Cb360 Reassembly Help

cb360j said:
Haha it’s funny cause I just thought that. The button was switched to the “on” position, so I switched it to the “off” position and now I’m getting power there. Did I wire something backwards?
Really common, switch works 'backwards' for stock 'self generated' CDI ignition. I've mentioned it in several posts over the years that 'OFF' wil be 'ON' and on will be OFF
 
Anybody ever sheared the kickstart shaft off? Lol
 

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I guess another question is...... do I tear the top end down to rebuild or just split the crank case like the FSM says I can.
 
cb360j said:
Anybody ever sheared the kickstart shaft off? Lol

That sucks. Pull the engine and flip it over to split the cases without messing with the entire top end...its not necessary.
 
It was a heart breaking moment for sure. At least this gives me the opportunity to figure out what is wrong with the electric start and the static timing.
I was trying to use a test light to verify the timing (like cmc video, or it says you can in the FSM as well) but when turning the engine over i was not getting the light to come on but the points are adjusted correctly, at least to my knowledge. Does this method work every single time? I had the key switch in the on position and was getting power to the coils.

When the solenoid is connected and I push the start button, I hear the solenoid actuate but the starter does not turn. I tried with a battery charger connected, I also tried bypassing the solenoid. The starter is connected to the solenoid, on the ground side, via large black wire. The solenoid gets power from the battery. Am I missing anything? Does the starter need to be grounded to the frame?

As I only kicked the bike over one time.. yep one time.. when the shaft broke so it may not have had the opportunity to get to that point. But I pulled the plugs to see if I was getting fuel to them and none was visible.
 
All the 360's used same shafts. Can't remember about 350's but that doesn't matter when you've got a 360 ;D
 
Hey Pj, are there any other cables to be connected to the starter other than the big main one? I can't seem to figure out why the starter is not working.
 
Nope,nothing else You do have solenoid fitted? 4 gauge from solenoide to starter. You can use lighter gauge cable, it needs to be capable of carrying around 75amps. Actual starting current is around 40~45 amps but initial surge is higher.
 
Sonreir said:
Is the solenoid activating? Do you hear the click when you press the starter button?

Yes I do hear the solenoid activating when I push the start button. Which makes me think I need to rebuild the starter? I just can't think of anything else to do.
 
Grab a wrench and bridge the studs between the solenoid. There may be sparks, but hold it tightly (you won't get shocked). This will bypass the solenoid and should activate the starter motor, if the starter motor is working.

If still not joy, then it's either the starter motor or a dead or dying battery.
 
Sonreir said:
Grab a wrench and bridge the studs between the solenoid. There may be sparks, but hold it tightly (you won't get shocked). This will bypass the solenoid and should activate the starter motor, if the starter motor is working.

If still not joy, then it's either the starter motor or a dead or dying battery.

Just did that.... no sparks or anything happened.. bad solenoid?
The battery was connected to a battery charger at the time as well. I think the battery is bad all the same. Would it still not spark like that though?
 
Solenoid has internal plastic stop so when contacts burn out you still get 'click' but no contiuity on high amp side. Normal cause of burned out contacts is low battery. Enough power to activate solenoid but not enough to turn motor so 'drops-out' when voltage drops then instantly has enough voltage to re-connect (the Bzzzzzt or takatakatak you get with a 'flat' battery)
 
cb360j said:
Just did that.... no sparks or anything happened.. bad solenoid?
The battery was connected to a battery charger at the time as well. I think the battery is bad all the same. Would it still not spark like that though?

If the battery is dead (or nearly dead) then you won't get sparks and the starter motor won't turn over. I'd try again with some jumper cables running to your car. Keep the car engine turned off when doing this.
 
For a master cylinder, is it possible to go up in piston size and it still work correctly? Or just stay with stock sizing
 
you can go up or down 1~1.5mm or 1/16" without too many issues. going bigger generally makes lever feel 'wooden' as you have less lever movement. M/C bore and caliper bore diameter are related. It isn't just how much fluid is moved but the surface area it's acting on.
 
Hey Sonreir,
Just getting around to hooking the bike up to car battery. Do you mean hook the positive and negative leads to the jumper cables or the battery itself (while still installed in bike)?
 
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