'81 SR250 "soft build" - Little Pete

SurferMO said:
I know this is an old post but I'm working on an sr250 and I'm trying to figure out how to install this same speedo on mine. Can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be great
Need more info on your difficulties. Connecting speedo cable? Constructing mounting plate? Connecting electrical?
 
SurferMO said:
I know this is an old post but I'm working on an sr250 and I'm trying to figure out how to install this same speedo on mine. Can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be great

Got your PM- sounds like it's the wiring for the indicator lights you're trying to figure out? I'll try to answer it here.

Are you still using your stock wiring harness?

The speedo has five lights (four indicators and a backlight), each with two wires, one (+) and one (-). All of the (+) need to go to the right wires on the harness, and all of the (-) go to ground expect for the neutral light's (-)

One of those indicators is for oil, but I used it as a left turn indicator since the sr250 doesn't have an oil sensor (typically you'd have one indicator showing that either of your signals is on).

You need a wiring diagram to figure out what wires on the harness you'll need to run to.

High-beam indicator
Blue -> Yellow wire on the headlight
Blue/Blk -> Grnd
Neutral Light
Green -> Lt Brown
Green/Blk -> Lt Blue (sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between blue and lt blue on the 250... watch out)
Left Indicator (repurposed oil light)
Red -> Drk Brown
Reb/Blk -> Grnd
Right Indicator
Yellow -> Green
Yellow/Blk -> Grnd
Backlight
Pink (or orange) -> Blue
Blk -> Grnd

This is how to wire if for the oil light to act as a left turn indicator. If you'd rather only use the one general turn indicator light, then run the yellow wire from the speedo to both the green and dark brown wires, with yellow/blk still going to ground. Tape off the red wires from the speedo. (Your oil light would be useless this way.)

Hope that helps. Here's the diagrams for both if you'd like to make sense of it for yerself.
 

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bud. said:
This is how to wire if for the oil light to act as a left turn indicator. If you'd rather only use the one general turn indicator light, then run the yellow wire from the speedo to both the green and dark brown wires, with yellow/blk still going to ground. Tape off the red wires from the speedo. (Your oil light would be useless this way.)

^^^^^^^
Well fuck... that part is bullshit. You would definitely need diodes on those wires to keep the two circuits from crossing. LEDs don't take much juice, so I think just small cheapo diodes would do the trick... but that's about the extent of my knowledge with that shit.

Or you can just use the oil light as a left turn indicator light and not have to worry about all that. Up to you.
 
What is the light blue/sky blue wire? Whenever I touch it to the ground wire "black" it powers the starter. Also whenever I touch it to any of the other wires it powers whatever that wire goes to.
 
From the mini speedo I have all the ground wires connected together and plugged into the black ground wire from the harness.
 
If you look at the wiring diagram, the lt blue wire is essentially a negative lead that runs through the neutral switch before grounding... and is also tied into the safety relay (as is the red/wht wire from the starter solenoid).

I'm not positive why touching the lt blue wire to the ground would trip the starter switch, but I will encourage you to not test out what happens when you touch different wires together if you're not sure if they should or not... that's a great way to short something out and fry it. I find this shit pretty difficult to grasp, but spending some quality time getting familiar with your wiring diagram will help you to make some sense of things. Helps me a lot at least.
 
FOR SALE

Little Pete is up for sale!

Next post for details....
 

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DTT listing - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=65944.new#new
Craigslist listing - http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/mcy/5021800572.html
KSL listing - http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=34614038&cat=&lpid=&search=little%20pete&ad_cid=1

__________________

$1200 OBO - Salt Lake City, UT

Up for sale is “Little Pete”… my 1981 Yamaha SR250 built into a cafe/tracker inspired fun machine. This is a super fun little bike that you can do anything with. He’s great for anything from cruising town and commuting to taking you out moto-camping in the Wasatch or Uintas. It’s nice having such a light bike- maneuvering is easy and accelerating from stops is a blast. I’ve had him comfortably cruising at 65-70 on back-highways… but I’m not a freeway guy so I usually avoid those. (PO used to commute from Sandy to DT SLC on the freeway with him regularly though.)

Video of Pete running - http://youtu.be/at8KMojVTkc

DTT Thread - http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=51737.45

I bought the bike in Jan 2013 from a guy who had been using it as a commuter almost daily. The odometer was frozen upon purchase (it has a new speedo/odo now), so I’m not sure of the overall mileage. I slowly rebuilt it over the summer of 2013 while riding it throughout the rebuild, and rode it for commuting almost daily up to this winter. I wish I could keep this bike, as it’s a total blast to ride around, but I am traveling a ton this summer and moving east for grad school in the fall.

Pete is currently not running. I would let him run and warm up weekly throughout the winter, but he was running rough and rich near the end of winter. I’ve been traveling so much that I haven’t had the time to clean the carbs and get him running again for the spring- but I’m sure that’s all that’s keeping him from running.

What’s been done:
-new Bridgestone Spitfire tires put on in 2013 ($400’s of tire) - they are in fantastic condition (still have receipt from Wright’s Motorcycle Parts) (same tires that MotoMucci put on their sr250 - http://www.bikeexif.com/yamaha-sr250-moto-mucci)
-new sealed Ballistic EVO2 8-cell Lithium Ferrous Phosphate battery ($160’s of battery - http://www.ballisticparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=425 for more details)
-custom battery box made from vintage First-Aid kit
-brand new coil
-replaced all engine case bolts with new stainless steel hex bolts
-all new gaskets, plug, boot
-rebuilt clutch
-rebuilt/rejetted carbs
-upgrade to UNI foam air filter (not a pod!)
-rebuilt petcock
-new ‘shorty’ exhaust with extra baffles
-new 1” superbike bars (has new flat drag bars in the photos, these will also come with the bike if you’d like them)
-new grips
-new turn signals
-new tail light
-new mini speedo/odo/indicator lights
-added kickstarter
-brown leather brat/tracker style seat
-cut down fenders
-tank stripped, repainted, and left to patina (my plan was to have some custom lettering done, then clear coat over the white paint, patina, and lettering)
-new rear shocks – replaced by PO

Extras: (will come included with purchase)
-SR250 Service Manual
-SR250 Parts Diagram Book
-blown-up wiring diagram that’s easier to read
-Flat drag bars
-new rear sprocket (current one is in great shape)
-new ignition switch (I was planning on installing a 2nd switch on the battery box for security)
-new boot covers for front forks
-new Kohler Voltage Regulator/Rectifier for future upgrade (current reg/rec is fine - http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/50-electrical-discussion/14014-cheap-regulator-rectifier-upgrade.html for more info on the Kohler upgrade)
-lots of gasket material
-original Yamaha travel tool kit
-bottle of fuel stabilizer (I use this for winter storage)
-K&N filter oil
-can of carb cleaner
-2 bottles of nice chain wax (Maxima)
-extra turn signals
-extra Yamaha new-old-stock replacement parts (oil cap, carb bolts, etc. – this stuff breaks down over time, so it’s nice to have stock-fitting replacements)
-extra fuel line and an in-line filter

And of course I have the Title in hand. (It is also currently registered and insured.)

After the original purchasing price, I’ve dumped at least $2,000 into Pete in parts alone. I also had a professional mechanic check my work periodically along the way. I would like to recoop a bit of the money I put into all the nice parts, so I am not very willing to negotiate the price too much. No trades.

Feel free to call, text, or email. I will update this post once sold.
Calls and texts preferred.
Bud T – 909.499.5038 – buddytym@gmail.com
 
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