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Author Topic: So lost...CB360  (Read 849 times)

Offline Cursh

  • Posts: 177
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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #20 on: Oct 11, 2017, 19:06:41 »
You'll want brown and not brown/white for your parking circuit. And I don't recommend using the turn signal for the parking light, since the ignition switch will have power running through the brown wire when the switch is in the ON position.

I get this when I test the switch/ look at the factory wiring diagram.
OFF:no connection
ON: black to red & brown to white/brown **
PARK: red to white/brown

**It looks like this breaks a connection between the tail light and the rest of the incandescents on the bike so that when in park the entire bike doesn't light up. Without needing to isolate the left blinker circuit (the handlebar switch does this for me) I'm just leaving the brown wire detached. When the bike is on, there is no power running to the left signals.

I'm more asking than stating a strongly held belief...

Also, the stator isn't three phase, it's single phase, so you should have a separate yellow, pink, and white wire and not three yellows.
I hear you are working on something in that area =). Im following and interested in the outcome.

The rectifier manufacturer specifies that the pink/white/yellow can be attached to any yellow wire. I should probably fix the graphic to specify the wire color to the alternator. This is an area where I know that I don't know anything at all. Whatever is happening inside that gold unit is magic to me.
Install diagram is here

What's the purpose of the DPST switches? Is the dimming not being toggled with the KZ control?

When I wire up the pass switch in a way that makes sense to me I have a switch that is blips the high beam as long as the headlight is switched on. (I've never had it wired into a factory location, so I'm not sure what normal functionality is)

The first DPST relay changes the functionality sot that pressing the switch blips the low beam if the headlight is off and the high beam if the head light is on. If the highbeam is on, nothing happens.
The second DPST relay cuts the high beam if the high beam is on and doesn't impact the circuit if the hi beam is off. 

I still haven't figured out the zener diode circuit for the idiot charge light. I've seen the $16 green/yellow/red LEDs on ebay, but I don't know how much effort it will take to hack it into the appropriate housing to fit in with the other indicators.
« Last Edit: Oct 11, 2017, 19:10:43 by Cursh »
Love me some old shit that don't run right . . .
75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh

Offline Sonreir

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #21 on: Oct 12, 2017, 12:27:08 »
Weird... normal ignition switch wiring for the old Hondas has everything you describe, but park output is brown and not brown/white. If yours tests out differently, keep what you have.

The rest sounds OK to me.
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Offline Cursh

  • Posts: 177
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    • Ben Lewis Creative
Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #22 on: Oct 12, 2017, 15:18:59 »
Thanks for the gut check.

I'll double check my continuity. I've got a cheap emgo reproduction main switch(though it feels solid enough) so it's possible a wire was hooked up backwards (and equally possible that I wrote my wiring notes down incorrectly.)
Love me some old shit that don't run right . . .
75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh