RD350 Brat/Cafe thing
- Thread starter raptormeat
- Start date
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
I think this is a Mono swingarm? i dont know what the extra metal part extension is for. ???
Includes the two side collars and the middle collar, and two original bushings if you want them, theyre in good condition. no thrust washers.
WHAT ARE THESE!? I think theyre for the weird exhaust i have, but idk. theyre too heavy for me. I prob fab sheet metal exhaust mounts for the expansion chamber exhaust.
I have the heads and cylinders for this. One has a broken exhaust stud however. Ill prob part this out on ebay, shipping it seems a hassle.
Mikuni 28s. I need the throttle cable receiver part sticking out of it and the linkage tube, but that's it.. I believe one is missing the main jet cover (bottom part that screws in)
I saw this at CVS today and thought you gents would enjoy it. I wonder what would happen if I ate 8 of them at once, or emptied 5 of them into my bosses coffee.
I am located in Truckee, CA about 2.5 hours east of the bay up in Tahoe.
Includes the two side collars and the middle collar, and two original bushings if you want them, theyre in good condition. no thrust washers.
WHAT ARE THESE!? I think theyre for the weird exhaust i have, but idk. theyre too heavy for me. I prob fab sheet metal exhaust mounts for the expansion chamber exhaust.
I have the heads and cylinders for this. One has a broken exhaust stud however. Ill prob part this out on ebay, shipping it seems a hassle.
Mikuni 28s. I need the throttle cable receiver part sticking out of it and the linkage tube, but that's it.. I believe one is missing the main jet cover (bottom part that screws in)
I saw this at CVS today and thought you gents would enjoy it. I wonder what would happen if I ate 8 of them at once, or emptied 5 of them into my bosses coffee.
I am located in Truckee, CA about 2.5 hours east of the bay up in Tahoe.
raptormeat said:I think this is a Mono swingarm? i dont know what the extra metal part extension is for. ???
Includes the two side collars and the middle collar, and two original bushings if you want them, theyre in good condition. no thrust washers.
That is the brake torque arm for the rear disk brake caliper on an RD400
WHAT ARE THESE!? I think they're for the weird exhaust i have, but idk. theyre too heavy for me. I prob fab sheet metal exhaust mounts for the expansion chamber exhaust.
Those are Read Titan or Dunstall style rear set brackets. They clamp around the frame to move the footpegs back.
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
Im sorry, and maybe Im just used to 4 strokes, but I'm looking for a CHEAP dial gauge that'll work for the aircooled RDs. Im seeing 70 bucks a pop on ebay? To time my CB360 I needed a $5 timing light and a $5 pair of feeler gauges. What gives gents?
Also, I've read that the standard BTDC is 2mm, but 1.8mm is recommended? That is, to retard the timing a bit? (Wait .2mm longer for the piston to rise before firing) I thought when the engines RPMs are getting higher you want to advance the timing? to give the gas more time to fully detonate? Can someone take me to school briefly on this?
Also, I've read that the standard BTDC is 2mm, but 1.8mm is recommended? That is, to retard the timing a bit? (Wait .2mm longer for the piston to rise before firing) I thought when the engines RPMs are getting higher you want to advance the timing? to give the gas more time to fully detonate? Can someone take me to school briefly on this?
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
Everything is set, I just cant get this lovely lady to start. Id like to take her out to dinner, but she doesnt want to.
Good battery, new plugs, have spark at the right time on the correct cylinder. No idea if im missing something? Im at 6000 feet to maybe its too rich right off the bat?
hid the ignition switch under the tank..
Mikes XS mini gauges, wish they were the same color, but i dont feel like opening them up right now.
look at dat ass
Rectifier is mounted to the seatpan, I cut off the stock battery support and dropped it 2 inches to make the brat seat possible. the battery now sits where the regulator usually is. Also am still using the oil pump and cut a circle in the seatpan to accomodate the filler cap.
NOW.. if only i could get her to stat, what am i missing here? Floats are at 15mm, timing is 1.9 BTDC, compression 90psi, rebuilt carbs with all new jets, Banshee crossover tube, H4 Headlight, but I cant get her to light up....
Good battery, new plugs, have spark at the right time on the correct cylinder. No idea if im missing something? Im at 6000 feet to maybe its too rich right off the bat?
hid the ignition switch under the tank..
Mikes XS mini gauges, wish they were the same color, but i dont feel like opening them up right now.
look at dat ass
Rectifier is mounted to the seatpan, I cut off the stock battery support and dropped it 2 inches to make the brat seat possible. the battery now sits where the regulator usually is. Also am still using the oil pump and cut a circle in the seatpan to accomodate the filler cap.
NOW.. if only i could get her to stat, what am i missing here? Floats are at 15mm, timing is 1.9 BTDC, compression 90psi, rebuilt carbs with all new jets, Banshee crossover tube, H4 Headlight, but I cant get her to light up....
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
raptormeat said:
Easy one. Two strokes require the timing to be very accurate to make pwoer without melting. The reason that many people suggest retarding timing slightly is because modern gas is so poor. We need to avoid detonation at all costs on any motor but more so with a 2 stroke.
As revs rise, the exhaust temperature rises too and that raises combustion temperature which makes combustion speed faster, so as a high performance 2 strokes revs up, we retard timing to maintain peak pressure at around 14 degrees ATDC. On old bikes like the RD we set the timing at the value it needs to be at high revs and put up with less than perfect timing at lower revs.
With a fully programmable ignition we could dial in more advance at lower speeds and pull timing out as revs rise. But that's a story for another night
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
thanks Teazer. hope that e-iggy is finding you well.
if anyone is curious the paint used is about 2 cans of this.
if anyone is curious the paint used is about 2 cans of this.
jamiebridge
New Member
Hello,
Liking the build, will keep following, i chatted with you on instagram previously about the seat, just a quick question. I am doing a similar build at the moment, whats the clearance like at the rear between the seat and rear tyre? What size is your rear tyre 110 / 90 / 18? I welded a loop onto the rear and mine looks very tight.. although i will be running slightly longer shocks.
Thanks
Liking the build, will keep following, i chatted with you on instagram previously about the seat, just a quick question. I am doing a similar build at the moment, whats the clearance like at the rear between the seat and rear tyre? What size is your rear tyre 110 / 90 / 18? I welded a loop onto the rear and mine looks very tight.. although i will be running slightly longer shocks.
Thanks
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
oh nice man. welcome. this build is pretty much all done, ill try and get some more pics. the tires are both 3.5-18 which is 100/90-18 theres plenty of clearance in the rear, probably 4-5 inches. i dont have a rear loop, but the seat pan extends all the way back and i havent had the tire touch at all. cheers.
jamiebridge
New Member
raptormeat said:
Sweet, would love to see some more pics. Sounds good, i have been panicking that i would hit a bump in the road at speed it would catch the rear loop and i would end up in a ditch :-\ because with the loop welded on mine is another inch lower at the rear than yours, but the new shocks i have on order are an inch higher than standard, so if yours is ok i shouldn't need tho worry
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
check out the emblem gold detailing, they were chipped and faded anyway, so i sprayed them and dabbed on some gold lines. alsoyou can get white and black decal tape super cheap, not exactly the same as the oil tank lines, but super close, i shoulda been more scrupulous
jamiebridge
New Member
looks nice man! get her on premix
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
The bent mount in the frame is actually a hole for the crankcase breather tube to route through. Only took me to finish the entire thing to figure that out.matthryan said:
