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Still didn't get the speedo sorted but found the PO had put a 55/60 Watt headlight in and the stock is 35 watt, so we went to the store but could only find and old school sealed beam in a 35, so we bought it and I hacked the bucket to make it fit LOL. It should make the charging system so much happier than the 55 watt light did. The tach is scheduled to arrive today and the RR and brake pads landed in Maine so I will go get them tonight. Should have it all buttoned up and running tonight!
So didn't get a lot of time last night but I did get a drill connected to the speedo cable and it turns the dial so the issue is in the hub drive, need to pull that and take a look. Also got the tach on it, seems to work ok. It was hard to start cold, but once warm I was able to get a steady idle at around 1200 rpm would rev to around 7K sitting in the garage and settle back good. shut it off and restarted a few times and it was easy to start. I noticed one thing. when it sits the fuel line and filter empty back into the tank so you need to crank it a bunch to fill it back up. then it runs for 20 sec, dies, hard to fire then runs again for 20 sec. then fires a little better, runs and dies, 2-3 more times and it finally runs right. so I am thinking the electric choke and carb heater are on the fritz. going to see how much they cost and replace if cheap enough, just need to make sure both are getting 12V when they are supposed to first.
No petcock on it at all. Fuel pump to carb, tank is lower than carb bowl so as it sits gravity pulls fuel back out. you can see the filter is empty and watch as you crank the engine the fuel flow into the filter, fill it up then get to the carb and fill the bowl then fires up. Pretty sure the fuel pump check valve is dead or been removed. Looking for one I can put in line to keep fuel from going backwards.
So didn't get a lot of time last night but I did get a drill connected to the speedo cable and it turns the dial so the issue is in the hub drive, need to pull that and take a look.
Just tightened the chuck onto the cable and hit the trigger. first time the needle went backwards, so I flicked the direction switch and then it went to 50 KPH LOL, so now I need to pull the hub drive and see if it is seized or if the little hole the cable goes into is worn, hoping I can fix it as a new speedo or drive is 30-40 bucks I don't want to spend. I found in line fuel check valves for like 10 bucks that will stop the fuel from flowing back into the tank, just need to measure the fuel line Diameter to get the right size
Yep sounds like the check valve to me. I need to fix the speedo on our scooter, I finally pulled the cable off the hub and the end that connects it to the gear inside was sheared off.
OK this is so close to ready but 2 issues left - Cold start sucks, you need to turn it over like 5 mins with it starting and running slightly longer each time it takes then when it hits operating temp, boom runs great, shut it off for 2-3 mins and starts right up again, more than an hour and back to taking forever. So I did a test on the auto choke, it is getting juice and getting warm but I don't know if it is stuck in the closed, needle down position or not, so to test I need to remove it cold, measure the needle length, apply power and wait 5-10 mins and measure again and if it has moved its good, if it stays the same length it's stuck closed and is my problem. The other test is if I can removed the choke but close up the hole leaving the venturi circuit open to enrich and see if the bike fires right.
The other issue is the speedo. I spun the front wheel and shined a light into the hub drive and the little square the cable goes in didn't turn so its f'd up somehow. hopefully a cleaning will get it working again.
OK, so last night I pulled the electric choke and noticed the end was sprung way out, put my finger over the hole in the carb and hit the starter. Fired right up from cold, woohoo it's the choke for sure. Now I looked it over and realized it had popped of a plastic holder and pushed it back in place, re-attached it, bike started and idled fine but now won't rev, I am sure it's the choke now not closing enough and it's way rich once warmed. so need to order the new one. Speedo hub is toast, the cable seized and the thing kept trying to spin and it sheered the worm gear teeth off inside. Need to find one of those that isn't 100 bucks, or mount a digital replacement.
SOOO been a bit but wanted to update, after the purchase of a carb with a manual choke she runs and rides reliable. Magoo passed all his tests and is loving the freedom of his 2 wheel machine. I got a question though for 2 stroke guys. The carb is larger than the intake. If you open the throttle all the way the bike runs crappy, if you open it just right you can hit 70 KPH or about 10 KPH over stock. The pic below kind of shows what I mean.
So the red is carb, green circle is the intake, that's aluminum obstruction. Blue is the slide and how much it goes up. Yellow is needle and black is the oil injection pipe. so what I think will make the bike better at WOT is if i was to port match the carb to the intake by removing material (the pink) and having a smooth transition instead of the flat. Anyone see why that's not a good idea?
It seems jetted ok. Is easy to start, idles good and accelerates great if you open the slide right to the intake 3/4 throttle, after the last 1/4 throttle it goes all sketchy. You can do 70 at 3/4 throttle and adding the last 1/4 slows it and it runs crappy. I know those issues can be a lean condition but I feel like its not. I move the needle up in stages from the setting it came all the way to full rich and it didn't run any different. That's why I was thinking of opening up the intake to match the carb, then mess with Jetting. I think the flat wall is messing with air flow.
there is a lot of metal, the intake is thick, I read that a lot of folks drill it out because you can't buy an new aftermarket but I don't want to break the injection tube for the oil as it works right now. I marked the throttle at the point where the slide is open and matches the intake opening and thats the spot it runs the best. Open it even a smidge more and it goes to poo. My thoughts are to pull the slide and use a sharpie pen and trace the carb opening on the intake then use a dremel to make a smooth tapered opening and match them.
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