaskets.  I give them a medium cote and let them dry or mostly dry, and then a light spray just before I assemble the heads.
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline Maritime

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #51 on: Jun 12, 2017, 11:07:22 »
Those pistons look real good there man,
And +1 for the pine sol bath, just not in the house unless you like the scent haha



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LOL I spilled it in the basement and had pinesol smell for a week.
The GL Rebirth: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68337.0
CX500 Low budget Bobber : http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=43617.0
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Offline clem

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #52 on: Jun 12, 2017, 11:57:24 »
I was given the recommendation to anneal the head gaskets on my 350. I do have it setup to run RD400 gaskets to correct squish so I don't know if it'll work the same. I rechecked after a few miles and the torque was still good. Levi put the o ring mod on his so that can be an option also.

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"After every war there are soldiers who refuse to surrender. To this day there are still thousands who cling to their 30+ year old motorcycles, thinking that the war is still on, refusing to concede that the four-strokes have won"

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Offline jpmobius

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #53 on: Jun 12, 2017, 12:46:20 »
O ring is definitely the hot ticket, but the 400 gaskets work fine.  The 350 gaskets are hard to seal.  Definitely anneal them if not brand new.  Any copper gasket can be reused indefinitely by annealing.  It is simple to do.  Clean the gasket first and then holding it with a pair of pliers, heat it up with a propane torch.  The gasket will turn blue as it gets hot enough.  Heat around the surface until tho whole thing sees the color change and then quench it in water.  It should be nice and soft after that. 
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline JSJamboree

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #54 on: Jun 12, 2017, 12:53:20 »
O ring is definitely the hot ticket, but the 400 gaskets work fine.  The 350 gaskets are hard to seal.  Definitely anneal them if not brand new.  Any copper gasket can be reused indefinitely by annealing.  It is simple to do.  Clean the gasket first and then holding it with a pair of pliers, heat it up with a propane torch.  The gasket will turn blue as it gets hot enough.  Heat around the surface until tho whole thing sees the color change and then quench it in water.  It should be nice and soft after that. 

I had never heard that, I just used the copper coat on my 350. sprayed the gaskets and the seats on the head/jugs, when really tacky put them together.  Basically works like spray adhesive except for copper.  If I pull the heads again I might look into going o-ring.  Havent had issues with the stockers yet though

Offline AimlessMoto

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #55 on: Jun 12, 2017, 19:01:41 »
Dropped off the jugs and pistons this afternoon. Have a good feeling on this guy. Should be done for Friday.

I got the chance to glass bead everything before we went... came out ok. Ports are all clean at least. Ready for paint once they come back.

Still going to deck the heads on some 800g and glass... will wait until after paint.


Offline JSJamboree

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #56 on: Jun 12, 2017, 20:04:17 »
I did glass bead on the heads, then painted them with ceramic paint.  The paint flaked off, didn't have good enough surface to stick.  With glass it puts a sort of polish to the metal.  I had to sand blast the rest of the paint off and after the sand it stuck like a champ.  Not sure if that was the issue for sure, but just thought I would put it out there. 

Offline AimlessMoto

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #57 on: Jun 12, 2017, 21:14:47 »
Thanks! These have a definite etch, itll shred a papertowel rubbed on the flat.

Offline jpmobius

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #58 on: Jun 12, 2017, 21:36:02 »
Glass beading is usually great for paint.  You have to do a very thorough job of cleaning your parts after though as it leaves a pretty tenacious dust film especially if the beads are worn.  Another thing I see often enough is not thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing the parts first.  While blasting with any media will clean off dirt and grease, it also just moves a lot of it around and really makes removing the contaminates later much harder.  Much like sanding to prep for paint, you absolutely have to super clean the surface first or you end up grinding into the sanding scratches the contaminates that would have been easy to remove first.  I clean everything with a very strong degreaser and then again with detergent and hot water.  Blast with air to dry and they are ready to glass bead.  This is great for not contaminating the beads, and there is no chance of grinding any grease or silicone into the part which will repel paint.  Unfortunately they need another cleaning in detergent after to remove the glass beading debris.  If it is engine parts, you want to really clean them regardless as the glass beads are pretty unfriendly to engine innards.  I have a kitchen dishwasher for the final pass - the super hot water does a very thorough job - though if you don't have one in the shop I reckon most lads will have a bit of trouble getting permission from the boss!  Even if you sandblast, you ought to thoroughly clean the parts with detergent before paint.
Mobius


On a long enough timeline, the survival rate for everyone drops to zero.

1973 RD350 Yamaha build  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=66498.0

Offline AimlessMoto

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Re: RD400 - Back from the Dead
« Reply #59 on: Jun 13, 2017, 07:37:42 »
The heads and jugs were soaked in degreaser, brushed, soaked and scrubbed in detergent, then glass beaded, and then hit with a compressor to remove 90% of the debris...

Once the jugs are back from the shop and I have the chance to deck the heads, i will repeat the degreaser/detergent cleanings... then hit everything with hi-temp primer and bake the parts at 350 for 20 minutes.

Then paint black with epoxy.