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Author Topic: So lost...CB360  (Read 1711 times)

Online Cursh

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #20 on: Oct 11, 2017, 19:06:41 »
You'll want brown and not brown/white for your parking circuit. And I don't recommend using the turn signal for the parking light, since the ignition switch will have power running through the brown wire when the switch is in the ON position.

I get this when I test the switch/ look at the factory wiring diagram.
OFF:no connection
ON: black to red & brown to white/brown **
PARK: red to white/brown

**It looks like this breaks a connection between the tail light and the rest of the incandescents on the bike so that when in park the entire bike doesn't light up. Without needing to isolate the left blinker circuit (the handlebar switch does this for me) I'm just leaving the brown wire detached. When the bike is on, there is no power running to the left signals.

I'm more asking than stating a strongly held belief...

Also, the stator isn't three phase, it's single phase, so you should have a separate yellow, pink, and white wire and not three yellows.
I hear you are working on something in that area =). Im following and interested in the outcome.

The rectifier manufacturer specifies that the pink/white/yellow can be attached to any yellow wire. I should probably fix the graphic to specify the wire color to the alternator. This is an area where I know that I don't know anything at all. Whatever is happening inside that gold unit is magic to me.
Install diagram is here

What's the purpose of the DPST switches? Is the dimming not being toggled with the KZ control?

When I wire up the pass switch in a way that makes sense to me I have a switch that is blips the high beam as long as the headlight is switched on. (I've never had it wired into a factory location, so I'm not sure what normal functionality is)

The first DPST relay changes the functionality sot that pressing the switch blips the low beam if the headlight is off and the high beam if the head light is on. If the highbeam is on, nothing happens.
The second DPST relay cuts the high beam if the high beam is on and doesn't impact the circuit if the hi beam is off. 

I still haven't figured out the zener diode circuit for the idiot charge light. I've seen the $16 green/yellow/red LEDs on ebay, but I don't know how much effort it will take to hack it into the appropriate housing to fit in with the other indicators.
« Last Edit: Oct 11, 2017, 19:10:43 by Cursh »
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh

Offline Sonreir

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #21 on: Oct 12, 2017, 12:27:08 »
Weird... normal ignition switch wiring for the old Hondas has everything you describe, but park output is brown and not brown/white. If yours tests out differently, keep what you have.

The rest sounds OK to me.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Online Cursh

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #22 on: Oct 12, 2017, 15:18:59 »
Thanks for the gut check.

I'll double check my continuity. I've got a cheap emgo reproduction main switch(though it feels solid enough) so it's possible a wire was hooked up backwards (and equally possible that I wrote my wiring notes down incorrectly.)
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh

Online Cursh

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #23 on: Oct 20, 2017, 12:44:45 »
Ok.

Stumped again...

I'm back in town and worked through all of my known issues:
  • Pulled the carb slides and cleaned them up with emery cloth. They had some burrs for sure and one was stuck enough when I pulled it that it probably contributed to the bike dying.
  • Cleaned the slides off with WD40, thought better and finished them off with simple green.
  • New OEM battery ground
  • New AGM OEM spec battery
  • Checked over all the wiring and wired in an OEM fuse box (used to be one I made from scratch)
  • Added an inline auto-reset circuit breaker between rectifier and battery
  • improved the ground from the rectifier to the battery

So, wiring all looks good. No shorts to the coil power when the other functions are used. Strong power to the coils when the kill switch is closed. All controls function as intended.

Charlie's Place sent a replacement ignition unit (just the pickups) and it functions the same way as the last one. Test light never dims when ignition spins. Spark plug doesn't fire when kicked over. They tested the unit as functional before sending it to me.

Coils tested out as good, which doesn't make any sense to me. The only thing I can think of is that maybe I lost my magnent(s) in my advancer mechanism? Anything else we can look at? Power is going to all the right places...

Other things I did while I was in there was to drain the tank, install a Kehin petcock to replace the broken tube on the knockoff, new OEM fuel line to the carburetors.

None of these things above impact spark, so I didn't put them up top.

« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2017, 12:46:45 by Cursh »
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh

Offline irk miller

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #24 on: Oct 20, 2017, 13:29:24 »
Test light never dims when ignition spins. 

