CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

The thing is apart. I'm not sure how to protect the face from fading in the Arizona sun. I suspect that whatever I print will last about six minutes.

The tank didn't pass the chemical strip. The bottom is swiss cheese. It looks good though.

I picked up another tank at a local salvage for $20 and it's off to the strip club for some work. Heres to hoping that this one isn't as far gone. If it makes it out the other side in one piece I'll be moving the Petcock bung so that it clears the frame and carbs and removing the leveling tubes. I'm perfectly happy to tip the bike over to get to my "reserve" fuel if it means that I don't have gasoline leaking all over the place every time I need to pull the tank off the bike.

Heres the toasted tank on the bike. Looks good. Everything else is running great, just waiting on reliable fuel storage to get her on the road.

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Trudging along on this one. I've been going through hell to title this bike in Arizona (despite having it previously registered in Alabama.)

Right now I'm waiting for a certified letter from GA (the last known title state) to tell me that they don't reissue titles more than 30 years old... ::) Once that happens I get my cool as hell copper plate and I can start riding around without worrying that the police are going to pull me over and ask me a bunch of questions I can't answer.

I took the bike up to the local thought leader (French at Cycle Werks) on fixing these things and he told me a bunch of stuff to do before bringing it back. I like that people try to help me do it myself before they take my money. He also asked me if I was planning to flip it before he helped me suss out the existing problems. I'm charging at 14v at 3k so that isn't going to be a problem moving forward. Looks like I need to set the float height and replace a bunch of engine seals. At least this point I'll be taking her apart knowing that all of the pieces are in place that she should run when I put her back together. I move at the end of the month, so I'm going to wait until that happens to strip her down to her frame.

I also need to take another stab at the seat. The cover is bugging the shit out of me. This one won't be wrapped on a stock honda pan. It's just not worth the hassle to get everything right.

Lastly, I got my tach fixed up with the speed indicators. The outermost ring translates the RPM into speed at 25/50/75mph in 6th gear. Ring in from that is 5th, then 4th, etc... I rode it around today and it's surprisingly easy to use. It's nice knowing that I'm going a reasonable speed instead of just guessing.

I was stressing on how to get the graphic in there and then I remembered that stickers are cheap as crap. I ordered five because it was only a few bucks more than one. I laser cut a new base plate because I didn't want the old numbers showing through at night. looks good.

Now that stuff mostly runs, I'm looking forward to dialing this into being a real motorcycle that works and looks like someone older than the age of 14 put it together.
 

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just in case anyone wants to be nervous for my clutch fingers...

I made a brass knuckle clutch lever on the water jet. Now I'm just filing it down to fit the factory lever perch.

video of the process here: {https://www.instagram.com/p/BM7WVLdgW-T/}
 

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So.... I guess I haven't posted anything here for a while:

I bought a HFT ultrasonic cleaner and sound blasted the nasty bits off of my carbs. I picked up a vintage wiring snap connector kit and a 1000ft of colored 16 ga wire.

I played through a couple of iterations on the wiring harness and landed on this with one caveat, Instead of tapping the parking light into the brake bulb, I wired it into the left signal after the flasher so that the ambers light front and back: I don't have the square plug main switch in there, but it ties power to a severed circuit in park and un-severs the circuit in the ignition position. (brown and brown white).

Everything works as it should (I haven't figured out the charge dummy light circuit yet). A few of the connections are a little short or a little long. I'm still playing with how to pull it all together behind the headlight.
 

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I pulled some bits off to try to figure out where the air leak is in the carbs. I’m going to double check pilot jets and air pathways and then recheck the float level. While I had the carbs off I pulled the clutch cable and ran into the problem of the replacement being too short. I pulled off a nut and still couldn’t get it to work. I have a solid understanding of how that mechanism works (rotating the lever forces the 3 bearings out of their pockets exerting linear pressure on the clutch rod).

I have all the bits installed correctly and the bearing is in there. I can set the thing as tight as I like and it won’t ever engage the clutch. I’m not sure what that’s about. Maybe my clutch wasn’t engaging as the bike died. I mostly roll it around in neutral, so I wouldn’t have necessarily noticed. Any thoughts on this?

I can’t get any movement at all out of the clutch lifter rod (lean on it like hell with whatever lever I can manage and it doesn’t budge.)

I just ordered a full service gasket kit from Common Motor. That might be a more immediate need than I’d realized. My guess is that I need to crack the clutch side case. Any other insight into this? I feel supper close and super far away all at once.

On a more fun note, I played with the giant water laser at work and made a shroud out of brass sheet metal to hide my ever growing nest of electronics behind the headlight. I’m happy with how it turned out. I’m not sure why I thought I needed those cut outs around the headlight bolts. They look like poop and don’t appear to do anything functional. I guess I should be more sober when I design stuff on the computer.
 

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Just a thought with your clutch, it's a bit hard to see from your photos but perhaps your knuckleduster clutch lever has reduced the lever travel somewhat.

Great job on the headlight shroud btw, it looks awesome..
 
Pete12 said:
Just a thought with your clutch, it's a bit hard to see from your photos but perhaps your knuckleduster clutch lever has reduced the lever travel somewhat.

Great job on the headlight shroud btw, it looks awesome..

That would be very easy to test for. Thanks for the lead. I was going to mill out a longer version to accommodate for the new headlight controls. It would be good to know it's not the wrong shape before milling the next iteration.

Glad you like the shroud. I wasn't sure how i'd like it. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I'm gonna do another without the crescent around the headlight bolts. It looks like everything else will fit. I might make a black acrylic organization plate for the forward connections. They are a bit crazy at the moment.
 
