Key in ignition position turns bike off?

Q

quadracer351

Coast to Coast
Just tried starting my bike for the first time since the rebuild started but for some reason on the first click of the key the lights and gauge comes on (accessories position) the bike will crank but won't spark. When I turn the key to the second position which is ignition, everything goes off and the bike won't crank and the key is removable. Any ideas? Bike is a 1974 cb750

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Any wiring changes during the rebuild?

Sounds like maybe the wires on the harness don't match up with the ignition switch positions?
 
Purchased a new original wire harness and had a shop wire it all up. I trust they did it right, they said they got a spark in the shop but even when I got the bike back it was still doing the same thing with the ignition switch. It was getting dark and the carbs were leaking fuel so I called it quits for the night. I'll have to go through the harness tomorrow but like I've said before I know nothing about electrical!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Check the harness where it plugs into the ignition switch and see if the wires all match up by color.
 
hillsy said:
Neither does your shop by the sound of things.
Click to expand...
What would be the reason the key can come out in the ignition position? I order another ignition switch to be safe

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Sonreir™ said:
Check the harness where it plugs into the ignition switch and see if the wires all match up by color.
Click to expand...
Did that, all four match up at the connection

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
quadracer351 said:
What would be the reason the key can come out in the ignition position? I order another ignition switch to be safe
Click to expand...


That doesn't sound normal - how old is the ignition switch?
 
hillsy said:
That doesn't sound normal - how old is the ignition switch?
Click to expand...
1974 but the thing was a daily rider when I got it and the key worked. Trying to upload a video to YouTube then will post the link

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
In that video it looks to me that in position 1 it's OFF and nothing works and teh key can be removed.

Position 2 is POWER or ON and key cannot be removed.

Position 3 is PARK, and all that should be on are the rear lights plus a parking light if it has one - and the key can be removed.

That is all as it should be.

The only question seems to be why is there no spark? Could be miss wired by that shop or a problem in the Off-Run (kill) switch which should be on the right bar. If it has been rewired for non standard bar switches, you need to check for power to the points and coils in RUN and position 2.
 
Do you have the OFF-ON-OFF control switch on your handlebar? Looks like your starter switch is on the left side instead of the right. The way the stock setup is, the keyswitch turns power on to the harness, but not the coils. The right handlebar control has an OFF-ON-OFF switch which is the kill switch and puts power to the coils.
 
irk miller said:
Do you have the OFF-ON-OFF control switch on your handlebar? Looks like your starter switch is on the left side instead of the right. The way the stock setup is, the keyswitch turns power on to the harness, but not the coils. The right handlebar control has an OFF-ON-OFF switch which is the kill switch and puts power to the coils.
Click to expand...
Ran the kill switch off the old high/low beam switch and will be putting a high low switch on the headlight bucket to help keep less on the handlebars.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
From the switch to harness
Orange- Gray
Red- Orange/Brown
Green- Black/White
Purple- Black single
Yellow- Yellow/red
Brown- Black
Black- Light Blue

High low is now run kill and horn is starter
dcbb43a34f6ebdcf7ec334baeea76cf2.jpg
b35b969f155487398b2cc5fb3ee2a747.jpg


Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
quadracer351 said:
From the switch to harness
Orange- Gray
Red- Orange/Brown
Green- Black/White
Purple- Black single
Yellow- Yellow/red
Brown- Black
Black- Light Blue

High low is now run kill and horn is starter
Click to expand...

From switch to harness should be:
Brown -> Yellow/red
Yellow -> Green
Purple -> Black
Green -> Not used, cap off
Gray -> Black/white
Red -> Orange
Black -> Light blue
Orange -> Gray

Also, check your solenoid and ensure that it has a red/yellow wire as well as a black (not green or green/red) wire.
 
Where do you have the black and black/white coil wires going? To the grey hi beam or the green low beam wire?
 
Sonreir™ said:
From switch to harness should be:
Brown -> Yellow/red
Yellow -> Green
Purple -> Black
Green -> Not used, cap off
Gray -> Black/white
Red -> Orange
Black -> Light blue
Orange -> Gray

Also, check your solenoid and ensure that it has a red/yellow wire as well as a black (not green or green/red) wire.
Click to expand...
If it's that messed up how did they get a spark in the shop!? I trust the guys, if anyone is into triumphs and lives in NYC they would know the shop I took it to.
9a74d70b84d9a89a613768e7365d4a3d.jpg


Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
IMHO, that's not very tidy for a professional wiring job.

Which side is ground on that battery? It looks like +ve to ground. Did they used to work on really old British cars and bikes by any chance?

Or are my eyes fooling me again?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom