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Author Topic: Rear Set Sale- Very Limited Time  (Read 732 times)

Offline J-Rod10

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Re: Rear Set Sale- Very Limited Time
« Reply #10 on: Sep 12, 2017, 17:49:19 »
Still have any universals left?

I do.

If you'd like a set, shoot me a PM with your e-mail address, and I'll send you an invoice via PayPal.

Offline SoyBoySigh

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Re: Rear Set Sale- Very Limited Time
« Reply #11 on: Sep 21, 2017, 15:03:18 »
If anybody's still making this kinda stuff? I'd love to see something with a single tubular bar stock for the pedal arms, rather than perforated flat plate as a triangulation - a single tube would be much more like an OEM set-up. THAT I would buy. And I suppose it's an unpopular attitude, but I DON'T wanna make the bike LOOK different - Just functional ergonomic stuff is all. Probably the best version I could dream up would be a shortened welded OEM pedal with a shortened re-drilled lever arm on the back-side of a lightened hollow pivot tube, so as to preserve the original ratio of the bell-crank mechanism and thereby prevent the brake from becoming "Wooden" feeling. Then all you'd need is a relocated pedal pivot and you're golden! If it didn't work on the 'F-bike's rear disc & master-cylinder without further mods, one could swap to a rear master with the integral miniature bell-crank mechanism and bob's your uncle the pivot could be relocated just about anywhere. Strikes me that the pedal pivot hole is a substantial bolt-up lug which a really decent rear-sets bracket could hang OFF of, though it doesn't fix the left-hand-side it does present a fix for the brake side without any welding to the original frame - just a brain-fart. But yeah, with the integral bell-crank pull-type rear master, you don't NEED the huge heavy pivot tube anymore, and could use just about any type of pedal that suits your fancy - No need for the secondary link from the new pedals to the original pivot shaft using a splined-lug on the outside face.

For those who LIKE the splined lug thing and the doubly complex Dr Seuss / Rube Goldberg machine style of the TAROZZI style system with the bell-crank rear-sets linked to the bell-crank of the original pivot, then linking to the master-cylinder OR the lever arm on the drum's shoe-cam shaft - There's a decent pairing between the GL1200's pivot shaft and a splined lug which fits on the backside of VF750F/VF1000F etc rear brake pedals - If you look at the bike and see no splined joint on the outside of the pivot which is to say the shaft is integral to the pivot itself and the joinery is on the INSIDE of the bracket - that's the type which has the funny lil' LUG back there, hidden away. It's got a hook for a brake-light switch spring (which is dumb seeing as you can get the banjo bolt with integral switch - unless of course it's a race-bike with so sensitive a set-up that the "electric banjo" (Cue ... well, anything by PRIMUS)  that the electric banjo-bolt might soften your feed-back etc? Sounds like nonsense really - Okay, let's say you're doing it all up PERIOD-CORRECT, OR perhaps you're running a drum-brake in the first place? THEN you'd appreciate the thing having a spring-hook to connect to your brake-light switch! Not very long of a lever-arm on the things, which I suppose could be thought of as a GOOD thing - when you're using the smaller pedal arm, you might wanna mess around with the leverage ratio of your overall system, preserving the "action" and preventing that "Wooden" FEEL again? In which sense, that lug might be fitted to the outside face OR the inside face, using the arm on the pivot shaft itself, perhaps a cut-down VF pedal with integral shaft perhaps? The VF pedal has a very short pivot shaft, the GL1200 has a very LONG pivot shaft. I suppose that's whatcha call "flexibility" - Thing is, it probably fits a whole bunch of OTHER models, too - Perhaps the CB900F "Sport-Kit" which has the narrower shaft - Hmmm - a few I know that it DOESN'T fit, would be the '82 CB750F/CB900F USA-spec (forward controls) pedal OR the CB1100R with the alloy pedal (those two match though) NOR does it match the Euro-spec sport-kit style rear-sets type pedal mounting for the Euro-market CB750K DOHC-4 (the DOHC-4 'K-bike with the alloy passenger-peg brackets rather than integral steel welded to the frame) THOSE models definitely don't fit the GL1200/VF750F spline! But I'd be awfully tempted to try, say - the extra short chromed-steel pedal from SOHC-4 CB400F for instance?

Come to think of it, there's also a SUZUKI version of the same thing, involving parts from earlier GS750 vs early-'80s GSX1100E type of stuff - It's worth searching Suzuki GS pedals on eBay 'cause you'll find it before too long.

The point being, these short-armed little splined "LUG" pieces are available all over eBay junk-yard breakers' listings, and so if you're buying any OTHER spares from these outfits, you might as well take a 2nd look and see if you can't match up a pivot shaft with a short-arm lug for an all-OEM version of the TAROZZI and/or BIMOTA thing.

Conversely, the Tarozzi catalog lists a piece for just about all of the '70s Superbikes which the likes of US might be messing with - I'm sure there are a few which DON'T fit though? Motocicli Veloci also lists aftermarket lugs from the likes of Bimota, in a few different versions which Tarozzi might not have.  But all of THAT stuff is gonna run you around $40-$50ea plus trans-Atlantic shipping, which is approximately the same as shipping half an hour across the Canada/USA border, so IMHO probably well worth getting it from Italy 'cause THEY don't have a dude with rubber gloves who does a pelvic exam on you when you arrive pick up the package....



-S.
Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

Offline J-Rod10

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Re: Rear Set Sale- Very Limited Time
« Reply #12 on: Sep 21, 2017, 16:20:00 »
Huh?

Offline SONIC.

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Re: Rear Set Sale- Very Limited Time
« Reply #13 on: Sep 21, 2017, 16:58:01 »

Offline J-Rod10

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Re: Rear Set Sale- Very Limited Time
« Reply #14 on: Sep 21, 2017, 17:20:21 »
As far as the first couple sentences, the splined pieces are cut, and broached, on a mill out of a chunk of billet. Nobody is going to take the time to weld them up out of tube. That's a waste of time, and added cost.