I got a service gasket kit from Common-Motor and decided to pull the clutch side cover and poke around. The centrifugal filter was pretty clean and everything looked proper, disassembled easily and moved freely where appropriate.

The oil filter screen isn't fully covering the oil feeder tube. It looks like I'm on my own to find a NOS one of those. I can't seem to find any remanufactured or available NOS. Anyone hacked something together down there that they were happy with?

Cheers.
 
is this what your hunting...

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcb360+oil+pickup.TRS2&_nkw=cb360+oil+pickup&_sacat=0
 
irk miller said:
I just bought one on eBay ;)

I think I did too, but we will see when it gets here. I've got a friend in town so the bike is just sitting in pieces in a very messy garage. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I also found out that I've got the CJ360 air boxes on this one. Dunno if the P.O. swapped them or if the bike came that way. Second question, does anyone know if the part numbers for all of the 77s are all going to go away at the end of the year? If so I need to figure out how to download the parts pages for the '77 CJ360 before that happens. I'm also guessing that some place has the older part numbers archived that I don't know about?

Anyway, just realized that my current way of tracking down part numbers is going to go sideways in 2018
 

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irk miller said:
I just bought one on eBay ;)

I've got one, too... for all the difference it makes. My understanding is that the reason Honda made the change from the CB/CL pickup to the CJ style is to prevent oil starvation if the thing is left idling, on the side stand, when it's down a little on oil. However, like I said, I have one; had the opportunity to get it while I had the engine apart so I figured "what the heck" and made the change. From what I've read, the original is up to the task as long as you keep your oil level where it should be. Bottom line: I had the chance to get one so I did, but I wouldn't be losing any sleep if I didn't have it.
 
ridesolo said:
I've got one, too... for all the difference it makes. My understanding is that the reason Honda made the change from the CB/CL pickup to the CJ style is to prevent oil starvation if the thing is left idling, on the side stand, when it's down a little on oil. However, like I said, I have one; had the opportunity to get it while I had the engine apart so I figured "what the heck" and made the change. From what I've read, the original is up to the task as long as you keep your oil level where it should be. Bottom line: I had the chance to get one so I did, but I wouldn't be losing any sleep if I didn't have it.
I mean, I just bought one. You can still get them, but you have to keep up with eBay. They show up, but then go quickly because they're sought after. I bought mine within 20 minutes of it being listed.
 
So, the thing I picked up on ebay was for the CB/CL - nothing fancy like IRK found on the webz. I also managed to isolate my points cover using heat shrink around the bolts, o rings at the heads and two gaskets. No more points grounding on teh cover for this cat.

I also vented the cover so that I won't demag another Charlies Place ignition. For now I'm just fuxing with points until I can be sure it isn't running hotter than normal.

I think the clutch issue was due to the clutch lever. That's really too bad. I have two of those brass knuckle bad boys. I was going to try to sell them to make the money buy another round of brass stock. i guess I could grind off the lever and just have a pair of brass knuckles, but I don't want/need those and don't think I can sell them legally as weapons.

Tomorrow is my no-screen day(mon/wed), so I should have some time to get back to putting all the appropriate pieces in place. I also have to try to build a jig for these Chinese take out planters that I've been thinking about, but I'd also like to see this thing fire up again if I can swing it. I signed up for a motorcycle rider course to ease my wife's concern on riding regularly. I keep pushing the course date back due to a bike that isn't reliable enough to get to the track. Making those calls every 3 weeks to reschedule seem to be good enough motivation that it won't likely sit for another 3 years again this time.
 

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Cursh said:
I also managed to isolate my points cover using heat shrink around the bolts, o rings at the heads and two gaskets. No more points grounding on teh cover for this cat.
Just paint the inside of the cover with liquid electrical tape...

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Ok. Bike runs great. I basically just had to take all the pieces scattered across the floor and put them back onto the bike. Pretty simple, really.

The points didn’t work for shit (which was a bit of a blessing) they weren’t conducting through their contact surfaces. I tried dragging paper and even pulling an emery board through there and nothing. No idea. Gapped and timed correctly. No spark. While trying to track that situation down I pulled the clutch cover, cleaned the oil centrifuge, found that the pump filter screen had a hole in it, and replaced everything that looked like it could use a bit of love.

The clutch not working was 100% improper adjustment due to a weirdly lengthens clutch cable. I sliced a bit of housing off and now have something that is within the adjustable range. The brass knuckle lever works fine. My only concern is that the clutch doesn’t really slip that much. Bike is hard to roll with the clutch fully disengaged. Anyone?

Charlie’s place sent out a new magnet for the ignition. Damn I love that ignition. I hope it can handle the Arizona summers. Hogging out the points cover should help. Maybe I just leave it off in the summer. Maybe I can put my own damn replacement magnets in it when it fails. Maybe the bike isn’t overheating anymore. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I totally biffed the gasket install and have another on the way. I tore the shot out of that gasket In try me to install it. Oh well.

Lastly the dual relays didn’t quite cut it. I’ve got a single relay with two throws that might do thee trick. For now I’m just going to ride the sucker and tear into the blown head (fingers crossed) on the Ascot.

It only took me 8 years to get this thing running
 
Cursh said:
The clutch not working was 100% improper adjustment due to a weirdly lengthens clutch cable. I sliced a bit of housing off and now have something that is within the adjustable range. The brass knuckle lever works fine. My only concern is that the clutch doesn’t really slip that much. Bike is hard to roll with the clutch fully disengaged. Anyone?

Congrats on have a runner. Good feeling. :)

For the quoted section, that's not an uncommon problem to have. It should (mostly) go away when the engine warms up. If not, you may have a little more adjustment to do.
 
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