The only thing I can think of is that maybe I lost my magnent(s) in my advancer mechanism?

If your magnet was missing, the light wouldn't be coming on at all.  The magnet serves the same functions as the points closing- which is to send the current from the ignition to the coil's primary windings for the coil to fire off.  It's possible you're wired wrong or your leads are in the wrong place.

Online Cursh

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #25 on: Oct 20, 2017, 17:15:53 »
If your magnet was missing, the light wouldn't be coming on at all.  The magnet serves the same functions as the points closing- which is to send the current from the ignition to the coil's primary windings for the coil to fire off.  It's possible you're wired wrong or your leads are in the wrong place.

eff yes. Thank you. I'll poke around in there for a while. I'd rather be wrong and have something to try than be right and out of feasible options.
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh

Online Cursh

  • Posts: 201
  • Loves Stock Airboxes
    • Ben Lewis Creative
Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #26 on: Oct 20, 2017, 19:43:55 »
So, I'm going to say that I don't see how it could be the wiring. The bike ran with these coils as wired until it didn't.  If the coil leads were swapped from the factory, it would have been true then when it was running as much as it's true now that it's not. As to the rest of the system (electronic ignition), it's four wires. Two black to ignition hot, a yellow, and a blue. Worst thing I could feasibly do is swap blue and yellow which would give me bad timing( as opposed to no timing...). I checked that the magnet cylinder and advancer were actually spinning with the stator/timing thing. They are. Looks to be magnets in there as well.

Here's what my two coils are doing. Maybe I fried them?

I tested between 3 locations:

A:Hot into coil from kill switch
B: Timing to points/electronic ignition
C: Plug Cap.

LEFT:
A to B was 5k resistance.
B to C was 16.4K resistance
A to C was 16.4K resistance

RIGHT:
A to B was 5k resistance.
B to C was 16.8K resistance
A to C was 16.8K resistance

This all makes sense to me because I've got 5ohm plug caps... Am I missing something here?
« Last Edit: Oct 20, 2017, 19:47:15 by Cursh »
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh

Offline Sonreir

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #27 on: Oct 23, 2017, 12:12:26 »
Those numbers don't look right to me, but I might be a bit confused for what you mean by B and C.

Resistance from the black/white wire on the coil to the end of the spark plug wire (including cap) should be 5K. Resistance from the black/white wire to the color wire (blue or yellow) on the same coil should be five Ohms.
Sparck Moto - http://www.sparckmoto.com

Audaces fortuna iuvat.

1977 Honda CJ360 - Café SOS - Stage One™, Café SOS - Stage Two™
1976 Puch Maxi - APuchalypse Now
Suzi T500 Cobra Resto

Custom Gauge Graphics
Custom Wiring Harnesses

DTT Red, White, and/or Black 360 Club - Better than those Blue guys

Offline irk miller

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #28 on: Oct 23, 2017, 12:34:04 »
Those numbers don't look right to me, but I might be a bit confused for what you mean by B and C.

Resistance from the black/white wire on the coil to the end of the spark plug wire (including cap) should be 5K. Resistance from the black/white wire to the color wire (blue or yellow) on the same coil should be five Ohms.
Secondary resistance should be closer to 10k ohms.  Usually reads just over 9k. 

Online Cursh

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Re: So lost...CB360
« Reply #29 on: Oct 23, 2017, 14:51:06 »
oh, shit. I see. I added a K to the value between the two coil leads.

5 ohm between the colored (blue or yellow) and black/white.
12.4K ohm between the plug wire and the black/white.
12.4K ohm between the plug wire and the colored.

I'm not worried about a 400ohm or a 1-3% out of tolerance between the coils. Should I be? The dyna coils have 17k ohm resistance specified for the same application. Unfortunately, I can't find factory specs for the 360 at all.

I've got a fresh set of factory points on the way (i stripped out the old mounting plate and thought it would be worth having a new one with a fresh pair of points on hand for troubleshooting.)
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
73 MGB
Bicycle enthusiast.
2009 MBC Street Fixie
2016 Retrospec Folding Speck
www.instagram.com/cursh